{"id":9567,"date":"2017-12-08T18:52:51","date_gmt":"2017-12-08T15:52:51","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.hayrettinkagnici.com\/?p=9567"},"modified":"2017-12-12T21:20:53","modified_gmt":"2017-12-12T18:20:53","slug":"pakistan-islam-cumhuriyeti","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/hayrettinkagnici.com\/tr\/pakistan-islam-cumhuriyeti\/","title":{"rendered":"Pakistan \u0130slam Cumhuriyeti"},"content":{"rendered":"

\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

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200 milyon n\u00fcfus ve 796 km\u00b2 y\u00fcz\u00f6l\u00e7\u00fcm\u00fc olan, bize yak\u0131n gibi ama hakk\u0131nda fazla bir bilgimiz olmayan Pakistan \u0130slam Cumhuriyeti; g\u00f6relim bakal\u0131m buralarda d\u00fcnya nas\u0131l d\u00f6n\u00fcyormu\u015f diye \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131k yola.<\/p>\n

Ana k\u0131ta Hindistan da 1001\u2019de Gazzeli Mahmut\u2019la ba\u015flayan M\u00fcsl\u00fcman egemenli\u011fi 1206-1483 y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131nda Memluklar\u2019la devam etmi\u015f, 1526\u2019da da Bab\u00fcr \u015eah ile M\u00fcsl\u00fcman Mo\u011follar\u0131n egemenli\u011fi alt\u0131na girmi\u015f. B\u00f6lge, Fransa ile \u0130ngiltere aras\u0131ndaki 7 y\u0131l sava\u015flar\u0131 sonras\u0131nda 1773 y\u0131l\u0131ndan itibaren \u0130ngilizlerin kontrol\u00fcne ge\u00e7mi\u015f ve bu tarihten itibaren de, Hindistan, Banglade\u015f, Burma, Afganistan, Nepal, Singapur ve Malezya \u00fclkelerini i\u00e7ine alan bu s\u00f6m\u00fcrge \u00fclkelerin ba\u015f\u0131na da \u0130mparator olarak \u0130ngiliz Kraliyeti ad\u0131na onun atad\u0131\u011f\u0131 bir genel vali getirilmi\u015f.<\/p>\n

Bu s\u00fcre\u00e7te, a\u011f\u0131rl\u0131kl\u0131 olarak Hindular \u0130ngilizlerin kurdu\u011fu e\u011fitim okullar\u0131nda e\u011fitim alm\u0131\u015f zaman i\u00e7erisinde y\u00f6netim kademesinde yer almaya ba\u015flam\u0131\u015f. Milliyet\u00e7ili duygular i\u00e7inde olan Hindular kendi partilerini kurar ve 1906 y\u0131l\u0131nda da ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131z olmay\u0131 isterler. Bu tarihlerde Hintli M\u00fcsl\u00fcmanlar da kendi partilerini kurarak Hindular ile birlikte ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131k m\u00fccadelesin ba\u015flat\u0131rlar. Muhammed Ali Cinnah her iki topluluk ad\u0131na \u0130ngilizlerle g\u00f6r\u00fc\u015fmeleri y\u00fcr\u00fct\u00fcr ancak zaman i\u00e7erisinde Hindular ile M\u00fcsl\u00fcmanlar aras\u0131ndaki geli\u015fen fikir ayr\u0131l\u0131klar\u0131 1930 lar\u0131n sonunda uzla\u015fmazl\u0131k noktas\u0131na gelir. Sonu\u00e7 olarak, Muhammed Ali Cinnah\u2019\u0131n y\u00f6netiminde olan M\u00fcsl\u00fcmanlar 1940 y\u0131l\u0131nda Hindistan topraklar\u0131n\u0131n bat\u0131s\u0131nda ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131z Pakistan devletini kurmaya karar verirler ve ad\u0131n\u0131 da, temiz \u00fclke anlam\u0131na gelen Pencap, Afgan, Ke\u015fmir, \u0130slam ve Belucistan eyaletlerinin ba\u015f harfleri olan PAK\u0130STAN olarak kabul ederler.<\/p>\n

    \n
  1. D\u00fcnya sava\u015f\u0131nda kendi dertlerine d\u00fc\u015fen \u0130ngilizler 1947 y\u0131l\u0131nda Hindistan\u2019\u0131n ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 tan\u0131r ve bu tarihten itibaren Hindistan ve Pakistan\u2019\u0131 iki ayr\u0131 ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131z devlet olarak ilan eder.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

    Sabaha kar\u015f\u0131 erken bir saate Pakistan’\u0131n ba\u015f \u015fehri islamabad\u2019a gelince yapacak bir \u015fey olmuyor, i\u015fleri biraz hafiften al\u0131p vakit dolduruyoruz. G\u00fcn a\u011faramaya ba\u015flay\u0131nca kahvalt\u0131 sonras\u0131 d\u00fc\u015ft\u00fck yollara. Biraz yol sorarak, biraz kaybolarak \u00fc\u00e7 saatten fazla bir s\u00fcrede Unesco D\u00fcnya Miras listesinde olan Tahti Bahi’ye geldik. Rehberimizde buralara biraz yabanc\u0131 gibi.. Asl\u0131nda yolun uzamas\u0131 iyi oldu, hafiften kestirme f\u0131rsat\u0131 bulduk. 1.y\u00fczy\u0131l\u0131n en \u00f6nemli Budist manast\u0131r\u0131 olup, ad\u0131n\u0131, su kayna\u011f\u0131n\u0131n \u00fcst\u00fcne in\u015fa edildi\u011fi i\u00e7in kayna\u011f\u0131n taht\u0131 anlam\u0131na gelen Taht-\u0131 Bahi olarak alm\u0131\u015f. Asl\u0131nda \u00f6nemli bir yer, Buda\u2019n\u0131n \u00e7ok farkl\u0131 imajlarda heykelleri bulunmu\u015f. Bu kadar \u00f6nemli bir yer daha bak\u0131m ve kontrol alt\u0131nda olmal\u0131, \u00e7oluk \u00e7ocuk her \u015feyin tepesinde, 50 sene sonra \u00e7ok bir \u015fey kalmayabilir. \u0130lk g\u00fcn ilgi b\u00fcy\u00fck, insanlar bizi g\u00f6r\u00fcnce etraf\u0131n\u0131zda, uzayl\u0131 gibi kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131kl\u0131 bak\u0131\u015f\u0131yoruz. \u00a0Erkek k\u0131sm\u0131ndan gelen “selam\u00fcn aleyk\u00fcm\u201d a kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131k \u201caleyk\u00fcm selam\u201d sihirli kelimelerinden sonra ba\u015flayan heyecan ve bitmeyen birlikte resim \u00e7ektirme istekleri. \u00a0Bilinsin ki daha ilk g\u00fcnden bu alem de \u00e7ok me\u015fhur olduk. Hem Cumartesi hem de A\u015fura bayram\u0131 olunca bir\u00e7ok yer kapal\u0131, Sonunda \u00f6\u011fle yeme\u011fi i\u00e7in bir yer bulduk, \u00f6nce biraz m\u0131r\u0131ldand\u0131k ama hepimiz sa\u011flam t\u0131k\u0131nd\u0131k, yemekler g\u00fczeldi do\u011frusu.<\/p>\n

    Buradan gene Unesco D\u00fcnya Miras\u0131 listesinde olan Taxila Arkeolojik alan\u0131 ve m\u00fczesine gidiyoruz. M\u00fczede en fazla dikkatimi \u00e7eken, Budha’n\u0131n de\u011fi\u015fik k\u0131yafetli ve farkl\u0131 imajlarda heykelleri oldu. Yani \u00c7in k\u0131yafeti ile, Roma k\u0131yafeti ile, Yunan Helenistik k\u0131yafeti ile gibi.. \u015eu anlama gelir, ad\u0131 ge\u00e7en bu milletler buralarda uzun y\u0131llar h\u00fck\u00fcm s\u00fcrm\u00fc\u015f, k\u00fclt\u00fcrel izlerini b\u0131rakm\u0131\u015flar. D\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnebiliyor musunuz, Roma k\u0131yafetli bir Budha.. Demek ki bu co\u011frafya, bir\u00e7ok medeniyetlere ev sahipli\u011fi yapm\u0131\u015f. D\u00fcnya, ne g\u00fcnler g\u00f6rm\u00fc\u015f neler…<\/p>\n

    G\u00fczel bir m\u00fcze, ilgin\u00e7 eserler var. Taxila, M\u00d6 2. Y\u00fczy\u0131llardan itibaren \u00f6nemli yerle\u015fim yerlerinden biri ve MS 2. y\u00fczy\u0131llara kadar da en b\u00fcy\u00fck Budizm e\u011fitim merkezi olmu\u015f. Buras\u0131 tarihin \u00f6nemli yerlerden biri, \u00e7ok imparatorluklar ge\u00e7mi\u015f, \u00e7ok tarih var burada.<\/p>\n

    Uzun bir g\u00fcn oldu gece yar\u0131s\u0131ndan beri sokaklarday\u0131z, art\u0131k zorlanmalar ba\u015flad\u0131, otele ve dinlenme zaman\u0131,<\/p>\n

    **<\/p>\n

    G\u00fczel dinlendikten sonra g\u00fcn g\u00fczel ba\u015flad\u0131. \u0130lk olarak Unesco D\u00fcnya Miras\u0131 aday\u0131 Katas\u00a0Raj Mabedlerine gidiyoruz.<\/p>\n

    Katas Raj, farkl\u0131 zamanlarda yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f Satgraha ad\u0131 verilen Hindu tap\u0131naklar\u0131n\u0131m bulundu\u011fu alan. En eski tap\u0131nak MS 6. y\u00fczy\u0131la kadar uzanmaktad\u0131r. Katas Raj Hindu tap\u0131naklar\u0131 d\u00fcnya \u00e7ap\u0131nda \u00fcnl\u00fc ve \u00e7ok say\u0131da insan bu tap\u0131naklar\u0131 her y\u0131l dini ibadet ve ayinleri i\u00e7in ziyaret ediyor. Tap\u0131naklar\u0131n bulundu\u011fu g\u00f6let, Hindular aras\u0131nda kutsal say\u0131l\u0131yor, \u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc Shiva’n\u0131n g\u00f6zya\u015flar\u0131 ile dolup ta\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131na ve bu g\u00f6lette banyo yap\u0131nca g\u00fcnahlar\u0131ndan ar\u0131nacaklar\u0131na inan\u0131yorlar. Yani buras\u0131 Pakistan\u2019daki \u00f6nemli ha\u00e7 alanlar\u0131ndan biri olmu\u015f ve biz de bir defa daha hac\u0131 olduk, g\u00fcnahlar azald\u0131.<\/p>\n

    Uzun ve bozuk bir yolun sonunda Unesco D\u00fcnya Miras listesinde olan Rohtas Kalelerine gelebildik.
    \nStratejik bir konumda bulunan Rohtas Fort (Rohtas Kalesi), Bab\u00fcr imparatoru H\u00fcmayun’un 1541 y\u0131l\u0131nda yenilmesini takiben b\u00fcy\u00fck Afgan kral\u0131 \u015eer \u015eah Suri taraf\u0131ndan, son derece sa\u011flam kal\u0131n duvarlar\u0131 olan her t\u00fcrl\u00fc sald\u0131r\u0131ya kar\u015f\u0131 koyabilecek \u015fekilde yapt\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f bir kale. Hi\u00e7bir d\u00f6nemde d\u00fc\u015fman sald\u0131r\u0131lar\u0131na yenik d\u00fc\u015fmemi\u015f ve bug\u00fcne kadar da sa\u011flam bir \u015fekilde ayakta kalm\u0131\u015f olan Rohtas Kaleleri, Orta ve G\u00fcney Asya’daki erken \u0130slami d\u00f6nem askeri mimarisini yans\u0131tan \u00f6nemli \u00f6rneklerden biridir.<\/p>\n

    Gene ayn\u0131 tozlu bozuk yoldan d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015fe ge\u00e7tik. Bu g\u00fcn\u00fcde tamamlad\u0131k, yorucu ama g\u00fczel bir g\u00fcnd\u00fc..<\/p>\n

    **<\/p>\n

    *Bug\u00fcn \u0130slamabad \u015fehir turu. \u00d6nce, me\u015fhur Pakistan ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131k an\u0131t\u0131n\u0131 ziyaret ediyoruz. D\u00f6rt yaprakl\u0131 a\u00e7\u0131lan \u00e7i\u00e7ek gibi, her bir yapra\u011f\u0131 Pakistan\u2019\u0131n eyaletlerini temsil ediyor ve buralar\u0131n tarihini anlat\u0131yor. G\u00fczel ve anlaml\u0131 bir \u00f6zg\u00fcrl\u00fck an\u0131t\u0131.<\/p>\n

    Pakistan, 1947 y\u0131l\u0131nda ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131\u011f\u0131 al\u0131nca ba\u015f \u015fehir kurma d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcncesi ortaya \u00e7\u0131kar ve \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmalar ba\u015flar.\u00a0 Sonunda yer olarak Said-Pur k\u00f6y\u00fc yak\u0131nlar\u0131nda \u201c\u0130slam-i \u015fehir\u201d anlam\u0131na gelen \u0130slamabad diye bir ba\u015f \u015fehir yaratma projesi ba\u015flat\u0131l\u0131r. Modern ve \u015fehircilik kurallar\u0131na uygun olmas\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fclen bu kent i\u00e7in, ba\u015f \u015fehir olma ko\u015fulu olan yasama, y\u00fcr\u00fctme ve yarg\u0131 binalar\u0131n\u0131n yerleri tespit edilmi\u015f, parlamento binalar\u0131, el\u00e7ilikler i\u00e7in yerler belirlenmi\u015f, \u00a0kollar\u0131 s\u0131vam\u0131\u015flar ve yap\u0131m\u0131na ba\u015flam\u0131\u015flar. Bug\u00fcn bunlar\u0131n \u00e7o\u011fu tamamlanm\u0131\u015f. \u00a0\u0130\u015fte bizde bu \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmalar\u0131n ba\u015flat\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 Said-Pur k\u00f6y\u00fcne geldik. Hala eski ilk g\u00fcnlerinde ki bir k\u00f6y gibi bak\u0131ms\u0131z ve yorgun.. G\u00fczel insanlarla kar\u015f\u0131la\u015ft\u0131k, evlerine davet ettiler foto\u011fraflar \u00e7ektirdik. Ekim ay\u0131n\u0131n ba\u015f\u0131nday\u0131z, hava 35 derecenin \u00fczerinde.<\/p>\n

    Hafif bir mola sonras\u0131 d\u00fcnyan\u0131n en g\u00f6zde camilerinden biri olan Faysal Camii\u2019ne geldik. Hani Ankara eski belediye ba\u015fkan\u0131 Mimar Vedat Dalokay\u2019\u0131n Ankara i\u00e7in \u00e7izdi\u011fi sonra yap\u0131m\u0131ndan vazge\u00e7ildi\u011fi camii var ya, i\u015fte o proje burada birincilik alarak ba\u011f\u0131\u015f\u00e7\u0131s\u0131 Suudi Arabistan kral\u0131 Faysal ad\u0131na burada yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Cami avlusunun giri\u015finde ayakkab\u0131lar teslim, yal\u0131n ayak devam. 5.000 m\u00b2 alan \u00fczerinde 74.000 ki\u015filik ger\u00e7ekten kocaman bir camii. Haz\u0131rland\u0131k i\u00e7eriye girece\u011fiz ama kap\u0131 duvar. Sadece namaz vakitlerinde a\u00e7\u0131k oluyormu\u015f. Etrafta vakit ge\u00e7iriyoruz,\u00a0foto\u011fraf i\u00e7in epey malzeme var asl\u0131nda. Biz insanlar\u0131, insanlar da bizi \u00e7ekiyor, birlikte selfie yap\u0131yor ge\u00e7inip gidiyoruz. ilgi b\u00fcy\u00fck. Kad\u0131nlar bizi \u00e7ekiyor biz onlar\u0131 \u00e7ekelim, olmaz g\u00fcnah. Neyse vakti zaman\u0131 geldi girece\u011fiz i\u00e7eriye ama foto\u011fraf makinas\u0131 yasak. Hani selam\u00fcnaleyk\u00fcm, biz din karde\u015fi falan olmad\u0131. Makinalar\u0131 teslim ettik girdik i\u00e7eriye, caminin i\u00e7i b\u00fcy\u00fck bir mekan ve ortada kolon yok kocaman temiz bir alan, \u0131\u015f\u0131k, estetik, fonksiyonlar a\u00e7\u0131s\u0131ndan muhte\u015fem. M\u00fchendislik olarak ger\u00e7ekten g\u00fczel \u00e7\u00f6z\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f. Klasik cami konsepti ile ilgisi yok modern \u00e7izgili bir proje.<\/p>\n

    Bakanl\u0131klar, parlamento, el\u00e7ilikler yarg\u0131 mahkemeleri gibi hepsinin bir arada oldu\u011fu diplomatik b\u00f6lgeye gidiyoruz. Yolda g\u00fcvenlik kontrol, neden niye geldiniz gibi sorgulardan sonra bizi g\u00fcvenilir buldular da b\u00f6lgeye girebildik. D\u00fczg\u00fcn bak\u0131ml\u0131 bir b\u00f6lge, Hava s\u0131cak, d\u0131\u015far\u0131da g\u00fcne\u015f ac\u0131t\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

    Monal tepesine gidiyoruz, ak\u015fam yeme\u011finde buraday\u0131z. Y\u00fcksek bir tepenin \u00fczerinde Islamabad ayaklar alt\u0131nda g\u00fczel bir manzara. Monal restoran da g\u00fczel yemekler ve \u015ferbet ile g\u00fcn\u00fc noktalad\u0131k.<\/p>\n

    **<\/p>\n

    G\u00fcne Pakistan Heritage Museum, Pakistan k\u00fclt\u00fcr m\u00fczesi ile ba\u015fl\u0131yoruz. Burada g\u00f6r\u00fclmesi gereken yerlerden biri. Bu topraklarda binlerce y\u0131l \u00f6ncesinde ya\u015fam\u0131\u015f, Mehrgarh medeniyeti, \u0130ndus Vadisi medeniyeti, Gandhara medeniyeti, \u0130slam medeniyeti gibi bir\u00e7ok medeniyetler\u00a0ve k\u00fclt\u00fcrleri hakk\u0131nda bilgiler. Ya\u015famlar\u0131, m\u00fczikleri, aile hayatlar\u0131, \u00e7iniler, hal\u0131lar, seramikler .. ger\u00e7ekten \u00e7ok g\u00fczel m\u00fcze, tam g\u00fcnden \u00f6nce \u00e7\u0131kamazs\u0131n\u0131z. Burada b\u00f6yle bir yer beklemezsiniz.<\/p>\n

    Bug\u00fcn buradan ayr\u0131l\u0131p, ak\u015fama Lahor da kalmay\u0131 planl\u0131yoruz. B\u00fct\u00fcn g\u00fcn yolday\u0131z, hava s\u0131cak. Yolumuzun \u00fczerinde Unesco d\u00fcnya miras aday\u0131 Khewra tuz madenini gidiyoruz. Geldik madene, \u00f6yle hadi girelim olmuyor! Anlatacaks\u0131n \u00f6nce, nereden geliyorsun, kimlerdensin, isimler, pasaport numaralar\u0131, hepsi elle yaz\u0131larak tek tek kay\u0131t alt\u0131nda,\u00a0giri\u015f paralar\u0131 falan hey \u015fey tamam. Buras\u0131 d\u00fcnyan\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck tuz madenlerinden biri. Ray \u00fcst\u00fcnde y\u00fcr\u00fcyen ara\u00e7lar ile bir s\u00fcre gittikten sonra madenin i\u00e7ine kadar girdik. K\u00f6m\u00fcr madeni gibi galeriler a\u00e7\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. De\u011fi\u015fik renklerde b\u00fcy\u00fck kayalar halinde tuzlar. 800 milyon y\u0131l \u00f6nce tektonik hareketler sonucu okyanusun bir b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fc denizden ayr\u0131larak da\u011flar\u0131n kayalar\u0131n aras\u0131nda s\u0131k\u0131\u015f\u0131r kal\u0131r. Y\u00fcz y\u0131llar i\u00e7inde y\u00fcksek bas\u0131n\u00e7 alt\u0131nda kalan sular\u0131n i\u00e7indeki mineraller zamanla tuza d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015fm\u00fc\u015f ve i\u00e7indeki planktonlar nedeni ile de\u011fi\u015fik renkler alm\u0131\u015flar, rengarenk. Hele \u0131\u015f\u0131k alt\u0131nda harika g\u00f6z\u00fck\u00fcyor. Toplam da 300 km uzunlu\u011fundaki galerilerin i\u00e7indeyiz, her taraf\u0131m\u0131z hafif saydam kayalar halinde tuz bloklar\u0131. Binlerce y\u0131ldan beri tuz \u00fcretimi yap\u0131l\u0131yor, daha 220 milyon ton rezerv varm\u0131\u015f. Yani binlerce sene daha yeter, tuz bitecek diye meraklanmay\u0131n!. Tuzlar\u0131, mermer bloklar\u0131 gibi b\u00fcy\u00fck par\u00e7alar halinde \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131yorlar. \u00a0Eee bu kadar \u00e7ok olunca adamlar tuz bloklar\u0131ndan bina, kule, minare bile yapm\u0131\u015flar ve gece \u0131\u015f\u0131kland\u0131r\u0131yorlar. Her taraf tuzdan hediyelik e\u015fyalar. Me\u015fhur Himalaya tuzu diye bilinen tuz bunlar, buradan d\u00fcnyaya sat\u0131l\u0131yor. Neden Himalaya tuzu dendi\u011fini \u00f6\u011frenemedik. Hani hem sa\u011fl\u0131kl\u0131 hem de hava olsun diye kulland\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z Himalaya tuzlar\u0131 Pakistan’da \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yormu\u015f. Ben ald\u0131m, koca bir torba 1,5 TL.<\/p>\n

    \u00c7\u0131k\u0131\u015fta gene ayn\u0131 manzara etraf\u0131n\u0131zda bizlerle foto\u011fraf \u00e7ektirmek isteyen bir s\u00fcr\u00fc \u00e7oluk \u00e7ocuk. K\u0131rm\u0131yorum hepsi ile \u00e7ektirdim, \u00e7ok me\u015fhur oldum buralarda \u00e7ok bildi\u011finiz gibi de\u011fil.<\/p>\n

    Yorgunluk da olunca yol uzad\u0131 sanki ama sonunda Lahor’a gelebildik.<\/p>\n

    **<\/p>\n

    Sabah \u00f6nce Unesco d\u00fcnya miras aday\u0131, Hiran Minar’a gidiyoruz. Mughal \u0130mparatoru Cihangir, bu b\u00f6lgeyi av sahas\u0131 ilan etmi\u015f ve buraya yavru iken yakalad\u0131\u011f\u0131 sonralar\u0131 yan\u0131ndan hi\u00e7 ay\u0131rmad\u0131\u011f\u0131 geyi\u011fi ile gelirmi\u015f. Bir g\u00fcn avlan\u0131rken yanl\u0131\u015fl\u0131kla kendi geyi\u011fini vurur, bu olaya \u00e7ok \u00fcz\u00fcl\u00fcr ve geyi\u011fini vurdu\u011fu yere 33 metre y\u00fcksekli\u011finde \u00f6zel bir kule yapt\u0131r\u0131r ve geyi\u011fini kulenin tepesine g\u00f6mer. Sonra gelen imparatorlar da \u00e7evreye b\u00fcy\u00fck bir g\u00f6let ve av k\u00f6\u015fk\u00fc yapt\u0131r\u0131rlar. Bak\u0131ml\u0131 ve korunmakta oldu\u011fu i\u00e7in Unesco d\u00fcnya miras aday listesine al\u0131nm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. \u00a0Yani geyi\u011fin mezar\u0131 kulenin en tepesinde, biz de geyi\u011fe dua ettik, mekan\u0131 cennet olsun diye!<\/p>\n

    S\u0131rada, Mughal imparatoru \u015eah Cihan’\u0131n babas\u0131 \u015eah Cihangir’in mezar\u0131 var. Mezar dediysek akl\u0131n\u0131za Karacaahmet Mezarl\u0131\u011f\u0131 gibi bir \u015fey gelmesin. Kocaman bak\u0131ml\u0131 bir alan \u00fczerinde saray gibi bir yer, her taraf oyma kakma mermerler falan. B\u00f6yle bir yer. Buras\u0131 da Unesco d\u00fcnya miras aday\u0131, ne zaman as\u0131l listeye girer bilmem.<\/p>\n

    Hava giderek \u0131s\u0131n\u0131yor mu ne, 35 derecenin \u00fcst\u00fcnde kesin.<\/p>\n

    Buralara kadar geldik madem devam. Lahor Kalesi de Unesco d\u00fcnya Miras\u0131 listesinde. Buras\u0131 \u00f6nemli bir yer.1550 y\u0131llar\u0131n da Bab\u00fcr imparatoru\u00a0Ekber \u015eah taraf\u0131ndan yapt\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f, bir\u00e7ok istilalar ve sava\u015flardan sonra yap\u0131lan bak\u0131m \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmalar\u0131 ile ayakta durmay\u0131 ba\u015farm\u0131\u015f. Ad\u0131 kale ama i\u00e7inde camiler, kuleler, saraylar var. Aynal\u0131 Saray, cam ve aynalar ile dekore edildi\u011fi i\u00e7in bu ismi alm\u0131\u015f. Ayr\u0131ca de\u011ferli ta\u015flar, mozaikler ve i\u015flenmi\u015f beyaz k\u0131ymetli mermerleri ile d\u00fcnyan\u0131n en g\u00fczel saraylar\u0131ndan biridir. Hikaye \u015fu; Saray,\u00a0\u015eah Cihan taraf\u0131ndan e\u015fi M\u00fcmtaz Mahal\u00a0i\u00e7in yapt\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. M\u00fcmtaz Mahal, \u015eah’\u0131n yapt\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131 bu saray\u0131 hi\u00e7 g\u00f6remeden 1631 y\u0131l\u0131nda Hindistan’da vefat etmi\u015f. Aynal\u0131 Saray hem tarihi hem mimarisi hem de hikayesi le kale i\u00e7inde \u00f6nemli yap\u0131lardan biri. Ayr\u0131ca \u0130mparatorlar\u0131n halka hitap ettikleri yer, harem dairesi de \u00e7ok b\u00fcy\u00fck bir alan \u00fczerinde, han\u0131mlar rahat etsin diye..<\/p>\n

    Shalamar bah\u00e7eleri,1640 y\u0131l\u0131nda Pers usul\u00fc M\u00fcsl\u00fcman geleneklerine g\u00f6re yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f muhte\u015fem \u00e7ok g\u00fczel bir bah\u00e7e.<\/p>\n

    Lahor Kalesi\u2019nin hemen yan\u0131nda ve onun tamamlay\u0131c\u0131 olan Badshahi cami, \u015eah Cihan\u2019\u0131n o\u011flu \u015eah Cihangir taraf\u0131ndan 1673 de yapt\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f 55 bin ki\u015filik b\u00fcy\u00fck ve ger\u00e7ekten g\u00f6rkemli bir yap\u0131. Mughallar aslen Mo\u011fol olmas\u0131na kar\u015f\u0131n, Hint medeniyetinin mistik havas\u0131n\u0131 eserlerine yans\u0131tm\u0131\u015flar.<\/p>\n

    Bu g\u00fcn \u00e7ok yorulduk ama \u00e7ok g\u00fczel yerler muhte\u015fem eserler g\u00f6rd\u00fck, dinlenme zaman\u0131.<\/p>\n

    **<\/p>\n

    Sabah kahvalt\u0131 sonras\u0131 Lahor’un sokaklar\u0131nda ke\u015ffe devam. Darac\u0131k sokaklar, her \u015feyin sat\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck d\u00fckkanlar,\u00a0y\u00fczlerce motosikletlerin aralar\u0131ndan k\u0131vrak hareketlerle heyecanl\u0131 y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f bol korna sesleri, etraftan gelen Kuran okumalar\u0131 aras\u0131nda \u00a0Wazir Khan Camii’ne ula\u015ft\u0131k. Kap\u0131da ya\u015fl\u0131 bir adam, oturdu\u011fu yerden sopas\u0131yla ayakkab\u0131lar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 \u00e7\u0131kartmam\u0131z\u0131 i\u015faret ediyor. Bizde \u00e7\u0131kartt\u0131k emanet ettik ya\u015fl\u0131 adama. Ayakkab\u0131lar\u0131 \u00e7\u0131kard\u0131k ama \u00e7erisi mi yoksa d\u0131\u015far\u0131s\u0131 m\u0131 daha temiz belli de\u011fil. Kocaman bir avlu, yerlerde \u00f6rt\u00fc gibi yayg\u0131lar var, bunlar\u0131 \u0131slatarak ortam\u0131 biraz serinletmeye \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131yorlarm\u0131\u015f. Pakistan\u2019da ki ilk, d\u00f6rt minareli cami olan, Wazir Khan camii k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 kum ta\u015f\u0131 ve i\u015flenmi\u015f renklendirilmi\u015f tu\u011flalardan yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Lahor Kalesi\u2019ne y\u00fcr\u00fcme mesafesinde oldu\u011fu i\u00e7in imparator Cuma namazlar\u0131n\u0131 burada k\u0131larm\u0131\u015f.\u00a0 Caminin i\u00e7erisi yani kapal\u0131 k\u0131sm\u0131 k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir yer, esas a\u00e7\u0131k alanda avluda g\u00fcne\u015fin alt\u0131nda namaz k\u0131l\u0131n\u0131yor, belki de sevab\u0131 daha fazla..<\/p>\n

    Son olarak Sahalimar bah\u00e7elerine gidiyoruz.1641 y\u0131l\u0131nda \u015eah \u0130smail taraf\u0131ndan yapt\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f tipik bir Mughal k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fc yans\u0131tan M\u00fcsl\u00fcman geleneklerine g\u00f6re yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f bir bah\u00e7e. \u0130\u00e7erisinde k\u00f6\u015fkler, oturma alanlar\u0131, \u00e7i\u00e7ek bah\u00e7eleri, f\u0131skiyeler falan olan \u00e7ok b\u00fcy\u00fck bir alan. Anla\u015f\u0131lan \u00e7ok g\u00fczel ve bak\u0131ml\u0131 bir yermi\u015f ama son zamanlarda biraz ihmal edilmi\u015f gibi sanki. Buras\u0131 da Lahor Kalesi ile birlikte Unesco d\u00fcnya miras\u0131 listesine girmi\u015f.<\/p>\n

    Pakistan nas\u0131l bir yer; Arap harflerini kullan\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 % 97 M\u00fcsl\u00fcman olan \u0130slam Cumhuriyeti. Pakistan g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcrde \u00e7ok yobaz ba\u011fnaz olmayan bir yer gibi, Asl\u0131nda tam olarak anlamak i\u00e7in aile ya\u015famlar\u0131na ve k\u0131rsal kesimlere girmek daha yak\u0131ndan tan\u0131mak gerekir. Kad\u0131nlar\u0131n\u00a0\u00e7o\u011funun \u00fczerinde \u00e7ar\u015faf var, ancak bunlar\u0131n b\u00fcy\u00fck k\u0131sm\u0131 geleneksel renkli hafif\u00e7e omuzlar\u0131na d\u00fc\u015fen \u015f\u0131k \u015fal gibi \u00f6rt\u00fcler. \u00a0Di\u011fer k\u0131sm\u0131 kara \u00e7ar\u015faf, pe\u00e7eli. Ancak bunlar\u0131n bir k\u0131sm\u0131 pe\u00e7eli olarak rahatl\u0131kla yabanc\u0131 ile konu\u015fuyor, foto\u011fraf \u00e7ektiriyor. Erkekler genelde sakall\u0131, bunlar\u0131n bir k\u0131sm\u0131 dini sakal gibi ve buraya \u00f6zg\u00fc \u00e7o\u011funluk beyaz, gri ve siyah renkli alt\u0131nda pantolon \u00fczerinde uzun tek par\u00e7a g\u00f6mlek giysiler giyiyorlar. Yani tek tip k\u0131yafet gibi, belli ki \u00e7ok rahat. Genelde M\u00fcsl\u00fcman \u00fclkelerde foto\u011fraf \u00e7ekmek \u00e7ok zordur,\u00a0g\u00fcnah! \u00a0Burada itiraf ederim, \u00e7ok zorlanmad\u0131m. Asl\u0131nda fazla turistin geldi\u011fi bir yer de de\u011fil, yabanc\u0131 birisi olunca hayretle etraf\u0131n\u0131 sar\u0131yorlar. Onlar bizi, biz onlar\u0131n foto\u011fraf\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7ekiyoruz. Trafik, \u015fehirleraras\u0131 yollar d\u00fczg\u00fcn, ama ara yollara girdiniz mi yand\u0131n\u0131z hem yol hem trafik felaket, sanki korna \u00e7almak yasal zorunluluk gibi bir \u015fey. \u00c7arp\u0131\u015fan arabalar gibi, her yerden biri \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yor. Motosiklet g\u00fcnl\u00fck hayat\u0131n par\u00e7as\u0131. Buralarda en baba en b\u0131\u00e7k\u0131n \u0130stanbul \u015fof\u00f6r\u00fc bile arabay\u0131 yerinden oynatamaz valla, hangi taraftan neyin gelece\u011fi belli de\u011fil.\u00a0\u00c7evre beklemedi\u011fim kadar ye\u015fil ve \u00e7ok park var. B\u00fcy\u00fck ma\u011faza ve benzin istasyonlar\u0131nda otellerin kap\u0131s\u0131nda silahl\u0131 g\u00fcvenlik olmas\u0131na ra\u011fmen, g\u00fcvenlik konusu \u0130stanbul ne kadar g\u00fcvenli ise buras\u0131 da o kadar g\u00fcvenli. Medeniyet ve sosyal ya\u015fam a\u00e7\u0131s\u0131ndan \u0130slam \u00fclkesi ve onun \u00a0yaratt\u0131\u011f\u0131 a\u011f\u0131r hava \u00e7ok hakim. Alkol yasak. Ya\u015fam\u0131n i\u00e7inde ya\u015fanan \u00e7eli\u015fkiler \u00f6zellikle gen\u00e7lerde \u00e7ok belli. \u00c7evrede ciddi g\u00fczel ma\u011faza ve pahal\u0131 arabalar var, anla\u015f\u0131lan o ki, belli bir kesim farkl\u0131 standartlarda ya\u015f\u0131yor. Ha, bir de buran\u0131n inan\u0131lmaz s\u00fcsl\u00fc kamyonlar\u0131. S\u00fcslemek i\u00e7in b\u00fcy\u00fck paralar harcand\u0131\u011f\u0131 belli, o kadar ki baz\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131n \u00f6n camlar\u0131 bile s\u00fcsl\u00fc, d\u0131\u015far\u0131s\u0131n\u0131 k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir delikten g\u00f6rebiliyor. Olsun, en s\u00fcsl\u00fc benim kamyonum ya! Yemekleri biraz baharatl\u0131 ama yiyebilece\u011finiz bir \u015feyler hep var. \u00dclke genelinde ki\u015fi ba\u015f\u0131 has\u0131la 1.250 USD civar\u0131nda. Pakistan ekonomisi b\u00fcy\u00fck \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fcde tar\u0131ma dayal\u0131d\u0131r. Ortalama e\u011fitim seviyesinin d\u00fc\u015f\u00fckl\u00fc\u011f\u00fc, yoksulluk ve bunlar\u0131n yaratt\u0131\u011f\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcnt\u00fc a\u00e7\u0131k belli oluyor. Lahor, daha ticari \u015fehir, daha kar\u0131\u015f\u0131k ve da\u011f\u0131n\u0131k gibi..<\/p>\n

    Pakistan Hindistan aras\u0131ndaki s\u0131n\u0131r uzunlu\u011fu bin km den fazla ve ge\u00e7i\u015f i\u00e7in tek kap\u0131 var. Bizde buradan Wagah g\u00fcmr\u00fck kap\u0131s\u0131ndan Hindistan\u2019a ge\u00e7mek istiyoruz. Hindistan’a vize al\u0131rken de sorun olmu\u015ftu, o kap\u0131dan giremezsiniz diye vize vermemi\u015flerdi. Sonra b\u00fcy\u00fckel\u00e7ilik ile yaz\u0131\u015f\u0131p durumu anlatarak vize alm\u0131\u015ft\u0131k. \u00a0\u00c7ok bilinen bir yer de\u011fil, buray\u0131 tercih ettik \u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc her ak\u015fam g\u00fcmr\u00fck kap\u0131s\u0131 askeri seremoni ile kapan\u0131yor, sabah tekrar a\u00e7\u0131l\u0131yor. \u0130\u015fte sebeb-i ziyaretimiz \u201cWagah border ceremony\u201d, Wagah s\u0131n\u0131r kap\u0131 seremonisini g\u00f6rmek i\u00e7in buradan giri\u015f yap\u0131yoruz. Fazla hareketli olmayan g\u00fcmr\u00fck kap\u0131lar\u0131nda i\u015flemler genelde kolay olmaz daima sorunlar \u00e7\u0131kar. Neyse sonunda hallettik, valizlerimiz elde Pakistan\u2019dan \u00e7\u0131k\u0131\u015f yapabildik. Hindistan giri\u015f kap\u0131s\u0131 her g\u00fcn saat 15.00 kapan\u0131yor ve saat be\u015fte de hem Pakistan hem de Hindistan taraf\u0131nda gayet de ciddi bir \u015fekilde kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131kl\u0131 ayn\u0131 anda g\u00fcmr\u00fck\u00a0kap\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131n kapanma t\u00f6reni yap\u0131yorlar. Bu g\u00f6steriyi izlemek i\u00e7in Hindistan\u2019a gidiyoruz.<\/p>\n

    Unesco D\u00fcnya Miras\u0131 listesinde olan ve aday listede olan g\u00fczel eserler g\u00f6rd\u00fck. Binlerce y\u0131ll\u0131k tarihi olan, \u00fczerinden onlarca medeniyet ge\u00e7mi\u015f k\u00fclt\u00fcr birikimi olan topraklar. G\u00f6r\u00fclmesi gereken yerler.<\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

    Sevgilerimle<\/p>\n

    Hayrettin KA\u011eNICI<\/p>\n

    Ekim 2017<\/p>\n

    www.hayrettinkagnici.com<\/a><\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

     <\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

    \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0   200 milyon n\u00fcfus ve 796 km\u00b2 y\u00fcz\u00f6l\u00e7\u00fcm\u00fc olan, bize yak\u0131n gibi ama hakk\u0131nda fazla bir bilgimiz olmayan Pakistan \u0130slam Cumhuriyeti; g\u00f6relim bakal\u0131m buralarda d\u00fcnya nas\u0131l d\u00f6n\u00fcyormu\u015f diye \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131k yola. Ana k\u0131ta Hindistan da […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":9509,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[13],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-9567","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-gezi-notlari"],"yoast_head":"\nPakistan \u0130slam Cumhuriyeti - Hayrettin Ka\u011fn\u0131c\u0131 Resmi Web Sitesi<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/hayrettinkagnici.com\/tr\/?p=9567\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"tr_TR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Pakistan \u0130slam Cumhuriyeti - Hayrettin Ka\u011fn\u0131c\u0131 Resmi Web Sitesi\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0   200 milyon n\u00fcfus ve 796 km\u00b2 y\u00fcz\u00f6l\u00e7\u00fcm\u00fc olan, bize yak\u0131n gibi ama hakk\u0131nda fazla bir bilgimiz olmayan Pakistan \u0130slam Cumhuriyeti; g\u00f6relim bakal\u0131m buralarda d\u00fcnya nas\u0131l d\u00f6n\u00fcyormu\u015f diye \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131k yola. 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