{"id":8368,"date":"2016-10-31T08:56:12","date_gmt":"2016-10-31T05:56:12","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.hayrettinkagnici.com\/?p=8368"},"modified":"2018-12-10T21:05:56","modified_gmt":"2018-12-10T18:05:56","slug":"balkanlar","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/hayrettinkagnici.com\/tr\/balkanlar\/","title":{"rendered":"Balkanlar"},"content":{"rendered":"

BALKANLAR<\/strong><\/u><\/em><\/p>\n

Balkanlar\u0131 anlamak i\u00e7in \u00f6nce eski Yugoslavya\u2019n\u0131n siyasi tarihini k\u0131saca hat\u0131rlamak gerekir. 2,D\u00fcnya Sava\u015f\u0131 s\u0131ras\u0131nda direni\u015f ger\u00e7ekle\u015ftiren Yugoslavya partizanlar\u0131 i\u00e7 sava\u015flar sonucu ya\u015fanan y\u00f6netim zafiyetleri nedeniyle, 1943 y\u0131l\u0131nda \u00fclkenin ad\u0131 Demokratik Federal Yugoslavya\u00a0,1946 da Yugoslavya Federal Halk Cumhuriyeti, son olarak da 1963 y\u0131l\u0131nda\u00a0Yugoslavya Sosyalist Federal Cumhuriyeti olmu\u015ftur.<\/p>\n

Tito\u2019yu da hat\u0131rlamak gerekir. May\u0131s 1892 de H\u0131rvat baba Slovak annenin 15 \u00e7ocu\u011fundan biri. O d\u00f6nemlerde b\u00f6lgede ya\u015fanan bir\u00e7ok sava\u015f ve direni\u015f hareketlerin i\u00e7inde bulunmu\u015f, yaralanm\u0131\u015f, esir d\u00fc\u015fm\u00fc\u015f, hapiste yatm\u0131\u015f ve 1920 y\u0131l\u0131nda Yugoslavya Kom\u00fcnist partisi kurmu\u015f. Esas ad\u0131 Josip Broz olan, yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 bir \u00e7ok ba\u015far\u0131l\u0131 i\u015fler sonras\u0131, \u2018sen yapars\u0131n..\u2019 anlam\u0131na gelen Tito takma ad\u0131n\u0131 ve daha sonra da Mare\u015fal unvan\u0131 alm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Alman \u00a0Nazi\u00a0birliklerinin, 1941’de Yugoslavya’ya girmesi, onlara kar\u015f\u0131 \u00f6rg\u00fctlenme ve m\u00fccadelede ba\u015far\u0131l\u0131 olmu\u015f, 1943 y\u0131l\u0131nda Yugoslavya’n\u0131n e\u015fit halklardan meydana gelen federal bir topluluk oldu\u011funu ilan etmi\u015f ve 1945 de Yugoslavya Federal Cumhuriyetinin ba\u015fkan\u0131 se\u00e7ilmi\u015ftir. Farkl\u0131 din ve etnik guruplardan olu\u015fan \u00fclkeyi, 1980 y\u0131l\u0131nda \u00f6l\u00fcnceye kadar bar\u0131\u015f i\u00e7inde birlikte tutmay\u0131 ba\u015farm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. \u00d6l\u00fcm\u00fcnden sonra Yugoslavya par\u00e7alanma s\u00fcrecine girmi\u015ftir. 1990 l\u0131 y\u0131llar da Vatikan, Almanya ve Avusturya ile birlikte H\u0131rvatistan b\u00f6lgesini referandum organizasyonu ile ay\u0131rarak ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 tan\u0131m\u0131\u015f, bunu di\u011fer etnik gruplar takip edmi\u015f ve Yugoslavya diye bilinen \u00fclke bu g\u00fcn, Slovenya, H\u0131rvatistan, Bosna-hersek, S\u0131rbistan, Karada\u011f, Makedonya olarak 6 farkl\u0131 devlet, Voyvodina ve Kosova olarak da 2 farkl\u0131 \u00f6zerk b\u00f6lgeye b\u00f6l\u00fcnm\u00fc\u015f durumdad\u0131r. Son durum bu, bu kadar k\u0131sa zamanda bu kadar de\u011fi\u015fim ve par\u00e7alanma \u00e7ok az \u00fclkenin ba\u015f\u0131na gelir. K\u0131sa hikaye b\u00f6yle.<\/p>\n

SIRB\u0130STAN<\/p>\n

1992’de\u00a0Bosna-Hersek Devleti\u00a0\u00fclke \u00e7ap\u0131nda ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131k ilan edilmesi konusunda bir referandum karar\u0131 al\u0131r. Bosnal\u0131 S\u0131rplar\u0131n \u00e7o\u011funun boykot etti\u011fi bu referandum ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131\u011f\u0131n kabul edilmesiyle sonu\u00e7lan\u0131r ve Bosna-Hersek Cumhuriyeti\u00a0h\u00fck\u00fcmeti ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 ilan eder.<\/p>\n

Ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131\u011f\u0131n anayurtlar\u0131 olan\u00a0S\u0131rbistan’dan kendilerini koparaca\u011f\u0131n\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnen ve \u201cB\u00fcy\u00fck S\u0131rbistan\u201d hayalleri olan Bosnal\u0131 S\u0131rplar, Bosna’da S\u0131rp Cumhuriyeti\u00a0kurduklar\u0131n\u0131 ilan eder ve kendi b\u00f6lgelerinde bulunan\u00a0M\u00fcsl\u00fcman (Bo\u015fnaklar) ve\u00a0Katoliklerden (H\u0131rvatlar) bu b\u00f6lgeyi terk etmelerini isterler. Bunu h\u0131zland\u0131rmak i\u00e7inde, \u00f6zellikle deh\u015fet yaratarak halk\u0131n dayanma g\u00fcc\u00fcn\u00fc k\u0131rmak, insanlar\u0131 b\u00f6lgeden derhal uzakla\u015ft\u0131rmak i\u00e7in her t\u00fcrl\u00fc insanl\u0131k d\u0131\u015f\u0131 uygulamalara yaparlar. Bu s\u00fcre\u00e7te d\u00fcnyan\u0131n g\u00fc\u00e7l\u00fc ordular\u0131ndan Yugoslavya ordusunun deste\u011fini alarak b\u00fcy\u00fck katliamlar yapan S\u0131rp milisler, Srebnenitsa\u2019da 1995 y\u0131l\u0131n\u0131n yaz ay\u0131nda\u00a0II. D\u00fcnra Sava\u015f\u0131\u2019ndan sonra meydana gelen en b\u00fcy\u00fck toplu katliamlar yapm\u0131\u015f ve on binlerce insan\u0131 \u00f6ld\u00fcrm\u00fc\u015flerdir. Bu g\u00fcn S\u0131rbistan Cumhuriyeti, y\u00fcz \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fcm\u00fc 88.300 km\u00b2, n\u00fcfusu 7.250.000 olan ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131z bir \u00fclke.<\/p>\n

**<\/p>\n

Ak\u015fam\u00fczeri, S\u0131rbistan’\u0131n ba\u015f \u015fehri beyaz \u015fehir anlam\u0131na gelen Belgrad’a var\u0131p otele yerle\u015ftikten sonra, \u00f6nce Belgrad’\u0131n me\u015fhur gece hayat\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6relim diye \u0131\u015f\u0131lt\u0131l\u0131 caddesi al\u0131\u015fveri\u015f ve e\u011flencenin merkezlerinden Knez Mihailova caddesini tefti\u015f ettik. Hafta sonlar\u0131 sanki herkes sokakta yiyip i\u00e7iyor gibi. Geceyi tarihi Moskova otelinde \u00e7ilekli kek simid ile noktalad\u0131k.<\/p>\n

**<\/p>\n

Sabah \u00f6nce Kale Meydan\u0131ndan Belgrad Kalesine gidiyoruz. Belgrad kalesi, koskoca bir tarihin ya\u015fand\u0131\u011f\u0131 eski kent.\u00a0 Kale, Sava ve Tuna nehirlerinin kesi\u015fti\u011fi stratejik bir noktaya kurulmu\u015f, i\u00e7inde t\u00fcrbeler, m\u00fczeler, parklar, an\u0131tlar, galeriler, heykeller, ya\u015fam\u0131n izleri bulunan ve Osmanl\u0131 kokan 63 hektarl\u0131k koca bir alan. \u00a0Kanuni Sultan S\u00fcleyman Belgrad\u2019\u0131 1521 y\u0131l\u0131nda fetih edince, Ortodoks n\u00fcfusun bir k\u0131sm\u0131 da \u0130stanbul\u2019a bug\u00fcn \u0130stanbul\u2019da ki Belgrad Orman\u0131 b\u00f6lgesine g\u00f6nderir. \u0130stanbul\u2019daki Belgrad Orman\u0131 ad\u0131 da oradan gelir. Belgrad da bir ka\u00e7 \u00e7al\u0131\u015fan camiden biri Bayrakl\u0131 cami, burada ya\u015fayan az say\u0131da M\u00fcsl\u00fcmanlar i\u00e7in hala ayakta. B\u00f6lgenin en b\u00fcy\u00fck kiliselerinden Sava Kilisesi, hen\u00fcz tamamlanmam\u0131\u015f, bitecek gibi de durmuyor. Burada gelin damat trafi\u011fi yo\u011fun yeni evliler i\u00e7in u\u011frak yerlerinden galiba.<\/p>\n

Merak etti\u011fim yerlerden biri de Tito\u2019nun mezar\u0131. M\u00fczesi ve sade an\u0131t mezar\u0131 ayn\u0131 yerde. Fazlas\u0131n\u0131 beklemi\u015ftim. Tito, sosyalizmi ve kapitalizmi bir arada ya\u015fatmaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015fm\u0131\u015f. Yani y\u00f6netim ilkesel olarak sosyalizm ama Mc Donald\u2019s var, seyahat k\u0131s\u0131tlamas\u0131 yok, ister Rusya\u2019ya ister Amerika\u2019ya gidebilirsin. \u00c7ok ince ayarlar ile \u00fclkeyi bir arada tutmu\u015f, \u00a0\u00f6ld\u00fckten sonra memleket toz duman.. Bence \u00f6nemli i\u015fler yapm\u0131\u015f, \u00a0d\u00f6neminde ki zengin ve varl\u0131kl\u0131 insanlar taraf\u0131ndan mallar\u0131n\u0131 payla\u015f\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in sevilmeyen, fakir ve orta halli insanlar i\u00e7in kahraman biri. D\u00f6neminde Yugoslavya b\u00f6lgenin g\u00fc\u00e7l\u00fc \u00fclkelerinden biriydi.<\/p>\n

Nikola Tesla M\u00fczesi, bilim ve tekni\u011fe ilgi duyanlar i\u00e7in ziyaret edilmesi gereken yerlerden biri. Her dahi gibi hafif deli kimli\u011fi olan g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde kullan\u0131lan, muhtemel gelecekte kullan\u0131lacak baz\u0131 icat fikirlerin sahibi.<\/p>\n

Tuna nehri ile Sava nehirlerinde tekne turu ile g\u00fcn\u00fc tamamlad\u0131k.\u00a0 Kale buradan da \u00e7ok g\u00fczel g\u00f6z\u00fck\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n

\u0130\u015fte Belgrad geceleri, ak\u015fam\u0131 Skadarska caddesinde g\u00fczel bir restorandada ge\u00e7irdik. Keyifli yemek, rahats\u0131z etmeyen m\u00fczik, g\u00fczel.<\/p>\n

**<\/p>\n

\u00dclkenin kuzeyine Voyvodina\u2019ya gidiyoruz. S\u0131rbistan’a ba\u011fl\u0131 az\u0131nl\u0131k n\u00fcfusun \u00e7o\u011funlu\u011funun Macar k\u00f6kenli oldu\u011fu \u00f6zerk b\u00f6lge, \u00a0kendi parlamentosu ile i\u00e7 islerinde ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131z kararlar verebiliyor. Verimli topra\u011f\u0131 ile tar\u0131mda ba\u015far\u0131l\u0131 olmu\u015f ve di\u011fer yerlere g\u00f6re daha zengin oldu\u011fu belli.. \u00d6nce Karlof\u00e7a kasabas\u0131na geliyoruz. \u00a0Buras\u0131 Osmanl\u0131\u2019n\u0131n Avrupa \u00fclkeleri ile 1699 y\u0131l\u0131nda yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 Karlof\u00e7a Antla\u015fmas\u0131\u2019n\u0131n imzaland\u0131\u011f\u0131 yer. Osmanl\u0131 bu antla\u015fma ile hem bat\u0131da b\u00fcy\u00fck toprak kaybetmi\u015f hem de \u00e7\u00f6k\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcn ba\u015flang\u0131c\u0131 olmu\u015ftur. Yani bol hatunlu sefahat d\u00f6nemlerinin sonu. G\u00fczel keyifli sakin bir kasaba. Uzun y\u0131llar S\u0131rp Ortodoks Kiliselerinin merkezi olmu\u015f.\u00a0 E\u011fitimde de \u00f6nemli yerlerden biri.<\/p>\n

Voyvodina\u2019n\u0131n ba\u015f \u015fehri Novi Sad. \u00d6nce Petrovaradin Kalesi\u2019nden \u015fehrin panoramik manzaras\u0131. Bu manzara kar\u015f\u0131 bir kahve molas\u0131. Novi Sad, modern sakin keyifli g\u00fczel insanlar\u0131n oldu\u011fu\u00a0 bir yer. \u0130yi bir \u015farap e\u015fli\u011finde g\u00fczel ak\u015fam yeme\u011fi..<\/p>\n

BOSNA-HERSEK<\/strong><\/p>\n

Farkl\u0131 din ve etnik guruplar\u0131n\u0131 Yugoslavya i\u00e7inde bir arada tutmak imkans\u0131z hale gelmi\u015fti. 1991 de H\u0131rvatistan, Slovenya ve Makedonya ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131klar\u0131n\u0131 ilan ettikten sonra 1992 y\u0131l\u0131nda Bosna-Hersek\u2019te yap\u0131lan referandum sonu\u00e7lar\u0131na, Bosnal\u0131 S\u0131rplar kendilerine daha fazla toprak kazanmak i\u00e7in Bosnal\u0131 M\u00fcsl\u00fcmanlara sava\u015f a\u00e7arak on binlerce ki\u015fiyi \u00f6ld\u00fcrd\u00fcler. 1995 te \u00e7ok kanl\u0131 ge\u00e7en sava\u015f\u0131n sonunda ayr\u0131larak ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131z devlet oldular.<\/p>\n

Novi Sad ile Saraybosna aras\u0131 280 km, yollar, virajlar.. neredeyse tam g\u00fcnl\u00fck mesafe. Bosna-Hersek Cumhuriyetine ge\u00e7iyoruz. S\u0131n\u0131rdan d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm\u00fczden rahat ge\u00e7tik. Fiziki olarak s\u0131n\u0131r, Sava nehri ile tan\u0131mlanm\u0131\u015f ancak epey bir b\u00f6lge hala S\u0131rplar\u0131n kontrol\u00fcnde ve S\u0131rp b\u00f6lgesi olarak kabul ediliyor. Bo\u015fnak, Bosnal\u0131 M\u00fcsl\u00fcmanlar, bizi de Bo\u015fnak grubunda g\u00f6r\u00fcyorlar.\u00a0 Ne de olsa \u015fuur alt\u0131 S\u0131rp, Bo\u015fnak gerginli\u011fi var. Sonunda ba\u015fkent Saraybosna\u2019ya geldik. Hani tarih kitaplar\u0131nda ilk \u00f6\u011frendi\u011fimiz konulardan biri, 1.ci D\u00fcnya Sava\u015f\u0131n\u0131n ba\u015flama nedeni olarak; bir S\u0131rp gencinin Avusturya-Macaristan krall\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131n prensine yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 suikast olarak anlat\u0131l\u0131r ya, i\u015fte o nokta olan Latin k\u00f6pr\u00fcs\u00fcndeyiz. D\u00fcnyan\u0131n kaderinin de\u011fi\u015fti\u011fi, sava\u015f\u0131n sebebi olarak g\u00f6sterilen olay\u0131n yeri. \u015eehrin en \u00f6nemli yerlerinden Ba\u015f \u00c7ar\u015f\u0131 veya Osmanl\u0131 \u00c7ar\u015f\u0131s\u0131. Bir anda her \u015fey de\u011fi\u015fti, \u00a0Anadolu da, neredeyse her \u015fehirde olan turistik \u00e7ar\u015f\u0131 gibi bir yer. Her \u015fey bildik her \u015fey tan\u0131d\u0131k. Biraz ileride H\u00fcsrev Pa\u015fa camii, s\u00f6yle hafif kafan\u0131z\u0131 kald\u0131r\u0131p bak\u0131n g\u00f6z\u00fcn\u00fcze en az 4-5 cami tak\u0131l\u0131r .Cemaat mi \u00e7ok, \u00a0camii mi \u00e7ok anlamad\u0131m!. Al\u00e7ak tabureli kahvehaneler, baz\u0131lar\u0131n da ilahiler \u00e7al\u0131yor, \u00a0pe\u00e7eli \u00e7ar\u015fafl\u0131 bol Arap turist. Baz\u0131 d\u00fckkanlar\u0131n tabelalar\u0131 bile Arap\u00e7a. \u00c7ar\u015f\u0131 i\u00e7inden devam, sokakta yer d\u00f6\u015femelerin de\u011fi\u015fti\u011fini fark ediyorum kesme ta\u015flardan yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f yol, granit yer d\u00f6\u015femeli yol olarak devam ediyor. Buradan sonras\u0131 Macar-Avusturya \u00c7ar\u015f\u0131s\u0131 oldu. D\u00fckkanlar ma\u011faza, kahvehaneler kafe, kebap\u00e7\u0131lar, k\u00f6fteciler restoran olmaya ba\u015flad\u0131.\u00a0Arap turistler bu tarafa pek ra\u011fbet etmiyor anla\u015f\u0131lan. Do\u011fu-bat\u0131 ya\u015fant\u0131s\u0131n neredeyse bir \u00e7izgi ile ayr\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 yer. Asl\u0131nda \u00f6nemli bir yer, Katolik Katedrali, \u00a0Ortodoks Kilisesi, \u00a0Musevi Sinagogu ve camiler. Hepsi bir arada ne g\u00fczel, \u00a0ke\u015fke fikirlerde b\u00f6yle yan yana ho\u015f g\u00f6r\u00fc i\u00e7inde olsa. Hayretler i\u00e7indeyim, \u00a0bir g\u00fcn \u00f6nceki ince uzun boylu endaml\u0131 kalem gibi g\u00fczel Slav \u0131rk\u0131 k\u0131zlar\u0131n\u00a0yerini, uzun olmayan \u00a0bal\u0131k etli kal\u00e7alar\u0131 hafif dolgun ablalar ald\u0131. \u00a0Bu kadar yak\u0131n b\u00f6lgede bu kadar fark olur mu!. \u015eimdi anla\u015f\u0131ld\u0131, Osmanl\u0131n\u0131n haremlerinin \u00e7o\u011funlukla S\u0131rp k\u0131zlardan olma nedeni!. Yerlerde baz\u0131 b\u00f6lgeler i\u015faretlenmi\u015f; \u00a0buralar katliam noktalar\u0131. Hele bir tanesi, Katedralin duvar\u0131nda kur\u015fun izleri, yerde k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 kan izleri. Allah\u2019\u0131m, \u00a0nas\u0131l b\u00f6yle olabiliyor, bu d\u00fcnyay\u0131 \u015fekillendirmeye \u00e7al\u0131\u015fan pezevenklerde hi\u00e7 mi vicdan yok\u2026 yok tabi, benim memleketimin hali \u00e7ok mu farkl\u0131! \u00a0B\u00fct\u00fcn emperyal g\u00fc\u00e7ler sa\u011fl\u0131 sollu giri\u015fmi\u015f vaziyetteler bizi \u00e7\u00f6kertmek i\u00e7in.<\/p>\n

Gece boktan bir otele d\u00fc\u015ft\u00fck, \u00a0yapacak bur \u015fey yok, zevk almaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131yoruz!.<\/p>\n

**<\/p>\n

Sadrazamlar \u015fehri diye bilinen Travnik’e gidiyoruz. Saraybosna da bir\u00e7ok binada halen sava\u015f\u0131n izleri olan kur\u015fun delikle bombalanan yerler a\u00e7\u0131k\u00e7a g\u00f6z\u00fck\u00fcyor. Bu co\u011frafyan\u0131n kaderi midir nedir, ortalama her 30-40 y\u0131lda bir, yeniden sava\u015f. Tecav\u00fczler, \u00e7ocuk \u00f6l\u00fcmleri, katliamlar, toplu \u00f6l\u00fcmler, ya\u015fanan ac\u0131lar. .\u00a0Ayn\u0131 jenerasyonun bir ka\u00e7 defa ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131 bu travma nas\u0131l bir kal\u0131c\u0131 etki b\u0131rak\u0131r d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnemiyorum. \u0130lk durak, Ahmi\u00e7 \u00a0k\u00f6y\u00fc. \u00a0Ge\u00e7mi\u015fte Bo\u015fnaklar ile H\u0131rvatlar\u0131n birlikte karde\u015f\u00e7e ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131 yerlerden biri. 1993 y\u0131l\u0131nda k\u00f6y\u00fc basan H\u0131rvat birlikleri k\u00f6y\u00fcn \u00e7o\u011funlu\u011funu te\u015fkil eden Ahmi\u00e7 s\u00fclalesinin \u00e7o\u011funu \u00f6ld\u00fcrm\u00fc\u015fler. K\u00f6y\u00fcn imam\u0131 Vahit ile konu\u015fuyoruz, ya\u015fananlar\u0131 anlat\u0131yor. Tek kelime, korkun\u00e7\u2026 K\u00f6yde iki cami bir imam var, konuyu da\u011f\u0131tmak i\u00e7in ‘hocam nas\u0131l oluyor, bir g\u00fcn bir cami, \u00f6b\u00fcr g\u00fcn di\u011ferinde mi namaz k\u0131l\u0131n\u0131yor’ diyecektim, benden h\u0131zl\u0131 \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131; yok \u00f6yle de\u011fil, \u00a0‘s\u00fcnneti birinde ba\u015fl\u0131yorum farz\u0131 di\u011ferine yeti\u015fiyorum’ .. T\u00fcrkiye’den, \u00dcrd\u00fcn’den di\u011fer Arap \u00fclkelerinden gelen yard\u0131mlar..\u00e7o\u011fu cami i\u015flerine.. okul i\u015fleri \u00e7ok s\u0131rada de\u011fil gibi… ne diyelim ayn\u0131 bokun soyuyuz.<\/p>\n

Travnik \u015fehrine geldik. \u00a0Buras\u0131 me\u015fhur dizi\u00a0 “Muhte\u015fem S\u00fcleyman” ile de \u00e7ok g\u00fcndeme geldi. Osmanl\u0131, \u00a0gelecekte sarayda g\u00f6rev alacak potansiyel adaylar i\u00e7in genelde Hristiyan\u00a0\u00e7ocuklar\u0131 dev\u015firirlerdi. Bunun d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda M\u00fcsl\u00fcmanlardan en \u00e7ok Travnik ten \u00a0saraya \u00a0sadrazam yeti\u015fmi\u015ftir. Bu nedenle buras\u0131 sadrazam yeti\u015ftiren \u015fehir olarak da an\u0131l\u0131r. Bir\u00e7ok sadrazam ve \u00fcst d\u00fczey saray g\u00f6revlisi buradan \u00e7\u0131km\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. \u00a0Bu nedenle \u015fehir de \u00e7ok \u00a0fazla say\u0131da cami var. Her saraya giden d\u00f6n\u00fcp burada cami yapt\u0131rm\u0131\u015f.\u00a0\u00a0Foto\u011fraf \u00e7ekti\u011finizde \u00e7ekti\u011finiz \u00a0her kareye en az bir ka\u00e7 cami girer. \u015eehrin en tepesinde Osmanl\u0131 Kalesi, \u00a0b\u00fct\u00fcn \u015fehir ayaklar alt\u0131nda. \u00c7evre gezisi tarihi yerler, d\u00f6n\u00fcyoruz Saraybosna’ya.<\/p>\n

Gerek burada, gerekse yollarda, Saraybosna da her yerde mezarl\u0131klar g\u00f6r\u00fcrs\u00fcn\u00fcz,\u00a0 neredeyse her ye\u015fil alan mezarl\u0131k. O kadar insan nereye g\u00f6m\u00fclecek!<\/p>\n

Esas kavga, H\u0131rvatlar, Bo\u015fnaklar ve S\u0131rplar aras\u0131nda, en \u00e7ok da S\u0131rp ve Bo\u015fnaklar sava\u015fm\u0131\u015f. \u00a0\u015eimdilik kabuk ba\u011flam\u0131\u015f yara gibi. Her an kanayabilir. Dilerim, hi\u00e7 kimse kendinde \u00fcst\u00fcn g\u00fc\u00e7 g\u00f6r\u00fcp yaray\u0131 kanatmas\u0131n, karde\u015flik s\u00fcr\u00fcp gitsin. Asl\u0131nda b\u00f6lge yap\u0131s\u0131 da ilgin\u00e7, \u00a0bu kadar sava\u015f ve katliamlardan sonra bile, S\u0131rbistan da ya\u015fayan bir s\u00fcr\u00fc Bo\u015fnak ve H\u0131rvat, Bosna Hersek te ya\u015fayan bir s\u00fcr\u00fc S\u0131rp ve H\u0131rvat var. B\u00f6lgenin ayr\u0131lmaz demografik yap\u0131s\u0131. Slovenya, kendini Avrupa\u2019ya daha yak\u0131n g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fc ve Avrupa\u2019n\u0131n da korumas\u0131 alt\u0131nda oldu\u011fu i\u00e7in bu kavga ve dala\u015fman\u0131n d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda kalabilmi\u015f.<\/p>\n

Bu co\u011frafya da \u00f6nemli liderlerden biridir Alija \u0130zetbegovi\u00e7, Bosna Hersek\u2019in kurtulu\u015f sava\u015f\u0131nda liderlik yapm\u0131\u015f ve sonras\u0131nda ilk cumhurba\u015fkan\u0131 olmu\u015f, \u00fclkesine b\u00fcy\u00fck faydalar sa\u011flam\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n

**<\/p>\n

Bu g\u00fcn ya\u015fanan baz\u0131 terslikler nedeniyle yola ge\u00e7 \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yoruz. Bosna b\u00f6lgesinden g\u00fcneye do\u011fru Hersek b\u00f6lgesinde \u00e7ok bilinen Mostar’a geliyoruz. Mostar, Bosna-Hersek’te Hersek b\u00f6lgesinin en b\u00fcy\u00fck \u015fehri ve Bosna-Hersek Federasyonu’na ba\u011fl\u0131 Hersek-Neretva Kantonu’nun idar\u00ee merkezi. Neretva Nehri’nin k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda yer alan Mostar, H\u0131rvatlar\u0131n \u00e7o\u011funlukta oldu\u011fu b\u00f6lge. Unesco D\u00fcnya Miras\u0131 listesinde olan Mostar k\u00f6pr\u00fcs\u00fc, Mimar Sinan\u2019\u0131n \u00f6\u011frencisi mimar Hayreddin taraf\u0131ndan 1566 y\u0131l\u0131nda in\u015fa edilmi\u015f, bu g\u00fcn H\u0131rvat ve Bo\u015fnak b\u00f6lgelerini aras\u0131nda ge\u00e7i\u015fi sa\u011flamaktad\u0131r. Bo\u015fnaklar\u0131n ula\u015f\u0131m yollar\u0131n\u0131 k\u0131s\u0131tlamak amac\u0131yla sava\u015fta bombalanan k\u00f6pr\u00fc, daha sonra T\u00fcrkiye\u2019nin de i\u00e7inde oldu\u011fu baz\u0131 \u00fclkeler taraf\u0131ndan asl\u0131na uygun olarak bir T\u00fcrk firmas\u0131 taraf\u0131ndan yeniden in\u015fa edilmi\u015ftir.<\/p>\n

Nerettva nehrinin k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda, k\u00f6pr\u00fcye kar\u015f\u0131 kahve \u00e7ok iyi geldi.. Gene de can\u0131m \u0130stanbul bo\u011faz\u0131\u2026\u00fcst\u00fcne ba\u015fka yer tan\u0131mam.<\/p>\n

Yolumuzun \u00fczerinde, 600 y\u0131l \u00f6nce Anadolu\u2019dan gelen dervi\u015fler taraf\u0131ndan Buna nehrinin kayna\u011f\u0131na kurulmu\u015f Blagay Alperenler Tekkesinde dualar ile kutsal g\u00f6revimizi yap\u0131yoruz.<\/p>\n

Buralarda Osmanl\u0131 uzun y\u0131llar \u00e7ok iz b\u0131rakm\u0131\u015f. Tarihi T\u00fcrk k\u00f6ylerinden biri olan Po\u00e7itelj bunlardan biri.\u00a0 Ge\u00e7mi\u015fte stratejik \u00f6nemi olan tarihi kale, sava\u015fta epey hasar g\u00f6rm\u00fc\u015f.<\/p>\n

HIRVATISTAN<\/strong><\/p>\n

Sabah Bosna Hersek \u00a0ten \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yoruz, geldik \u00a0s\u0131n\u0131ra. Kemal Sunal’\u0131n\u00a0“Propaganda” filminde vard\u0131, do\u011fuda s\u0131n\u0131r bir \u00fclke ile aram\u0131zdaki g\u00fcmr\u00fck kap\u0131s\u0131, bir kul\u00fcbe ve elle inip kalkan s\u0131n\u0131r bariyeri. Burada \u00e7evrilmi\u015f olsa gerek, ayn\u0131s\u0131. \u00a0Neyse i\u015flemler tamam ge\u00e7tik s\u0131n\u0131r\u0131, geldik H\u0131rvatistan\u2019a. Avrupa Birli\u011fi ve Nato \u00fcyesi bir \u00fclke, ama kendi paras\u0131n\u0131 kullan\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

Adriyatik Denizi ha\u015fmetiyle kokusuyla \u00f6n\u00fcm\u00fczde. K\u0131sa bir s\u00fcre sonra Unesco D\u00fcnya Miras\u0131 listesinde olan \u00a0Dubrovnik. 14. y\u00fczy\u0131l sonlar\u0131 \u0130talyan \u00a0Venedik mimarisi tarz\u0131nda in\u015fa edilmi\u015f g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcze kadar gelen tarihi bir kent. \u00a0Elli bin n\u00fcfuslu Dubrovnik \u015fehri H\u0131rvatistan\u2019\u0131n en g\u00f6zde kenti, S\u0131rp sald\u0131r\u0131lar\u0131 sonucu olduk\u00e7a zarar g\u00f6rm\u00fc\u015f ama yenileme \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmalar\u0131 sayesinde eski g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcn\u00fc kazanm\u0131\u015f. Plaj ve botanik bah\u00e7eleri \u00fcn yapm\u0131\u015f Lokrum Adas\u0131, \u015fehri \u00e7evreleyen surlar ve Dubrovnik katedrali \u00f6ne \u00e7\u0131kan yap\u0131lar.\u00a0 Birka\u00e7 kilise hari\u00e7 ziyaret edebilece\u011finiz heryer paral\u0131. Bu kadar kalabal\u0131k olunca yeterince hizmet almakta kolay olmuyor. Gene de g\u00fczel, g\u00f6r\u00fclmesi gereken yerlerden biri.<\/p>\n

H\u0131rvatistan dediysek, bu sefer sadece Dubrovnik\u2019i g\u00f6rmek ile yetindik. \u00a0Asl\u0131nda daha geni\u015f olarak gezilmesi gereken yerlerden biri..<\/p>\n

KARADA\u011e<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u00d6nce Kotor k\u00f6rfezini dola\u015farak Unesco D\u00fcnya Miras\u0131 listesinde olan, surlar i\u00e7inde eski tarihi \u015fehirlerden biri Kotor. \u0130lk duygular m\u00fcthi\u015f, denizin g\u00fczelli\u011fi inan\u0131lmaz. Eski \u015fehrin darac\u0131k sokaklar\u0131nda dola\u015ft\u0131ktan sonra y\u00fcksek kayalar\u0131n tepesine yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f tarihi manast\u0131rdan \u00a0Kotor’u seyrediyoruz. \u00a0Hele g\u00fcne\u015f de biraz al\u00e7al\u0131p ak\u015fam vakti olunca tad\u0131na doyum olmuyor.. G\u00fcne\u015fi tam olarak yolda bat\u0131r\u0131yoruz ve sonra, \u00a0son zamanlarda Balkanlar\u0131n en g\u00f6zde yerlerinde Unesco d\u00fcnya Miras\u0131 listesinde olan 12 bin n\u00fcfuslu sakin ve g\u00fczel \u015fehir Budva..<\/p>\n

Karada\u011f S\u0131rp a\u011f\u0131rl\u0131kl\u0131 bir \u00fclke, \u00a0burada sava\u015f\u0131n derin izleri \u00e7ok yok.\u00a0Adriyatik sahillerinin denizi g\u00fcne\u015fi do\u011fas\u0131 ile en g\u00fczel yerlerinden. B\u00f6lgenin 3.500 y\u0131ll\u0131k en eski yerle\u015fim yerlerinden biri Budva. Tarihi merkez, Roma \u00f6zellikle Venedik mimarisinden esinlenmi\u015f.. Do\u011fal plajlar\u0131, makul \u015fartlarda bal\u0131k ve restoranlar\u0131 ile keyifli bir yer. Dar yollar, ta\u015f binalar, \u00a0bir\u00e7o\u011funun \u00fczerinde i\u015flemler, heykeller, kiliseleri olan etraf\u0131 surlar ile \u00e7evrilmi\u015f eski kent. Buralarda dola\u015fmak \u00e7ok keyifli.\u00a0\u015eu anda yap\u0131lar\u0131n \u00fcst katlar\u0131nda halen ya\u015fayanlar var, onlardan biri ile el salla\u015f\u0131yoruz uzaktan. Bir an bana el sallayan ba\u015f\u0131nda eski geleneksel \u015fapkas\u0131 olan ya\u015fl\u0131 kad\u0131na bakarak d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnd\u00fcm\u2026 yol \u00fczerindeki k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck d\u00fckkan ve kafeleri eskisi gibi\u00a0ya\u015fayan evler d\u00fckkanlar olarak canland\u0131r\u0131n kafan\u0131zda, evlere yollara d\u00f6nemin k\u0131yafetleri ile dola\u015fan insanlar\u0131 yerle\u015ftirin i\u015fte y\u00fczy\u0131llar \u00f6ncesine \u201cge\u00e7mi\u015fe yolculuk\u201d ba\u015fl\u0131yor. Hele bir de eline asa \u00fcst\u00fcne kaftan gibi bir \u015feyler giydin mi, kral bile olursun valla. Vay be bedava krall\u0131k..hayal etti\u011fince ya\u015fars\u0131n, hem keyifli hem bedava..belki ya\u015fl\u0131 teyze de hala eskiyi ya\u015f\u0131yordur..<\/p>\n

T\u00fcrkler buray\u0131 \u00e7oktan ke\u015ffetmi\u015f bile, her yerde kar\u015f\u0131la\u015fmak m\u00fcmk\u00fcn. Buran\u0131n insanlar\u0131 da, gerek 400 y\u0131ll\u0131k Osmanl\u0131 hakimiyetinin miras\u0131, gerek hem\u015ferilerimizin katk\u0131lar\u0131 ile T\u00fcrk\u00e7eyi \u00e7\u00f6zm\u00fc\u015fler. \u0130lgin\u00e7 olan, Karada\u011f Avrupa Birli\u011fi \u00fcyesi de\u011fil, m\u00fcracaat\u0131 bile yok ama Euro kullan\u0131yor, nas\u0131l oluyor bilemedim.<\/p>\n

Araba tutup da\u011flar\u0131n tepesinde kurulmu\u015f, Ge\u00e7mi\u015fte Karada\u011f Krall\u0131\u011f\u0131\u2019n\u0131n be\u015f y\u00fcz y\u0131l k\u00fclt\u00fcr, e\u011fitim merkezi ve ba\u015fkenti 19 bin n\u00fcfusu olan \u00c7etije\u2019ye gidiyorum. \u00c7etinje Manast\u0131r\u0131,\u00a0 Ortodoks d\u00fcnyas\u0131n\u0131n \u00f6nemli merkezlerinden biri ve halen \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131yor. Manast\u0131r ziyaret sonras\u0131 tekrar bir da\u011flara t\u0131rmanma, \u00a0g\u00f6z alabildi\u011fine manzara. En tepede koca bir an\u0131t mezar, belli ki en \u00f6nemli krallardan biri manzaraya kar\u015f\u0131 burada yat\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

Kiralad\u0131\u011f\u0131m araban\u0131n \u015fof\u00f6r\u00fc k\u0131rkl\u0131 ya\u015flarda Robin ile sohbet ediyoruz. O T\u00fcrkiye\u2019yi merak ediyor ben Karada\u011f\u2019\u0131. Son sorum; \u201d\u00dclkenin par\u00e7alanmadan \u00f6nceki hali, yani Yugoslavya zaman\u0131 m\u0131 daha iyiydi, \u015fimdi ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131z devlet olunca m\u0131\u201c. \u00d6nce biraz d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnd\u00fc, \u201cdo\u011frusu, orta ve \u00fcst\u00fc ya\u015fl\u0131 olanlar\u0131n neredeyse hepsi, eski g\u00fc\u00e7l\u00fc devlet Yugoslavya\u2019y\u0131 ar\u0131yor. Gen\u00e7lerin \u00e7o\u011fu bu hali yani ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131\u011f\u0131 tercih ediyor. Farkl\u0131 gruplar vard\u0131 ama bir arada ya\u015fayabilirdik. Bu g\u00fcn ayr\u0131 devletiz, ama hi\u00e7 bir \u015feyimiz yok. Tek gelirimiz turizm, siz gelmezseniz a\u00e7\u0131z.\u00a0 Burada sanayi yok, her taraf da\u011fl\u0131k tar\u0131m yok.. fazla i\u015f imkan\u0131 yok..yani herkesin gelecek endi\u015fesi var, \u00e7o\u011fu ba\u015fka \u00fclkelere gitmek istiyor…\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cD\u0131\u015f\u0131 seni yakar i\u00e7i beni\u201d demi\u015f adam\u0131n biri. \u0130\u015fte b\u00f6yle bir \u015fey\u2026<\/p>\n

Son ak\u015fam\u0131n keyiflini bal\u0131k \u015farap ile \u00e7\u0131kart\u0131yoruz.<\/p>\n

**<\/p>\n

Orta ya\u015f\u0131 olanlar, Tito\u2019n\u0131n Yugoslavya’s\u0131n\u0131 hat\u0131rlar. \u00a0Avrupa\u2019n\u0131n g\u00fc\u00e7l\u00fc ve b\u00fcy\u00fcmekte olan \u00fclkesiydi. Gerek savunma sanayi, gerek end\u00fcstride epey yol alm\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Yani Avrupa\u2019da \u00a0b\u00fcy\u00fcyen ekonomi. Kim tahamm\u00fcl eder buna!. Y\u00f6ntem kolay, par\u00e7alay\u0131p da\u011f\u0131tmak. \u00d6yle de oldu. Nas\u0131l oynan\u0131yor bu oyun; kiliseler ve egemen g\u00fc\u00e7ler, farkl\u0131 etnik gruplar\u0131, ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131k ba\u015fl\u0131\u011f\u0131 alt\u0131nda \u00f6rg\u00fctleyip, kar\u015f\u0131 \u00e7\u0131kabilecek kitleleri de yok edip, katledip, kalanlara ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131k referandumu yapt\u0131rarak yeni k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck g\u00fc\u00e7s\u00fcz ve zay\u0131f devler yaratmak Sonu\u00e7; un ufak olan koca Yugoslavya. Bu g\u00fcn ve yar\u0131n bu yeni \u00fclkelerin hi\u00e7 biri hi\u00e7 kimse i\u00e7in tehdit olabilecek yap\u0131da de\u011fil. Hi\u00e7 birinde geli\u015fmi\u015f sanayi ve ekonomi yok. Oyun eski ama halen ge\u00e7erli. Peki, bu \u00fclkeler hangileri, anlamak \u00e7ok kolay, referandumdan sonra onlar\u0131 ilk tan\u0131yan \u00fclkeler. Yugoslavya i\u00e7in kim bunlar, tarihe bak\u0131n ilk tan\u0131yan pezevenkler, par\u00e7alanman\u0131n mimar\u0131 olanlar.<\/p>\n

T\u00fcrkiye ve Orta do\u011fu \u00fclkeleri \u00fczerinde oynan da ayn\u0131 tezgah. Son y\u0131llarda g\u00fcya ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131k ba\u015fl\u0131\u011f\u0131 alt\u0131nda onlarca ter\u00f6r gruplar\u0131 yarat\u0131ld\u0131, hepsinin din maskesi var, hepsi katliamlar\u0131 ve \u00f6ld\u00fcrmeleri din ad\u0131na \u0130slamiyet ad\u0131na Allah ad\u0131na yap\u0131yor. Kim yapt\u0131r\u0131yor, tabii ki \u00a0\u00a0bunlar\u0131 yarat\u0131p \u2018bar\u0131\u015fa bizim de katk\u0131m\u0131z olsun\u2019! diye destekleyen, besleyen silahland\u0131ran \u00fclkeler.\u00a0 Kar\u015f\u0131 kitleleri yok edip, b\u00f6lgeye yanda\u015f partizan yerle\u015fince, ortam uygun olunca oylama zaman\u0131, referandum yapt\u0131r\u0131p ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131k diye topraklar\u0131 par\u00e7alamak, da\u011f\u0131tmak.Balkanlar da hep ayn\u0131 oyun sahnelendi. \u015eu anda G\u00fcney Do\u011fu da Suriye\u2019de Orta Do\u011fu da oyun, net ayn\u0131 senaryo. Yak\u0131nda Suriye ve Irak ta ortam olu\u015funca referandum konusu g\u00fcndeme gelir ve son perde, ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131z \u00fclke olarak ayr\u0131lma, zay\u0131f muhta\u00e7 her \u015feye ihtiyac\u0131 olan yeni \u00fclke….yeni Pazar..gelsin paralar..<\/p>\n

Potansiyel g\u00fc\u00e7l\u00fc \u00fclkeye yer yok.. kar\u015f\u0131 durmak imkans\u0131z m\u0131, kesin de\u011fil her oyun bozulur, hatta kar\u015f\u0131 oyun bile uygulan\u0131r. \u0130ki yar\u0131mdan bir b\u00fct\u00fcn \u00e7\u0131km\u0131yor\u2026birlikte b\u00fct\u00fcn olma zaman\u0131.. daha \u00e7ok uyan\u0131k olma zaman\u0131..<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Sevgilerimle<\/p>\n

Hayrettin Kagnici<\/p>\n

Eyl\u00fcl 2016<\/p>\n

www.hayrettinkagnici.com<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

BALKANLAR Balkanlar\u0131 anlamak i\u00e7in \u00f6nce eski Yugoslavya\u2019n\u0131n siyasi tarihini k\u0131saca hat\u0131rlamak gerekir. 2,D\u00fcnya Sava\u015f\u0131 s\u0131ras\u0131nda direni\u015f ger\u00e7ekle\u015ftiren Yugoslavya partizanlar\u0131 i\u00e7 sava\u015flar sonucu ya\u015fanan y\u00f6netim zafiyetleri nedeniyle, 1943 y\u0131l\u0131nda \u00fclkenin ad\u0131 Demokratik Federal Yugoslavya\u00a0,1946 da Yugoslavya Federal Halk Cumhuriyeti, son olarak da 1963 y\u0131l\u0131nda\u00a0Yugoslavya Sosyalist Federal Cumhuriyeti olmu\u015ftur. Tito\u2019yu da hat\u0131rlamak gerekir. May\u0131s 1892 de H\u0131rvat […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":8212,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[13],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-8368","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-gezi-notlari"],"yoast_head":"\nBalkanlar - Hayrettin Ka\u011fn\u0131c\u0131 Resmi Web Sitesi<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/hayrettinkagnici.com\/tr\/?p=8368\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"tr_TR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Balkanlar - Hayrettin Ka\u011fn\u0131c\u0131 Resmi Web Sitesi\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"BALKANLAR Balkanlar\u0131 anlamak i\u00e7in \u00f6nce eski Yugoslavya\u2019n\u0131n siyasi tarihini k\u0131saca hat\u0131rlamak gerekir. 2,D\u00fcnya Sava\u015f\u0131 s\u0131ras\u0131nda direni\u015f ger\u00e7ekle\u015ftiren Yugoslavya partizanlar\u0131 i\u00e7 sava\u015flar sonucu ya\u015fanan y\u00f6netim zafiyetleri nedeniyle, 1943 y\u0131l\u0131nda \u00fclkenin ad\u0131 Demokratik Federal Yugoslavya\u00a0,1946 da Yugoslavya Federal Halk Cumhuriyeti, son olarak da 1963 y\u0131l\u0131nda\u00a0Yugoslavya Sosyalist Federal Cumhuriyeti olmu\u015ftur. 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