{"id":15901,"date":"2025-03-03T20:43:48","date_gmt":"2025-03-03T17:43:48","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/hayrettinkagnici.com\/tr\/?p=15901"},"modified":"2025-03-04T15:41:00","modified_gmt":"2025-03-04T12:41:00","slug":"surinam","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/hayrettinkagnici.com\/tr\/surinam\/","title":{"rendered":"Surinam Cumhuriyeti"},"content":{"rendered":"

G\u00fcney Amerika\u2019n\u0131n kuzeyinde Frans\u0131z Guyanas\u0131 ba\u015fkenti Cayenne\u2019den yola \u00e7\u0131karak 170 km sonra Laurent du Maroi de \u00f6\u011fle yeme\u011fi sonras\u0131nda \u00a0 kano benzeri k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck teknelerle nehrin kar\u015f\u0131 sahilinde Surinam\u2019\u0131n sahil \u015fehri olan Albina\u2019ya geldik.<\/p>\n

\u00dclkeye giri\u015f yapaca\u011f\u0131z ama g\u00fcmr\u00fck g\u00f6revlileri valiz kontrol bankosunda uzanm\u0131\u015f hafiften kestiriyorlar. Bizi g\u00f6r\u00fcnce \u201cnerden \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131lar bunlarda” der gibi bakt\u0131lar, neyse yava\u015ftan hareketlerle odalar\u0131na ge\u00e7tiler, \u00f6nce formlar, pasaportlar kontrol epey bir s\u00fcre sonunda Surinam’a giri\u015f yapt\u0131k. \u00a0Genelde Havaalanlar\u0131 d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda \u00e7ok kullan\u0131lmayan g\u00fcmr\u00fck kap\u0131lar\u0131ndan giri\u015f yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131zda benzer olaylar hep olur, bekli de bu kap\u0131dan T\u00fcrk pasaportu ile ilk giren biz olduk.<\/p>\n

Bekleyen minib\u00fcs ile \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131k yola 3 saat sonra Surinam nehri k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda, Surinam ba\u015f\u015fehir Paramaribo ya geldik. Do\u011frusu ortal\u0131\u011fa bak\u0131l\u0131rsa g\u00fczel restoranlar, model arabalar, yollar insanlar bekledi\u011fimiz \u00fcst\u00fcnde. Ak\u015fam k\u0131sa bir \u00e7evre turu, aral\u0131k ay\u0131 \u00fc\u00e7\u00fcnc\u00fc haftas\u0131, y\u0131lba\u015f\u0131 haz\u0131rl\u0131klar\u0131 tamam, e\u011flence havas\u0131na girmi\u015f insanlar.<\/p>\n

**<\/p>\n

Sabah Atlas Okyanusu’ndan 15 km i\u00e7eride, Surinam Nehri k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda 260 bin n\u00fcfusu olan farkl\u0131 k\u00fclt\u00fcrl\u00fc etnik yap\u0131s\u0131 ve Amsterdam ile vah\u015fi bat\u0131n\u0131n adeta bir sentezi olan mimarisiyle Guyanalar\u0131n en dinamik ba\u015fkentlerinden biri olan Paramaribo\u2019yu tan\u0131ma turu. Unesco Tarihi miras Listesi\u2019nde olan eski \u015fehir b\u00f6lgesi, y\u00f6reye \u00f6zg\u00fc ah\u015fap binalar, pazar alan\u0131, kilise cami, sinagog epey hareketli bir yer.<\/p>\n

Do\u011frusu biraz \u015fa\u015fk\u0131nl\u0131k i\u00e7indeyim. \u00a0Modern arabalar, g\u00fczel binalar, s\u00f6m\u00fcrge d\u00f6nemine ait restore edilmi\u015f binalar, bak\u0131ml\u0131 d\u00fczg\u00fcn \u015fehir. Tabii ki iki arka sokaklara giderseniz sefaletin oldu\u011fu ortalarda dola\u015fan insanlardan da anla\u015f\u0131l\u0131yor. \u00a0Az geli\u015fmi\u015f \u00fclkelerin tamam\u0131nda ayn\u0131 durumu g\u00f6rmek m\u00fcmk\u00fcn, genelde orta tabaka halk yok olmu\u015f, yolsuzluklar sonucu h\u0131zla zenginle\u015fen l\u00fcks i\u00e7inde ya\u015fayan bir kesim. \u00a0Bir tarafta zenginlik, bolca kumarhaneler ve di\u011ferleri.<\/p>\n

Ge\u00e7mi\u015fte k\u00f6le ticaretini yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 yer ve ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131k meydan\u0131, hikayesi bol bir yer. Afrika\u2019dan k\u00f6le olarak getirilen Maron etnik gurubun geleneksel k\u0131yafetlerinin sat\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck \u00f6l\u00e7ekte bir pazarday\u0131z. Bol renkli, her desenin bir anlam\u0131 olan k\u0131yafetler.<\/p>\n

**<\/p>\n

Kocaman bak\u0131ml\u0131 bir camiye geldik, girelim bakal\u0131m dedik, yok olmaz sadece sal\u0131 ve cuma g\u00fcnleri a\u00e7\u0131km\u0131\u015f, T\u00fcrkiye\u2019den geldik namaz k\u0131laca\u011f\u0131z dedik, yar\u0131n gel iki g\u00fcnl\u00fck k\u0131lars\u0131n dedi g\u00f6revli bek\u00e7i! \u00a0Hangi mezhep tarikat oldu\u011funu \u00f6\u011frenemedim. Burada M\u00fcsl\u00fcman n\u00fcfus var b\u00f6yle olunca da camiye rastlamak m\u00fcmk\u00fcn. \u00a0Hemen yan\u0131nda Yahudi cemaatine ait bir Sinagog, burada 150 Yahudi var, Sinagoga gelen 80 cemaati varm\u0131\u015f. Gene de \u00a0\u00a0temiz ve bak\u0131ml\u0131 bir mabet.<\/p>\n

Hava s\u0131cak ve rutubetli. Surinaml\u0131 rehber burada sinagog ve cami yan yana, otoparklar\u0131 ortak, y\u0131llard\u0131r park konusunda iki cemaat aras\u0131nda hi\u00e7 sorun ya\u015fanmad\u0131 kendi aralar\u0131nda gayet iyi kom\u015fuluk ili\u015fkileri var her konuda yard\u0131mla\u015f\u0131yorlar da Orta do\u011fuda neden sava\u015f\u0131yorlar, neden birbirlerini \u00f6ld\u00fcr\u00fcyorlar sebep ne? diye sordu. Soru zor yerden geldi, cevap veremedik!<\/p>\n

Dola\u015f\u0131yoruz, Paramaribo sokaklar\u0131nda gayet g\u00fczel klimal\u0131 ma\u011fazalar, geni\u015f yollar, renkli insanlar en \u00f6nemlisi \u0131\u015f\u0131klara ve trafik kurallar\u0131na uyan insanlar. Semt pazar\u0131na gidiyoruz, tam istedi\u011fim yer. Buralar toplumun ger\u00e7ek y\u00fcz\u00fcd\u00fcr, renkli g\u00fczel her \u00e7e\u015fit insan, her \u00e7e\u015fit sebze meyve, bulabilirsiniz.<\/p>\n

G\u00f6r\u00fclmesi gereken yerlerden biri de 1911’de tamamlanan \u015fehir merkezinde Roma Katolik katedrali, G\u00fcney Amerika’daki en b\u00fcy\u00fck ah\u015fap kiliselerinden biri. Gayet iyi korunmu\u015f ve halen \u00e7al\u0131\u015fan tamamen ah\u015fap yap\u0131 olan kilise Unesco D\u00fcnya Miras\u0131 Alan\u0131’n\u0131n bir par\u00e7as\u0131.<\/p>\n

Paramaribo yak\u0131nlar\u0131nda iki b\u00fcy\u00fck nehir, suriname ve commewinje nehirlerinin birle\u015fip Atlantik Okyanusuna d\u00f6k\u00fcld\u00fc\u011f\u00fc b\u00f6lgede ya\u015fayan, \u0130lk zamanlar pembe, b\u00fcy\u00fcd\u00fck\u00e7e renkleri siyaha d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015fen yunuslar\u0131 g\u00f6rmeye gidiyoruz.<\/p>\n

K\u0131sa ya\u011fmur ge\u00e7i\u015fleri sonras\u0131 g\u00fcne\u015f, s\u0131cak, rutubet, burada hayat kolay de\u011fil. Kano benzeri ince uzun teknelerle iki nehrin birle\u015fti\u011fi yerde dola\u015f\u0131yoruz, pembe yunuslar gelsin de g\u00f6relim diye. Nehir\u00a0dedi\u011fimiz de deniz gibi yani. Dola\u015f\u0131yoruz ortalarda yunus falan yok, olmad\u0131 karaya \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131k yak\u0131nda bir k\u00f6ydeyiz, do\u011fa orman muhte\u015fem. Tekrar nehir de dola\u015f\u0131yoruz, anla\u015f\u0131lan yunuslarda bizi merak etmi\u015fler ki ortalarda dola\u015fmaya ba\u015flad\u0131lar. Yavru yunuslar pembe renk, b\u00fcy\u00fcd\u00fck\u00e7e grile\u015fmeye ba\u015fl\u0131yorlar, sadece kar\u0131n b\u00f6lgesi pembe kal\u0131yor. Bir s\u00fcre beraber olduktan sonra herkes yoluna. Keyifli g\u00fczel deneyim.<\/p>\n

Ak\u015fam g\u00fczel restoranda g\u00fczel yemek keyifli sohbetle ile g\u00fcn\u00fc tamamlad\u0131k.<\/p>\n

Dikkati \u00e7ekecek kadar \u00e7ok say\u0131da kumarhane var, kald\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z otelin giri\u015finde de b\u00fcy\u00fck bir alana yay\u0131lm\u0131\u015f kumarhane, m\u00fc\u015fteri de var, genelde dolu. Garip bir durum ama \u00e7o\u011funlu\u011fu yerli halk, kumar masas\u0131n\u0131n birini izliyorum, dolarlar havada u\u00e7uyor. Belli ki organize i\u015fler d\u00fcnyas\u0131, kolay kazand\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131z paray\u0131 kolay harcars\u0131n\u0131z. Adam koltu\u011fa yan oturmu\u015f bir taraftan sohbet ediyor, bir taraftan kumar makinesinin kolunu \u00e7ekiyor. Seyrettim bir s\u00fcre, derdi de\u011fil gibi ne oldu\u011fu, sadece kol \u00e7ekme tatmini gibi bir \u015fey.<\/p>\n

**<\/p>\n

Surinam ge\u00e7mi\u015fi, k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fc yap\u0131s\u0131 nedir diye k\u0131saca bakal\u0131m.<\/p>\n

Surinam Cumhuriyeti, G\u00fcney Amerika k\u0131tas\u0131n\u0131n Atlantik k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda yer alan egemen bir devlettir. G\u00fcneyde Brezilya, bat\u0131da Guyana ve do\u011fuda Frans\u0131z Guyanas\u0131 ile s\u0131n\u0131r\u0131 vard\u0131r. 165.000 km\u00b2’lik y\u00fcz\u00f6l\u00e7\u00fcm\u00fc ile G\u00fcney Amerika’n\u0131n en k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck \u00fclkesidir. 600 bin n\u00fcfusu olan \u00fclkede b\u00fcy\u00fck \u00e7o\u011funluk kuzey k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda ba\u015fkent Paramaribo da ya\u015famaktad\u0131r.<\/p>\n

    \n
  1. y\u00fczy\u0131lda \u0130spanyol denizciler taraf\u0131ndan ke\u015ffedilmi\u015f, 17. Y\u00fczy\u0131lda \u0130ngiliz s\u00f6m\u00fcrgesi olmu\u015f, 1667’de ise Hollanda-\u0130ngiltere Sava\u015f\u0131 sonucunda Breda Antla\u015fmas\u0131 ile Hollanda s\u00f6m\u00fcrgesi olmu\u015f. 1975’te Surinam Hollanda Krall\u0131\u011f\u0131’ndan ayr\u0131l\u0131p ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 kazanm\u0131\u015f. Halen Hollanda ile ekonomik diplomatik ve k\u00fclt\u00fcrel ba\u011flar\u0131 kuvvetli \u015fekilde devam etmektedir.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

    S\u00f6m\u00fcrge d\u00f6neminde, Surinam Cemiyeti adl\u0131 Hollanda \u00f6zel \u015firket etraf\u0131ndan nehirlerin etraf\u0131nda plantasyonlar kurulmu\u015f ve burada ihtiya\u00e7 olan i\u015fg\u00fcc\u00fc i\u00e7in Afrika’dan k\u00f6leler getirilmi\u015fti. Ancak bu k\u00f6lelerden baz\u0131lar\u0131 koloninin i\u00e7 kesimlerine ka\u00e7arak kendi toplumlar\u0131n\u0131 kurmu\u015flar. Koloni 1795’te millile\u015ftirilmi\u015f, 1863’te ise k\u00f6lelik yasaklanm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n

    Afrikal\u0131lar\u0131n d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda da plantasyonlardaki i\u015fg\u00fcc\u00fc a\u00e7\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131n giderilmesi i\u00e7in Do\u011fu Hint Adalar\u0131 ve Hindistan’dan da i\u015f\u00e7iler getirilmi\u015f, zaman i\u00e7inde gelen i\u015f\u00e7ilerin \u00e7ocuklar\u0131 burada kendi kom\u00fcnlerini kurmu\u015flar e ticarete ba\u015flam\u0131\u015flar. Surinam da tekstil, g\u0131da gibi baz\u0131 konularda Hintliler etkindirler.<\/p>\n

    Surinam da \u00e7ok say\u0131da, etnik, dini ve dilsel gruplar bulunur. \u00dclkede soylar\u0131 buraya \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmak i\u00e7in gelen i\u015f\u00e7ilere dayanan Hintler en b\u00fcy\u00fck etnik grup olurken, soylar\u0131 Afrikal\u0131 k\u00f6lelere dayanan Maronlar ise ikinci s\u0131rada yer al\u0131r. Orman\u0131n siyah insanlar\u0131 anlam\u0131na gelen Maronlar, ge\u00e7mi\u015fte plantasyonlardan ka\u00e7arak Surinam’\u0131n i\u00e7 kesimlerine yerle\u015fen ve k\u00f6lele\u015ftirilmi\u015f Afrikal\u0131lar\u0131n torunlar\u0131d\u0131r. Surinam Maron k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fc, Afrika d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda en iyi korunmu\u015f k\u00fclt\u00fcrel miras par\u00e7alar\u0131ndan biridir . S\u00f6m\u00fcrge sava\u015flar\u0131, toprak gasplar\u0131, do\u011fal afetler ve g\u00f6\u00e7ler, Maron tarihini belirleyen en \u00f6nemli fakt\u00f6rlerdir. Surinam’da birbirleri ile yak\u0131nl\u0131\u011f\u0131 olan alt\u0131 farkl\u0131 Maron grubu veya kabilesi ulunur.<\/p>\n

    Ayr\u0131ca, Afrikal\u0131 ve beyaz \u0131rk\u0131n kar\u0131\u015f\u0131m\u0131 Kreollar melez \u0131rk olup \u00e7o\u011funluktad\u0131rlar. Felemenk\u00e7e resm\u00ee stat\u00fcye sahip prestij dil olurken, halk\u0131n \u00f6nemli bir k\u0131sm\u0131 da \u0130ngilizce temelli Kreolce bir dil olan Sranan Tongo dili konu\u015fmaktad\u0131r. Yani Surinam da neredeyse herkesle \u0130ngilizce anla\u015fabilirsiniz.<\/p>\n

    Demografik yap\u0131ya bakarsak; %27’si Kreol, %23’\u00fc Do\u011fu Hintli , %18’i \u00e7ok Irkl\u0131 , %16’s\u0131 k\u00f6lele\u015ftirilmi\u015f Afrikal\u0131lar\u0131n torunlar\u0131 Maronlar, %10’u Cava , %2’si yerli , %1,5’i \u00c7inli ve \u00e7o\u011funlukla Hollandal\u0131 ve Portekiz k\u00f6kenli olan az say\u0131da Avrupal\u0131 ayr\u0131ca L\u00fcbnanl\u0131 ve Yahudi olmak \u00fczere \u00e7e\u015fitli etnik yap\u0131 mevcuttur. Ge\u00e7ti\u011fimiz on y\u0131llarda Paramaribo’ya \u00f6nemli say\u0131da Brezilyal\u0131, Guyanal\u0131 ve yeni \u00c7inli g\u00f6\u00e7men yerle\u015fmi\u015ftir.<\/p>\n

    2020 verilerine g\u00f6re \u00fclkenin %52,3’\u00fc Hristiyan, %18,8’i Hindu, %14,3’\u00fc M\u00fcsl\u00fcman, %5,6’s\u0131 yerel halk dinlerine inanmaktad\u0131r. Budizm ve Yahudilik inanc\u0131na mensup birey say\u0131s\u0131 her biri i\u00e7in %1’in alt\u0131ndad\u0131r, %1,9’u ise geriye kalan di\u011fer dinlere mensuptur. Herhangi bir dine ba\u011fl\u0131 olmayanlar\u0131n n\u00fcfusa oran\u0131 %6,2’dir.<\/p>\n

    Paramaribo, s\u00f6m\u00fcrge d\u00f6neminde ve Surinam’\u0131n 1975 ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131k sonras\u0131nda da Surinam’\u0131n ba\u015fkenti olarak kalm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Eski \u015fehir y\u0131llar i\u00e7inde bir\u00e7ok y\u0131k\u0131c\u0131 yang\u0131na maruz kalm\u0131\u015f, \u00f6zellikle Ocak 1821’de 400’den fazla bina ve Eyl\u00fcl 1832’de 50 bina yang\u0131n sonucu yok olmu\u015ftur.<\/p>\n

    Paramaribo, Surinam’\u0131n i\u015f ve finans merkezidir ve \u00f6nemli derece de \u00fcretim olmasa da \u00fclkenin ba\u015fl\u0131ca ihracat \u00fcr\u00fcnleri olan alt\u0131n, petrol, boksit, pirin\u00e7 ve tropikal a\u011fa\u00e7tan elde edilen gelirlerin neredeyse tamam\u0131 buradaki \u015firketler taraf\u0131ndan ger\u00e7ekle\u015ftirilir. T\u00fcm bankalar, sigorta \u015firketleri ve di\u011fer finansal ve ticari \u015firketlerin genel merkezleri Paramaribo’dad\u0131r. Surinam’\u0131n GSY\u0130H’sinin yakla\u015f\u0131k %75\u2019i burada ger\u00e7ekle\u015fir.<\/p>\n

      \n
    1. ve 18. y\u00fczy\u0131llarda Hollanda s\u00f6m\u00fcrge kasabas\u0131 olarak kurulan, Surinam Nehri’nin sol k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda bulunan Paramaribo tarihi \u015fehir merkezi, 2002 y\u0131l\u0131nda Unesco D\u00fcnya Miras\u0131 Alan\u0131 ilan edildi. Binalar\u0131n orijinal mimarisi ve sokak planlar\u0131 b\u00fcy\u00fck \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fcde bozulmadan korunmu\u015f.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

      Ticaret ve i\u015f hayat\u0131 genelde, \u00c7inli, Hintli ve Hollandal\u0131lar\u0131n elinde, T\u00fcrkiye\u2019ye g\u00f6re ucuz say\u0131lmaz. K\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck olaylar\u0131n d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda kriminal olaylar yok denecek kadar az, yani beklemedi\u011finiz kadar g\u00fcvenli say\u0131labilecek bir \u00fclke.<\/p>\n

      **<\/strong><\/p>\n

      Sabah arazi \u015fartlar\u0131na uygun donan\u0131ml\u0131 d\u00f6rt \u00e7eker ara\u00e7la Surinam’\u0131n g\u00fcneyine browmsberg do\u011fal park\u0131na gidiyoruz.<\/p>\n

        \n
      1. y\u00fczy\u0131ldan beri alt\u0131n aray\u0131c\u0131lar\u0131n ilgisini \u00e7eken \u00e7ok say\u0131da bitki ve hayvan t\u00fcr\u00fcne ev sahipli\u011fi yapan 12.000 hektar ormanl\u0131k alan 1969 y\u0131l\u0131ndan bu yana ziyarete a\u00e7\u0131k ayr\u0131ca konaklama ve restoran gibi sosyal yerlerde bulunuyor.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

        \u00dclkenin ortalar\u0131na kadar geldik, yoldan ayr\u0131larak ormanl\u0131k alana do\u011fru yol al\u0131yoruz. Amazon ormanlar\u0131n\u0131n en g\u00fcney ucu. Yollar giderek bozulmaya koca ara\u00e7 zorlanmaya ba\u015flad\u0131. Killi toprak, ya\u011fmurdan iyice kayganla\u015fm\u0131\u015f, araba yan yan gidiyor, kaymak ile gitmek aras\u0131 bir \u015fekilde yol al\u0131yoruz. Zorlanmaya ba\u015flad\u0131k, riskli yerlerde ara\u00e7tan inip y\u00fcr\u00fcyerek yola devam, maceran\u0131n i\u00e7indeyiz. Sallan yuvarlan zirveye gelebildik. Ger\u00e7ekten zorlu yol. Yan\u0131m\u0131zda getirdi\u011fimiz \u00f6\u011fle yeme\u011fi kumanyalar\u0131n\u0131 hallettikten sonra hafif dinleme ve sonra orman\u0131n derinliklerinde bir yerde \u015felaleye gidiyoruz. Hava gayet g\u00fczel, orman\u0131n derinliklerine dalmaya ba\u015flad\u0131k. Sadece rehber yolu biliyor, yolu kaybedip kaybolursan d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f zor olabilir, hayat\u0131n\u0131n kalan k\u0131sm\u0131 burada ge\u00e7irirsin. Yolumuza \u00e7\u0131kan dallar\u0131 kesmek veya ihtiya\u00e7 durumunda kullanmak i\u00e7in elimizde pala ile a\u011fa\u00e7lar\u0131n aras\u0131ndan y\u00fcr\u00fcyoruz. Tam olarak cang\u0131l. Ve i\u015fte macera ba\u015flad\u0131, ara\u00e7tan epey uzakla\u015fm\u0131\u015fken delicesine ya\u011fmur bast\u0131rd\u0131, oysa 15 dakika \u00f6nce hava gayet g\u00fczeldi ayr\u0131ca iki g\u00fcnd\u00fcr hava gayet ve de s\u0131cakt\u0131. Baz\u0131lar\u0131m\u0131zda ya\u011fmurluk benzeri bir \u015feyler var ama yetmiyor, ya\u011fmur kur\u015fun gibi \u00fczerimize geliyor. Ayr\u0131ca patika yollar da kayganla\u015ft\u0131, yoku\u015f a\u015fa\u011f\u0131 kaymamak i\u00e7in dallara, a\u011fa\u00e7lara tutunarak iniyoruz. \u00a0S\u00f6ylentiler ba\u015flad\u0131,\u00a0nerden geldik, ne olacak nas\u0131l d\u00f6nece\u011fiz gibi hafiften paniklemeler. Ya\u011fmur tanr\u0131s\u0131na ne k\u00f6t\u00fcl\u00fck ettiysek biz s\u00f6ylendik\u00e7e daha da \u015fiddetleniyor. Art\u0131k \u0131slanmad\u0131k yerimiz kalmad\u0131, ya\u011fmuru hissetmemeye ba\u015flad\u0131k, dere gibi akan sular\u0131n i\u00e7inden d\u00fc\u015fmeden y\u00fcr\u00fcmek derdindeyiz. Tek derdim, \u00fczerimdeki har \u015feyi kullanarak korumaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131m foto\u011fraf makinam\u0131 \u0131slanmadan kurtarabilmek. \u015eelaleye tam ula\u015fm\u0131\u015ft\u0131k, geri d\u00f6nme karar\u0131. Geriye d\u00f6nmeye \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131yoruz ama yerler \u00e7ok kayganla\u015ft\u0131, ayaklar\u0131n\u0131z\u0131n aras\u0131ndan sular seller ak\u0131yor. Neyse sonunda bir sakatl\u0131k olmadan araca gelebildik.\u00a0Sonra ne oldu tahmin edin, o deli ya\u011fmur birden durdu ve g\u00fcne\u015f a\u00e7t\u0131. Herkes ba\u015ftan a\u015fa\u011f\u0131 \u0131slak ve \u00e7amur i\u00e7inde., geldik otele. Tek tesellim, foto\u011fraf makinemi kurtarabilmi\u015ftim, geriye kalan\u0131 an\u0131lar\u0131ma heyecan olarak kaydettim. B\u00fct\u00fcn bunlara ra\u011fmen muhte\u015fem do\u011fa, \u00e7ok g\u00fczel orman. Asl\u0131nda bunlar tabiat anan\u0131n “beni \u00e7ok \u00fcz\u00fcyorsunuz” \u015feklinde verdi\u011fi mesajd\u0131.<\/p>\n

        Ak\u015fam g\u00fcn\u00fcn tad\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7\u0131karan keyifli yeme ile g\u00fcn\u00fc tamamlad\u0131k.<\/p>\n

        **<\/p>\n

        Surinam ba\u015fkenti Paramaribo\u2019yu y\u00fcr\u00fcyerek dola\u015f\u0131yoruz, bakal\u0131m sosyal hayat, \u00e7ar\u015f\u0131 pazar nas\u0131lm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

        Yeni yap\u0131larda, Avrupa mimarisi ve in\u015faat tekniklerinin G\u00fcney Amerika’ya \u00f6zg\u00fc k\u00fclt\u00fcrel malzemeler ve el sanatlar\u0131n\u0131n kademeli olarak bir araya getirilerek yeni bir mimari tarz yarat\u0131lm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

        1680-1800 y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131ndaki kentsel doku, son otuz y\u0131ldaki d\u00fc\u015f\u00fck ekonomi nedeniyle b\u00fcy\u00fck bir altyap\u0131 yenilenmesi yap\u0131lamad\u0131\u011f\u0131 halde halen kullan\u0131l\u0131yor. Yeni yap\u0131larda da bina hatlar\u0131 fazla de\u011fi\u015ftirilmemi\u015f ve \u015fehir merkezinde y\u00fcksek katl\u0131 binalar in\u015fa edilmemi\u015f. Geleneksel yap\u0131lar\u0131n ah\u015fap olmas\u0131 nedeniyle yang\u0131na kar\u015f\u0131 savunmas\u0131z oldu\u011fundan ge\u00e7mi\u015fte bir\u00e7ok defa yang\u0131nlar sonucunda b\u00fcy\u00fck hasarlar olmu\u015f.<\/p>\n

        Dola\u015f\u0131yoruz \u015fehrin arka sokaklar\u0131n\u0131. \u00c7evreyi ve insanlar\u0131 \u00f6\u011frenmenin, tan\u0131man\u0131n en do\u011fru yollar\u0131ndan biri de y\u00fcr\u00fcyerek dola\u015fmak. Geleneksel bol renkli k\u0131yafetlerin sergilendi\u011fi m\u00fczedeyiz, ne kadar ho\u015f ve bol renkli kifayetler, farkl\u0131 anlamlar\u0131 olan \u015fapkalar ve ba\u015f \u00f6rt\u00fcleri. M\u00fcze yetkilisi kibar zarif bir han\u0131m, sohbet ediyoruz, Surinam\u2019\u0131n gelenekleri hakk\u0131nda, laf aras\u0131nda T\u00fcrkiye\u2019ye gelmek Mardin \u015fehrine gitmeyi \u00e7ok arzu etti\u011fini s\u00f6yleyince nedenini merak ettim. Mardin ile ilgili T\u00fcrk dizileri seyretti\u011fini ve bu k\u00fclt\u00fcr \u015fehrini g\u00f6rmeyi \u00e7ok arzu etti\u011fini s\u00f6yledi.<\/p>\n

        Bir sanat galerisindeyiz, heykel ve tekstil \u00fczerine i\u015flemler, ger\u00e7ekten \u00e7ok g\u00fczel ve yarat\u0131c\u0131 de\u011ferleri y\u00fcksek olan eserler var. Genelde i\u015flenen konular ge\u00e7mi\u015fte ya\u015fanan k\u00f6leli\u011fin izleri. Bir eserden \u00e7ok etkilendim, karanl\u0131k d\u00fcnyada, kafes i\u00e7inde beyaz sal\u0131ncakta sallanan beyazlar giymi\u015f afrikal\u0131. Sizde kendi yorumunuzu yap\u0131n. Baz\u0131 durumlarda \u00f6n yarg\u0131l\u0131 olmamak laz\u0131m. Belli iyi sanat\u00e7\u0131lar var.<\/p>\n

        Bak\u0131ml\u0131 ve g\u00fczel korunmu\u015f s\u00f6m\u00fcrge d\u00f6neminden kalma evler, kiliseler ve sonunda d\u00fczenli ve bak\u0131ml\u0131 y\u00fczlerce palmiye a\u011fa\u00e7lar\u0131n\u0131n oldu\u011fu yerde yorgunluk kahvesi.<\/p>\n

        Meydanlardan birinde Simon Bolivar\u2019\u0131n heykeli, G\u00fcney ve orta Amerika da genelde ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131k m\u00fccadelesi olan her yerde Simon Bolivar\u2019\u0131n heykeli vard\u0131r. Kimdir, k\u0131saca;<\/p>\n

        Kolombiya, Venezuela, Ekvador, Peru, Panama ve Bolivya\u2018n\u0131n \u0130spanyol s\u00f6m\u00fcrgecili\u011fine kar\u015f\u0131 ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131klar\u0131n\u0131 kazanmalar\u0131na \u00f6nc\u00fcl\u00fck etmi\u015f, “B\u00fcy\u00fck Kurtar\u0131c\u0131” olarak an\u0131l\u0131r. Kimine g\u00f6re halk kahraman\u0131 devrimci, kimine g\u00f6re liberalizmi k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fcmseyen bir kurtar\u0131c\u0131, militarizmi k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fcmseyen bir asker, monar\u015fiye hayran bir cumhuriyet\u00e7i olarak kabul edilen Venezuelal\u0131 askeri ve siyasi lider.<\/p>\n

        uzun y\u0131llar devam eden sava\u015flar\u0131n ard\u0131ndan 1825 y\u0131l\u0131nda Simon Bolivar \u00f6nderli\u011finde ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 kazanan Bolivya’n\u0131n ismi de Bolivar’a nispetle Bolivya olarak belirlenmi\u015fti.<\/p>\n

        **<\/p>\n

        Burada asgari \u00fccret 250 dolar civar\u0131nda, hen\u00fcz turizmin \u00e7ok geli\u015fmedi\u011fi yerlerden yani \u00e7ok turist yok, g\u00f6rmedik. Ba\u015f \u015fehir Paramaribo da bir s\u00fcr\u00fc otel, bir s\u00fcr\u00fc g\u00fczel ma\u011fazalar, g\u00fczel restoranlar var ve de hepsi dolu, restorana gidece\u011fiz hafta aras\u0131 yer yok. Onlarca kumarhane var ve de genelde m\u00fc\u015fteriler yerli halk. Bu kadar kumarhane olmas\u0131, ortada kara para dola\u015f\u0131yor olma ihtimalini akla getiriyor. Nas\u0131l oluyor anlamak zor. Sanayi, \u00fcretim, \u00a0tar\u0131m sekt\u00f6rlerinin kuvvetli olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131 da g\u00f6z \u00f6n\u00fcne al\u0131n\u0131rsa!<\/p>\n

        Surinam da k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck h\u0131rs\u0131zl\u0131klar\u0131n a d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda yaralama, \u00f6ld\u00fcrme, gasp gibi b\u00fcy\u00fck su\u00e7lar pek yok , sakinlik var gibi.<\/p>\n

        Palmiye bah\u00e7esine gidiyoruz, ya\u011fmur sonras\u0131 ortal\u0131k biraz serinlemi\u015f . Surinam da son gecemiz, keyifli sohbet sonras\u0131 g\u00fcn\u00fc tamamlad\u0131k.<\/p>\n

        Sevgilerimle<\/p>\n

        Hayrettin Ka\u011fn\u0131c\u0131<\/p>\n

        Aral\u0131k 2024<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

        G\u00fcney Amerika\u2019n\u0131n kuzeyinde Frans\u0131z Guyanas\u0131 ba\u015fkenti Cayenne\u2019den yola \u00e7\u0131karak 170 km sonra Laurent du Maroi de \u00f6\u011fle yeme\u011fi sonras\u0131nda \u00a0 kano benzeri k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck teknelerle nehrin kar\u015f\u0131 sahilinde Surinam\u2019\u0131n sahil \u015fehri olan Albina\u2019ya geldik. \u00dclkeye giri\u015f yapaca\u011f\u0131z ama g\u00fcmr\u00fck g\u00f6revlileri valiz kontrol bankosunda uzanm\u0131\u015f hafiften kestiriyorlar. Bizi g\u00f6r\u00fcnce \u201cnerden \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131lar bunlarda” der gibi bakt\u0131lar, neyse yava\u015ftan […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":15888,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[13],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-15901","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-gezi-notlari"],"yoast_head":"\nSurinam Cumhuriyeti - Hayrettin Ka\u011fn\u0131c\u0131 Resmi Web Sitesi<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/hayrettinkagnici.com\/tr\/?p=15901\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"tr_TR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Surinam Cumhuriyeti - Hayrettin Ka\u011fn\u0131c\u0131 Resmi Web Sitesi\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"G\u00fcney Amerika\u2019n\u0131n kuzeyinde Frans\u0131z Guyanas\u0131 ba\u015fkenti Cayenne\u2019den yola \u00e7\u0131karak 170 km sonra Laurent du Maroi de \u00f6\u011fle yeme\u011fi sonras\u0131nda \u00a0 kano benzeri k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck teknelerle nehrin kar\u015f\u0131 sahilinde Surinam\u2019\u0131n sahil \u015fehri olan Albina\u2019ya geldik. \u00dclkeye giri\u015f yapaca\u011f\u0131z ama g\u00fcmr\u00fck g\u00f6revlileri valiz kontrol bankosunda uzanm\u0131\u015f hafiften kestiriyorlar. 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