{"id":14494,"date":"2022-09-04T17:20:03","date_gmt":"2022-09-04T14:20:03","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/hayrettinkagnici.com\/tr\/?p=14494"},"modified":"2022-09-04T17:43:38","modified_gmt":"2022-09-04T14:43:38","slug":"kuzey-iran-2022","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/hayrettinkagnici.com\/tr\/kuzey-iran-2022\/","title":{"rendered":"Kuzey \u0130ran 2022"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>G\u00fcneybat\u0131 Asya&#8217;da yer alan \u0130ran \u0130slam Cumhuriyeti, 84 milyon n\u00fcfusu ve 1,648,000 km<sup>2<\/sup> y\u00fcz\u00f6l\u00e7\u00fcm\u00fcyle, 5000 y\u0131l ayn\u0131 topraklarda ya\u015fanan onlarca farkl\u0131 medeniyetin izlerini ta\u015f\u0131yan Ortado\u011fu b\u00f6lgesinin en \u00f6nemli \u00fclkelerinden biridir. Ba\u015fkenti Tahran, resm\u00ee dili Fars\u00e7a olan \u0130ran, g\u00fcneyde Basra K\u00f6rfezi ve Umman K\u00f6rfezi, kuzeyde ise Hazar Denizi ile \u00e7evrili olup T\u00fcrkiye, Azerbaycan, Ermenistan, Irak, Pakistan, Afganistan ve T\u00fcrkmenistan ile kara s\u0131n\u0131r\u0131na sahiptir.<\/p>\n<p>D\u00fcnyan\u0131n g\u00fcndeminde olan \u0130ran denince akla ilk gelenler; Humeyni ve yaratt\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u0130slam devleti, \u0130slami kurallara ba\u011fl\u0131 ya\u015fam d\u00fczeni, emperyalist g\u00fc\u00e7ler taraf\u0131ndan \u00e7\u0131kar ili\u015fkisi ad\u0131na yarat\u0131lan ve milyonlarca insan\u0131n \u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcne sebep olan 1980-1988 y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131nda ya\u015fanan \u0130ran &#8211; Irak Sava\u015f\u0131. Bat\u0131\u2019n\u0131n 1979&#8217;daki \u0130ran \u0130slam Devrimi&#8217;nden sonra 1980&#8217;den bu yana ini\u015fli \u00e7\u0131k\u0131\u015fl\u0131 da olsa uygulad\u0131\u011f\u0131 ve 35 y\u0131ldan beri halen devam eden ambargolar ve b\u00fcy\u00fck toplumsal travmalar kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131nda halen ayaklar\u0131 \u00fczerinde duran \u0130ran.<\/p>\n<p>\u0130ran\u2019a gelirken ba\u015fta kad\u0131nlar\u0131n olmak \u00fczere hepimizin giyimi ve davran\u0131\u015flar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131n nas\u0131l olmas\u0131 gerekir konular\u0131nda baz\u0131 teredd\u00fctler ve endi\u015feler vard\u0131. Anla\u015f\u0131lan o ki, abart\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 kadar de\u011fil, hele kad\u0131nlar\u0131n \u00e7o\u011funlukta sa\u00e7lar\u0131 bak\u0131ml\u0131, ba\u015flar\u0131 yar\u0131m \u015fekilde \u00f6rt\u00fcl\u00fc, makyajl\u0131, b\u00fcy\u00fck \u015fehirlerde g\u00f6be\u011fi a\u00e7\u0131k giyinenler bile var. Erkekler ise \u015fort gibi \u015feyler giymezlerse daha iyi olur. Belli ki kad\u0131nlar eskiye g\u00f6re \u00e7ok daha \u00f6zg\u00fcr. G\u00fcney b\u00f6lgeleri ise daha dindar yap\u0131 oldu\u011fu i\u00e7in biraz daha dikkatli olmak gerekir.\u00d6nceleri, her taraf\u0131 yeterince kapal\u0131 olmayan kad\u0131nlara polis taraf\u0131ndan sopa ile m\u00fcdahale edildi\u011fini, \u015fimdi b\u00f6yle durumlar yok art\u0131k.<\/p>\n<p>\u0130ran\u2019a u\u00e7aklar T\u00fcrkiye\u2019den gece yar\u0131s\u0131ndan sonra kalk\u0131yor ve sabah\u0131n \u00e7ok erken saatlerinde var\u0131yor, b\u00f6yle olunca da vard\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131z g\u00fcn aksak topal ge\u00e7iyor, hele uykuya d\u00fc\u015fk\u00fcn olanlar i\u00e7in biraz zor bir durum.<\/p>\n<p>**<\/p>\n<p>Tebriz\u2019e var\u0131yoruz vakit erken, zaman ge\u00e7iriyoruz insanlar uyans\u0131n, hayat ba\u015flas\u0131n diye. Tebriz\u2019in g\u00fcneybat\u0131s\u0131nda bir saat mesafede 3. y\u00fczy\u0131ldan kalma do\u011fal olu\u015fumlar sonucu meydana gelen, ilgin\u00e7 bir k\u00f6y olan Kandovan k\u00f6y\u00fcne gidiyoruz.<\/p>\n<p>Kandovan, Sehend Da\u011f\u0131 eteklerinde 700 y\u0131ll\u0131k tarihi olan Do\u011fu Azerbaycan eyaletinin Osku \u015eehristan\u2019\u0131na ba\u011fl\u0131, halen 158 aile, 650 civar\u0131nda n\u00fcfusu olan bir k\u00f6y. Sehend Yanarda\u011f\u2019\u0131n\u0131n yamac\u0131nda jeolojik olu\u015fumlar sonucu meydana gelen t\u00fcf tabakas\u0131n\u0131n r\u00fczg\u00e2r, ya\u011fmur ve di\u011fer do\u011fal olaylarla a\u015f\u0131nmas\u0131yla olu\u015fmu\u015f do\u011fa harikas\u0131 bir yer, Kapadokya\u2019n\u0131n co\u011frafyas\u0131yla birebir ayn\u0131. T\u00fcrkiye\u2019de Kapadokya b\u00f6lgesinde geni\u015f bir alanda olu\u015fan yap\u0131, Kandovan\u2019da daha k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir alan\u0131 kapl\u0131yor. D\u00fcnyada bu \u015fekilde olu\u015fan co\u011frafi yap\u0131 sadece \u00fc\u00e7 yerde var, Kapadokya, Kandovan ve Amerika Utah\u2019daki Grand Staircase. Ancak Kapadokya ve Kandovan\u2019\u0131 Grand Staircase\u2019den ay\u0131ran \u00f6zellik, buralarda halen ya\u015fam olmas\u0131. Kandovan\u2019da t\u0131pk\u0131 Kapadokya\u2019da oldu\u011fu gibi ma\u011faralarda ve da\u011f yamac\u0131ndaki yap\u0131larda yerel halk ya\u015fam\u0131n\u0131 s\u00fcrd\u00fcr\u00fcyor. Ma\u011faralarda ba\u015flayan ya\u015fam sonralarda evlerin aras\u0131na yap\u0131lan darac\u0131k yollar, merdivenler, evlerin d\u0131\u015f\u0131na yap\u0131lan ilave kerpi\u00e7 evler ile ya\u015fam alanlar\u0131 geni\u015fletilmi\u015f. G\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde turistlerin ilgi g\u00f6stermesinden dolay\u0131 turistik bir yer halini alm\u0131\u015f, karma\u015f\u0131k bir d\u00fczen i\u00e7inde ya\u015fam devam ediyor. Son zamanlarda yap\u0131la\u015fma durdurulmu\u015f olmas\u0131yla k\u0131smen de olsa korumac\u0131l\u0131k ba\u015flam\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n<p>Kandovan\u2019a gelip k\u00f6y\u00fcn ba\u015f\u0131nda ara\u00e7tan inince kendinizi bu g\u00fczel co\u011frafyan\u0131n i\u00e7inde buluyorsunuz. Yar\u0131 Arnavut kald\u0131r\u0131ml\u0131, yar\u0131 toprak, darac\u0131k, biraz da kar\u0131\u015f\u0131k yollarda yama\u00e7 boyunca bir a\u015fa\u011f\u0131 bir yukar\u0131 y\u00fcr\u00fcyerek k\u00f6y\u00fcn tad\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7\u0131kartabilirsiniz. K\u00f6y i\u00e7inde yama\u00e7 boyunca sokaklarda tezg\u00e2hlar bulunuyor. Bunlarda \u0130ran\u2019a \u00f6zg\u00fc eli\u015fleri, yiyecekler ve hediyelik e\u015fyalar sat\u0131l\u0131yor. Bunlar\u0131n yan\u0131nda birka\u00e7 ev de turistlerin ziyaretine a\u00e7\u0131lm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n<p>\u0130ran\u2019\u0131n her \u015fehrinde oldu\u011fu gibi Kandovan\u2019da da \u0130ran misafirperverli\u011fini g\u00f6rmek m\u00fcmk\u00fcn. \u00d6zellikle T\u00fcrk oldu\u011funuzu anlad\u0131klar\u0131nda bu misafirperverlik daha da \u00e7ok art\u0131yor. Sokaklarda dola\u015f\u0131rken her an tebess\u00fcm ile sizinle tan\u0131\u015fmak, foto\u011fraf \u00e7ekinmek ya da sohbet etmek isteyen insanlarla kar\u015f\u0131la\u015f\u0131yorsunuz. Sohbet biraz ilerlerse son derece samimi olarak evlerine yeme\u011fe hatta yat\u0131ya bile davet ediyorlar. Can insanlar. Sabah erken ilk gelenlerden olunca, foto\u011fraf \u00e7ekebilme \u015fans\u0131m\u0131z oldu, giderek artan \u015fekilde kalabal\u0131kla\u015fma ba\u015flad\u0131, y\u00fcr\u00fcmek, dola\u015fmak zorla\u015ft\u0131. \u0130ran\u2019a uygulanan ambargo ve d\u00fcnya kamuoyunun tek tarafl\u0131 yay\u0131nlar\u0131 nedeniyle T\u00fcrkiye\u2019nin d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda \u00e7ok az turist geliyor. Gelenler genelde yerli turist grubu. Fazla curcuna ve d\u00fczensiz gibi ama bu haliyle bile g\u00fczel, g\u00f6rmeye de\u011fer.<\/p>\n<p>Kandovan ayn\u0131 zamanda, Zerd\u00fc\u015ft tarihinin ikinci a\u015famas\u0131n\u0131n ba\u015flang\u0131c\u0131nda merkezi b\u00f6lge olan Urmiye G\u00f6l\u00fc b\u00f6lgesinin bir par\u00e7as\u0131d\u0131r.<\/p>\n<p>Hi\u00e7 akl\u0131m\u0131zdan \u00e7\u0131km\u0131yor, merak ediyorum benzin litre fiyat\u0131 burada ne kadar diye, soruyoruz, benzin litresi 1,5 TL, mazot 15 kuru\u015f (on be\u015f kuru\u015f yani 0,15 TL) dediler, T\u00fcrkiye\u2019de 30 lira olunca, y\u00fczde ka\u00e7 oluyor diye hesaplamaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015ft\u0131k,hesaplayamad\u0131k! Birka\u00e7 k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bidon mazot getirsek hediye olarak, \u00e7ok makbule ge\u00e7er valla, \u00e7ok hay\u0131r duas\u0131 al\u0131r\u0131z.<\/p>\n<p>Oger Dize diye bir yere gidiyoruz, \u00f6\u011flen yemek i\u00e7in. \u00c7\u00f6lde vaha gibi, kocaman bir yer, ortada a\u011fa\u00e7lar, havuzlar, sular, f\u0131skiyeler falan ilgin\u00e7, g\u00fczel bir yer. Geleneksel yer sofralar\u0131 \u015feklinde d\u00fczenlenmi\u015f b\u00f6lmeler, bize masa ay\u0131rm\u0131\u015flar, bunlar yerde oturamazlar diye. Alevler i\u00e7inde nohutlu, soslu, harika, gayet g\u00fczel pi\u015fmi\u015f dana eti. Geleneksel olarak, tokmak ile eti ve i\u00e7indekileri ezerek hamur haline getirip pidenin i\u00e7ine sararak d\u00fcr\u00fcm gibi yeniyor. Ben ezmeden her bir malzemenin tad\u0131n\u0131 hissederek yemeyi tercih ettim. M\u00fckemmel, tamamd\u0131r.<\/p>\n<p>Bu b\u00f6lgede \u00e7o\u011funluk T\u00fcrk\u00e7e konu\u015fabiliyor, rahat anla\u015fabiliyorsunuz.<\/p>\n<p>Tebriz Cuma Camii&#8217;ne gidiyoruz. \u0130lhanl\u0131lar taraf\u0131ndan in\u015fa edilmi\u015f ve Mescid-i Ali\u015fah (Ali\u015fah Camii) olarak da bilinen olduk\u00e7a b\u00fcy\u00fck bir alana in\u015fa edilmi\u015f, kocaman camii. Sadece Cuma ve bayram namazlar\u0131nda ibadete a\u00e7\u0131l\u0131yor, di\u011fer zamanlar kapal\u0131, b\u00f6yle olunca ziyaret edemedik, \u00e7ok isterdim i\u00e7erisini g\u00f6rmeyi. Cuma camiler, ba\u015fta Orta Asya olmak \u00fczere \u0130slam co\u011frafyas\u0131nda \u00f6nemlidir. Genelde b\u00f6lgenin en b\u00fcy\u00fck camiidir, cuma ve bayram namazlar\u0131 sadece burada k\u0131l\u0131n\u0131r. \u00c7evre halk\u0131 da cuma namazlar\u0131 i\u00e7in buraya gelir, toplan\u0131r, sohbetler, ileti\u015fim, di\u011fer b\u00f6lgelerden haberler, bilgi al\u0131\u015fveri\u015fi gibi sosyalle\u015fme merkezi durumundad\u0131r. En \u00f6nemli olan\u0131, ge\u00e7mi\u015f d\u00f6nemlerde h\u00fck\u00fbmet bildirileri, fermanlar, beraatlar buradan halka duyurulurdu. Bu nedenle cuma camileri \u00f6nemli haberle\u015fme merkezi olarak faaliyet g\u00f6stermi\u015ftir.<\/p>\n<p>Ayn\u0131 alan i\u00e7inde bir de b\u00fcy\u00fck kale kap\u0131s\u0131 gibi bir yap\u0131 var, \u015eah Ali Kap\u0131s\u0131. Humeyni Devrimi s\u00fcrecinde \u00e7at\u0131\u015fmalar\u0131n ya\u015fand\u0131\u011f\u0131, idamlar\u0131n yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 yerlerden. Duvarlarda mermi izleri halen duruyor.<\/p>\n<p>El G\u00f6l\u00fc; Eskiden \u015eah G\u00f6l\u00fc olan ad\u0131, \u0130slam devriminden sonra El (Halk) G\u00f6l\u00fc olarak de\u011fi\u015ftirilmi\u015f, \u015fehirde g\u00fcr\u00fclt\u00fcden uzak, izole bir yer. Dinlenmek, sakinle\u015fmek i\u00e7in aranan yer olmal\u0131. Etraf\u0131 y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f yollar\u0131, \u00e7ay bah\u00e7eleri ve banklarla \u00e7evrili park\u0131n ortas\u0131ndaki g\u00f6l asl\u0131nda b\u00fcy\u00fck bir havuz. \u0130lk olarak tar\u0131msal ama\u00e7l\u0131 yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcl\u00fcyor. G\u00f6l\u00fcn ortas\u0131ndaki zarif bina bir Ka\u00e7ar Saray\u0131 ve ait oldu\u011fu d\u00f6nemin mimarisini \u00e7ok g\u00fczel temsil ediyor. Restore edilmi\u015f ve g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde restoran, kafe olarak kullan\u0131l\u0131yor. Uzun g\u00fcn\u00fcn ard\u0131ndan yorgunluk kahvesi iyi geldi.<\/p>\n<p>**<\/p>\n<p>Tebriz; 3,5 milyon n\u00fcfusu olan, \u00e7o\u011funluk Azeri T\u00fcrklerinin ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u015fehir, tarih boyunca \u0130ran\u2019\u0131n bat\u0131ya a\u00e7\u0131lan kap\u0131s\u0131 olmu\u015f. Her d\u00f6nem modernle\u015fme ad\u0131mlar\u0131n\u0131n at\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 Tebriz, bug\u00fcn de sanayisi ile \u00fclkeye y\u00f6n veren \u015fehirler aras\u0131nda. Do\u011fu Azerbaycan Eyaleti\u2019nin ba\u015fkenti olan ve ayn\u0131 zamanda \u0130ran\u2019\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck \u015fehirlerinden biri olan Tebriz, \u0130ran\u2019da lisan sorunu ya\u015famayaca\u011f\u0131n\u0131z yerlerden biri, neredeyse herkes T\u00fcrk\u00e7e konu\u015fuyor.<\/p>\n<p>Ad\u0131 Fars\u00e7ada, \u201cteb\u201d ate\u015f ve \u201criz\u201d d\u00f6ken anlam\u0131ndad\u0131r. \u015eehrin isim hikayesi, Abbasi Halifesi Harun Re\u015fid\u2019in \u00e7ok sevdi\u011fi e\u015fi yakaland\u0131\u011f\u0131 ate\u015fli hastal\u0131ktan buradaki \u015fifal\u0131 sulara girdikten sonra kurtulmu\u015f. O g\u00fcnden sonra kentin ad\u0131 \u201cate\u015f d\u00f6ken\u201d anlam\u0131na gelen Tebriz olarak an\u0131lmaya ba\u015flam\u0131\u015f. Kimilerine g\u00f6re ise ad\u0131n\u0131 \u00fc\u00e7 taraf\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7eviren da\u011flardan al\u0131yor, K\u0131p\u00e7ak T\u00fcrk\u00e7esinde \u201cTavris\u201d da\u011f aras\u0131 anlam\u0131ndad\u0131r.<\/p>\n<p><strong><em>Azerbaycan M\u00fczesi;<\/em><\/strong> \u00fclkedeki en zengin koleksiyona sahip m\u00fczelerden biri. 1958 y\u0131l\u0131nda a\u00e7\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Do\u011fu Azerbaycan Eyaleti\u2019nde yap\u0131lan kaz\u0131larda ele ge\u00e7en objelerin sergilendi\u011fi m\u00fcze ana galeriler, ofis odalar\u0131, k\u00fct\u00fcphane ve bah\u00e7eden olu\u015fuyor. K\u00fct\u00fcphanesinde \u0130ran tarihini, sanat\u0131n\u0131 ve k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fc anlatan 2.500 el yazmas\u0131 kitab\u0131n bulundu\u011fu m\u00fcze, Sasaniler d\u00f6neminden kalm\u0131\u015f \u00e7ok \u00f6nemli iki bulguya da ev sahipli\u011fi yap\u0131yor. Bunlar, birbirlerinin y\u00fcz\u00fcne bakar vaziyette bulunan, \u201ca\u015f\u0131klar\u201d olarak an\u0131lan bir kad\u0131n ve bir erkek iskeleti ile yakla\u015f\u0131k 3 ton a\u011f\u0131rl\u0131\u011f\u0131ndaki tek par\u00e7a mermere i\u015flenmi\u015f \u00fczerinde \u201cBismillah\u201d yazan ta\u015f.<\/p>\n<p><strong><em>Mescid-i Kabud (Mavi Cami);<\/em><\/strong> Al\u0131n ve duvar s\u00fcslemelerinde kullan\u0131lan muhte\u015fem g\u00fczellikteki \u00e7iniler. Bu \u00e7iniler nedeniyle \u201c\u0130slam\u2019\u0131n Turkuaz\u0131\u201d olarak da an\u0131l\u0131yor. 15. y\u00fczy\u0131l\u0131n ortalar\u0131nda in\u015fa edilen yap\u0131 ge\u00e7irdi\u011fi depremler sonucu b\u00fcy\u00fck hasar g\u00f6rm\u00fc\u015f ancak ba\u015far\u0131l\u0131 restorasyonlar ile tekrar ziyarete a\u00e7\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. En b\u00fcy\u00fck \u00f6zelliklerinden biri \u201cAllah\u201d ad\u0131n\u0131n mavi \u00e7inilerle 1001 kez yaz\u0131lm\u0131\u015f olmas\u0131. Allah, Muhammed ve Ali isimlerinin yaz\u0131l\u0131 oldu\u011fu 17 metrelik s\u00fctunlar giri\u015fte hemen dikkati \u00e7ekiyor.<\/p>\n<p>Caminin avlusunda bulunan heykel 12. y\u00fczy\u0131l Azeri \u015fairlerinden Afzaladdin Bedel Khagani\u2019ye ait ve bu bah\u00e7e de Khagani Bah\u00e7esi olarak an\u0131l\u0131yor.<\/p>\n<p><strong><em>Kapal\u0131 \u00c7ar\u015f\u0131;<\/em><\/strong> Tebriz, tarih \u00f6ncesi \u00e7a\u011flardan beri ticaret yollar\u0131n\u0131n \u00fczerinde yer alm\u0131\u015f, \u0130pek Yolu\u2019nun kesi\u015fme noktalar\u0131ndan olmu\u015f, ticaretin merkezi durumunda olan \u00f6nemli \u015fehirlerden biridir. Tebriz Kapal\u0131 \u00c7ar\u015f\u0131s\u0131, eski d\u00f6nemlerden kalan ve d\u00fcnyan\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck \u00e7ar\u015f\u0131lar\u0131ndan biri. \u0130\u00e7inde 24 kervansaray\u0131n ve 7350 d\u00fckk\u00e2n\u0131n oldu\u011fu \u00e7ar\u015f\u0131n\u0131n yollar\u0131n\u0131n uzunlu\u011fu 3,5 kilometre, gezerken kaybolursunuz. Yakla\u015f\u0131k 1000 ya\u015f\u0131nda oldu\u011fu s\u00f6ylenen \u00e7ar\u015f\u0131, 15. y\u00fczy\u0131lda yap\u0131lan restorasyon ile bug\u00fcnk\u00fc halini alm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n<p>2010 senesinde UNESCO D\u00fcnya Miras\u0131 Listesi\u2019ne giren Kapal\u0131 \u00c7ar\u015f\u0131, 2013 senesinde ge\u00e7irdi\u011fi ba\u015far\u0131l\u0131 restorasyon ile A\u011fa Han \u00f6d\u00fcl\u00fcne lay\u0131k g\u00f6r\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f. Labirent benzeri ve her zaman kalabal\u0131k olan \u00e7ar\u015f\u0131, \u0130stanbul Kapal\u0131 \u00c7ar\u015f\u0131\u2019da oldu\u011fu gibi, sat\u0131lan mal cinsine g\u00f6re hal\u0131c\u0131lar, kuyumcular, ayakkab\u0131c\u0131lar gibi b\u00f6l\u00fcmlere ayr\u0131lm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n<p>**<\/p>\n<p>Tebriz\u2019den ayr\u0131l\u0131yoruz, 300 km mesafede D\u00fcnya Miras\u0131 listesinde bulunan Erdebil \u015fehrinde, Safavi tarikat\u0131n\u0131n kurucusu \u015eeyh Safiyy\u00fcdd\u00een-i Erdebili ile torunlar\u0131ndan \u015eah \u0130smail\u2019in Erdebil Tekkesi\u2019ne gidiyoruz.<\/p>\n<p>Erdebil, Safevili\u011fin do\u011fdu\u011fu, \u0130ran\u2019\u0131n en ormanl\u0131k ve verimli bir b\u00f6lgesi \u00fczerinde T\u00fcrk\u00e7enin yayg\u0131n konu\u015fuldu\u011fu bir vilayet. 15 ve 16\u2019nc\u0131 y\u00fczy\u0131llarda Safeviler \u0130ran i\u00e7in \u00f6nemli bir d\u00f6nem olmu\u015ftur.<\/p>\n<p>Erdebil, \u0130ran ve \u0130slami ge\u00e7mi\u015f a\u00e7\u0131s\u0131ndan \u00f6nemli yerlerden olup gerek dini gerek h\u00fck\u00fcmranl\u0131k olarak \u00e7ok olaylar\u0131n ya\u015fand\u0131\u011f\u0131, tarihin \u00f6nemli kav\u015faklar\u0131ndan biridir. S\u00fcnn\u00ee bir tarikat iken evrilerek \u015e\u00ee\u00ee bir devlet yap\u0131lanmas\u0131na d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015fen Safev\u00eeler, tarikat\u0131n d\u00f6rd\u00fcnc\u00fc lideri \u015eeyh C\u00fcneyd zaman\u0131nda \u015eii olmu\u015ftur.<\/p>\n<p>\u015eah \u0130smail Tekkesi veya Safeviler Derg\u00e2h\u0131, \u015fehitler mezarl\u0131\u011f\u0131 gibidir, Safevilerin ileri gelenlerinden sava\u015flarda \u00f6lenler buraya g\u00f6m\u00fclm\u00fc\u015fler. Yedi kap\u0131l\u0131 derg\u00e2h\u0131n giri\u015finde, derg\u00e2ha gelen dervi\u015fin kendini d\u00fcnyadan tecrit edece\u011fi \u00e7ilehane yer al\u0131yor. Dervaze denen kap\u0131 ba\u015fta olmak \u00fczere \u0130ran \u00e7ini sanat\u0131n\u0131n en g\u00fczel \u00f6rnekleriyle s\u00fcslenmi\u015f. En son noktada \u015eah \u0130smail\u2019in anas\u0131 Alem\u015fah Hatun\u2019un mezar\u0131 bulunuyor. O kabrin yan\u0131 ba\u015f\u0131nda \u015eeyh Safi, \u015eeyh Haydar\u2019\u0131n ve \u015eah \u0130smail\u2019in t\u00fcrbeleri var. Hint sanat\u0131 ile \u0130ran sanat\u0131n\u0131n en \u00f6nemli sentezi ile 16\u2019nc\u0131 y\u00fczy\u0131l T\u00fcrk ve \u0130ran d\u00fcnyas\u0131nda s\u00fcsleme sanat\u0131n\u0131n, geometriden ne kadar ustal\u0131kla yararland\u0131\u011f\u0131 ve rakipsiz bir sanat\u0131 ortaya \u00e7\u0131kard\u0131\u011f\u0131 burada g\u00f6r\u00fclebilir.<\/p>\n<p>Safev\u00eeler, Safev\u00ee \u0130mparatorlu\u011fu veya Safev\u00ee Devleti, 1501 ve 1736 y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131nda varl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 s\u00fcrd\u00fcrm\u00fc\u015f, modern \u0130ran tarihinin ba\u015flang\u0131c\u0131 olarak kabul edilen ve \u0130ran tarihindeki en \u00f6nemli hanedanl\u0131klardan biridir.<\/p>\n<p>1500\u2019lerden ba\u015flayan bu d\u00f6nem, Osmanl\u0131\u2019n\u0131n da dahil oldu\u011fu, S\u00fcnni ve \u015eii tarikatlar\u0131 aras\u0131nda ya\u015fanan katliamlara varan olaylar\u0131n ya\u015fand\u0131\u011f\u0131 bir d\u00f6nemdir.<\/p>\n<p>\u0130ran, 5000 y\u0131ldan beri ayn\u0131 topraklarda ya\u015fayan derin k\u00fclt\u00fcr ve medeniyet birikimi olan bir \u00fclke. Farkl\u0131 inan\u00e7 ve mezheplerin ya\u015fand\u0131\u011f\u0131 bu topraklarda tarihin ak\u0131\u015f\u0131n\u0131 anlamak \u00e7ok kolay de\u011fil. Her olay\u0131n, her ya\u015fanm\u0131\u015fl\u0131\u011f\u0131n k\u00f6keninde, din temelli ayr\u0131l\u0131klar\u0131n yaratt\u0131\u011f\u0131 toplumsal olaylar, sava\u015flar, entrikalar g\u00f6r\u00fcl\u00fcr. \u015eah \u0130smail olay\u0131 da bunlardan biri.<\/p>\n<p>G\u00f6r\u00fclen o ki, \u0130slamiyet, Muhammed\u2019in \u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcnden itibaren kendi i\u00e7inde yaratt\u0131\u011f\u0131 tarikatlar \u00fczerinden topluma h\u00e2kim olma, y\u00f6netme, daha \u00e7ok topraklara sahip olma, \u00e7\u0131karlar \u00fczerine sava\u015fm\u0131\u015f. Bitmi\u015f mi, hay\u0131r, bug\u00fcn de devam ediyor. Bar\u0131\u015f ve karde\u015flik \u00fczerine olmas\u0131 gerekmez mi b\u00fct\u00fcn din ve inan\u00e7lar\u0131n? Neden b\u00f6yle oluyor, siz de d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcn, belki bir g\u00fcn ger\u00e7e\u011fi anlar\u0131z!<\/p>\n<p>Bu konularla ba\u011flant\u0131l\u0131 olarak \u015eia, \u015eiilik, Alevilik, K\u0131z\u0131lba\u015fl\u0131l\u0131k, Bekta\u015filik nedir, farklar\u0131 var m\u0131, diye k\u0131sa bir g\u00f6z atal\u0131m.<\/p>\n<p>\u015eiilik veya \u015eia, Ali ile birlikte onun soyundan gelen imamlar\u0131n g\u00fcnahs\u0131zl\u0131\u011f\u0131na, yan\u0131lmazl\u0131\u011f\u0131na ve Ali\u2019nin bizzat Allah taraf\u0131ndan halife olarak se\u00e7ildi\u011fine inanan \u0130sl\u00e2m mezhebidir. S\u00fcnnilikten sonra gelen ikinci geni\u015f n\u00fcfusa sahip mezheptir ve \u0130slam d\u00fcnyas\u0131 i\u00e7erisinde %10-15&#8217;lik bir k\u0131sm\u0131 olu\u015fturur. \u015eiilik s\u00f6zc\u00fc\u011f\u00fc, C\u00e2fer\u00eelik ile e\u015f anlaml\u0131 olarak kullan\u0131labilmekteyse de \u015eiilik veya \u015eia, hil\u00e2fet olarak &#8220;Ali&#8217;ye yanda\u015f olan ki\u015filer&#8221; anlam\u0131ndad\u0131r ve daha sonraki devirlerde kendi kavramsal ve teolojik alt yap\u0131s\u0131n\u0131 olu\u015fturarak mezheple\u015fmi\u015ftir.<\/p>\n<p>Alevilik kavram\u0131 19. asr\u0131n ikinci yar\u0131s\u0131ndan sonra, daha \u00e7ok da K\u0131z\u0131lba\u015fl\u0131k kavram\u0131n\u0131n yerine kullan\u0131lmaya ba\u015flanm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Nusayriler de 19. asr\u0131n sonlar\u0131ndan itibaren kendileri i\u00e7in \u201cAlevi\u201d ismini kullanm\u0131\u015flard\u0131r. Suriye&#8217;de varl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 s\u00fcrd\u00fcren Nusayrilik, her ne kadar \u201cAlevi\u201d ad\u0131 kullan\u0131yor ise de \u015eii-\u0130mamiyye\u2019nin bir alt koludur. Anadolu Alevili\u011fi ise K\u0131z\u0131lba\u015fl\u0131k ve Bekta\u015filik \u015eia\u2019n\u0131n bir alt kolu de\u011fildir.<\/p>\n<p>\u015eiilik \u015feriatt\u0131r, Alevilik tasavvuftur. \u015eiilik ile Alevilik aras\u0131ndaki temel nokta, ehl-i beyt ve on iki imamlar sevgisidir. \u015eiilikte ikrar ve biat yoktur, Alevilikte vard\u0131r. \u015eiilikte tan\u0131kl\u0131k ve ba\u011fl\u0131l\u0131k vard\u0131r, teslimiyet yoktur.<\/p>\n<p>Hazret-i Ali&#8217;ye inanan ve halife olarak tan\u0131yanlar genellikle &#8220;Alevi&#8221; diye an\u0131l\u0131r, \u015eiiler ise \u0130ran Alevileridir, K\u0131z\u0131lba\u015flar, bir k\u0131s\u0131m T\u00fcrkmenlerden meydana gelen geni\u015f co\u011frafyada bulunan Alevi k\u00f6kenli inan\u00e7 toplulu\u011fudur.<\/p>\n<p>Alevilik ve Bekta\u015filik, inan\u00e7 bak\u0131m\u0131ndan bir\u00e7ok ortak \u00f6zellik ta\u015f\u0131r. Bununla birlikte Bekta\u015filik, temel prensip ve ayinleri olan sofi bir tarikat oldu\u011fu halde Alevilik, Hz. Ali soyundan olmaya \u00f6nem veren bir kimliktir. Bekta\u015filik \u00f6nceleri herkese a\u00e7\u0131k bir tarikatken, Alevilik gizlili\u011fi esas alm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n<p>Anadolu&#8217;da Y\u00f6r\u00fck olarak ya\u015fayan T\u00fcrkmen boylar\u0131ndan bir k\u0131sm\u0131 Alevi\u2019dir. S\u00fcnnilerce bunlara halk aras\u0131nda &#8220;K\u0131z\u0131lba\u015f&#8221; demek al\u0131\u015fkanl\u0131k haline gelmi\u015ftir.<\/p>\n<p>K\u0131z\u0131lba\u015fl\u0131k, 16. y\u00fczy\u0131lda Erdebil\/ Safevi Tekkesi m\u00fcritleri i\u00e7in kullan\u0131lan bir isimdir. \u015eah \u0130smail\u2019in babas\u0131 \u015eeyh Haydar kendi m\u00fcritlerini ba\u015fka tarikatlardan ay\u0131rt edebilmek i\u00e7in onlara 12 dilimli bir k\u0131z\u0131l ta\u00e7 giydirmi\u015ftir. B\u00f6ylece K\u0131z\u0131lba\u015f ad\u0131 \u00f6zellikle Erdebil Tekkesi m\u00fcridi olan T\u00fcrkler i\u00e7in \u00f6vg\u00fc i\u00e7eren bir isim olmu\u015ftur.<\/p>\n<p>Osmanl\u0131 kaynaklar\u0131nda, K\u0131z\u0131lba\u015f tabiri ise Safevi devleti i\u00e7in kullan\u0131l\u0131r. Safevi devletinin ad\u0131 da \u015eeyhsafiettin\u2019den gelir.<\/p>\n<p>B\u00fct\u00fcn bunlar\u0131 daha anla\u015f\u0131l\u0131r \u015fekle getirip, temel de Alevilik ile \u015eiilik aras\u0131ndaki farklara bakarsak;<\/p>\n<p>\u2013 \u015eiilikte ibadet camide yap\u0131l\u0131r.<\/p>\n<p>+ Alevilikte ibadet cem evinde yap\u0131l\u0131r.<\/p>\n<p>\u2013 \u015eiilikte imam vard\u0131r.<\/p>\n<p>+ Alevilikte dede\/ana (Pir) vard\u0131r.<\/p>\n<p>\u2013 \u015eiilikte ezan ibadete \u00e7a\u011f\u0131r\u0131r.<\/p>\n<p>+ Alevilikte ibadete \u00e7a\u011fr\u0131 yoktur.<\/p>\n<p>\u2013 \u015eiilikte ibadet haremlik selaml\u0131kt\u0131r.<\/p>\n<p>+ Alevilikte ibadet kad\u0131n erkek karma \u015fekildedir.<\/p>\n<p>\u2013 \u015eiilikte ibadette k\u0131bleye\/K\u00e2be\u00b4ye d\u00f6n\u00fcl\u00fcr<\/p>\n<p>+ Alevilikte y\u00fcz y\u00fcze, cemal cemale d\u00f6n\u00fcl\u00fcr.<\/p>\n<p>\u2013 \u015eiilikte \u015feriat kap\u0131s\u0131 vard\u0131r.<\/p>\n<p>+ Alevilikte 4 kap\u0131 40 makam inanc\u0131 vard\u0131r.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>B\u00fct\u00fcn bu inan\u00e7lar\u0131n hepsi K\u0131z\u0131lba\u015fl\u0131k inan\u00e7 ve k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcnden do\u011fmu\u015f, zaman i\u00e7inde ya\u015fanan co\u011frafyaya ve ayr\u0131l\u0131klardan do\u011fan farkl\u0131la\u015fmalar sonucu mezhep veya tarikat olarak g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcze kadar ula\u015fm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Yani b\u00fct\u00fcn din ve inan\u00e7larda olmas\u0131 gereken, kalbinde Tanr\u0131 inanc\u0131n\u0131 ta\u015f\u0131yor olmand\u0131r, hepsi Allah yolunda paraleldir. Ayr\u0131l\u0131klar\u0131n sebebi ise g\u00fc\u00e7 ve h\u00fck\u00fcmran olma davran\u0131\u015f\u0131d\u0131r.<\/p>\n<p>**<\/p>\n<p>Yolumuz uzun, Tebriz\u2019den ayr\u0131l\u0131yoruz, g\u00fcneybat\u0131 istikametinde \u0130ran&#8217;\u0131n en eski \u015fehirlerinden birisi olan ve 1548 ile 1598 y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131nda Safev\u00ee Devleti s\u00fcrecinde ba\u015fkent olan Kazvin\u2019e gidiyoruz. 550 km. yol, on saatten fazla s\u00fcrecek gibi.<\/p>\n<p>Heyran Da\u011flar\u0131 aras\u0131ndan, Heyran Vadisi\u2019ni takip ederek harika do\u011fa manzaralar\u0131 e\u015fli\u011finde yola devam.<\/p>\n<p>Hazar Denizi g\u00f6r\u00fcnmeye ba\u015flad\u0131, Lisar \u015fehrinden ve Elburiz Da\u011flar\u0131 aras\u0131ndan ge\u00e7erek Anzalit \u015fehrinde Hazar Denizi\u2019nin k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda \u00f6\u011fle yeme\u011fi molas\u0131. Hazar Denizi, 371.000 km\u00b2 b\u00fcy\u00fckl\u00fc\u011f\u00fcnde, ortalama derinli\u011fi 187 m olan, d\u00fcnyan\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck tuzlu su g\u00f6l\u00fc, bu kadar b\u00fcy\u00fck olunca deniz olarak da an\u0131labiliyor. Ayn\u0131 zamanda d\u00fcnyan\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck i\u00e7 su k\u00fctlesidir. 80\u2019den fazla farkl\u0131 bal\u0131k ya\u015fayan Hazar\u2019\u0131n en de\u011ferli bal\u0131klar\u0131 ise havyar\u0131 ile bilinen Mersin ve Uzun Kafa bal\u0131klar\u0131d\u0131r.<\/p>\n<p>Unesco D\u00fcnya Miras\u0131 aday listesinde olan ve \u00e7ok dik bir da\u011f\u0131n ete\u011finde bulunan Masule k\u00f6y\u00fcndeyiz.<\/p>\n<p>Evler tara\u00e7a \u015feklinde birbirlerinin \u00fczerine in\u015fa edilmi\u015f gibi g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcyor, koruma alt\u0131nda olan k\u00f6yde 180 aile ya\u015f\u0131yor, yakla\u015f\u0131k n\u00fcfus 600 ki\u015fi civar\u0131nda. Alt katlardaki evlerin damlar\u0131, \u00fcst katlardaki evlerin avlusu olarak kullan\u0131lmaktad\u0131r. Baz\u0131 durumlarda, ara sokaklar da birbirine ba\u011fl\u0131 \u00e7at\u0131lar \u00fczerinden oluyor. Yani \u00e7o\u011funlukla her yap\u0131 alttan \u00fcstten ve yanlardan biti\u015fik gibi.<\/p>\n<p>10. y\u00fczy\u0131lda kurulmaya ba\u015flayan k\u00f6y, 1300\u2019l\u00fc y\u0131llarda \u015eiilik ve Alevili\u011fin ba\u015flad\u0131\u011f\u0131 yer olarak kabul edilir. Da\u011flar\u0131n aras\u0131nda orman\u0131n i\u00e7inde gizlenmi\u015f bir yer, giderek turistik de\u011feri art\u0131yor, bu nedenle yerli halktan fazla turist var. Dar merdivenlerden t\u0131rmanarak yukar\u0131lara yerle\u015fim yerlerine gidiyoruz, labirent gibi dar merdivenler, dar ge\u00e7itler. K\u00f6y\u00fcn \u00c7ar\u015f\u0131s\u0131 yamac\u0131n orta yerinde iki ki\u015finin yan yana y\u00fcr\u00fcyemeyece\u011fi kadar darac\u0131k sokaklar aras\u0131nda bir yer. Burada ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131z\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcn, her g\u00fcn onlarca basamak bu merdivenleri t\u0131rman\u0131p, elde paketlerle sabah ak\u015fam bu dik yoku\u015flar\u0131 t\u0131rmanmay\u0131, tam ak\u015fam eve geldiniz a\u015fa\u011f\u0131da arabada bir \u015fey unuttu\u011funuz akl\u0131n\u0131za geldi!!<\/p>\n<p>Geceyi Kazvin\u2019de ge\u00e7irece\u011fiz, ak\u015fam oldu daha yolun yar\u0131s\u0131nday\u0131z, yollar ortalama 40-50 km \u00fczerinde h\u0131z yapmaya uygun olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in yol bitmiyor, hafiften umutsuzluk ba\u015flad\u0131, sabahtan beri yolday\u0131z, 550 km yol bitmedi.<\/p>\n<p>Gece yar\u0131s\u0131 Kazvin\u2019e vas\u0131l olabildik.<\/p>\n<p>**<\/p>\n<p><strong><em>Alamut Kalesine<\/em><\/strong> gidiyoruz. Buras\u0131 olduk\u00e7a y\u00fcksek bir tepe \u00fczerine kurulmu\u015f &#8220;kartal yuvas\u0131&#8221; anlam\u0131nda savunma kalesi. Kazvin \u015fehrinden 110 km mesafede 4 saatlik yol, ancak ara\u00e7lar da biraz eski olunca yol daha da uzuyor. Kaleden \u00e7ok bir eser kalmam\u0131\u015f, sadece kal\u0131nt\u0131lar\u0131 kalm\u0131\u015f, Alamut Kalesinde ve \u00e7evresinde kaz\u0131lar \u015fartlar gere\u011fi durmu\u015f vaziyette. Yar\u0131m saatlik dik bir t\u0131rman\u0131\u015f ile ula\u015f\u0131labilen en tepe noktas\u0131nda manzara harika. Ger\u00e7ekten kartal yuvas\u0131 gibi her yere h\u00e2kim, b\u00fct\u00fcn \u00e7evrenin kolayca g\u00f6zetlenebildi\u011fi bir konumda.<\/p>\n<p>Alamut Kalesinin ilgin\u00e7 olan hikayesine k\u0131saca bakarsak;<\/p>\n<p>Hasan Sabbah\u2019\u0131n, Ha\u015fha\u015fi tarikat\u0131 i\u00e7in mek\u00e2n olarak se\u00e7ti\u011fi Alamut Kalesi, y\u00fcksekli\u011fi iki bin metreyi a\u015fan kayalar \u00fczerine kurulu bir kale. Kale verimli topraklarda, kayal\u0131klar\u0131n yan\u0131 s\u0131ra a\u011fa\u00e7l\u0131k bir vadide kurulmu\u015f.<\/p>\n<p>Sel\u00e7uklu Devleti\u2019nin h\u00fck\u00fcm s\u00fcrd\u00fc\u011f\u00fc y\u0131llarda Hasan Sabbah taraf\u0131ndan kurulan Ha\u015fha\u015fi tarikat\u0131 yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 suikastlarla \u00f6ne \u00e7\u0131km\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Hasan Sabbah, adamlar\u0131na, cennetin anahtar\u0131n\u0131n kendi ellerinde oldu\u011funa inand\u0131rm\u0131\u015f ve ha\u015fha\u015f\u0131n uyu\u015fturucu etkisini de kullanarak e\u011fitime tabi tuttu\u011fu tarikat \u00fcyelerine, bir\u00e7ok devlet adam\u0131 ve h\u00fck\u00fcmdara suikastlar yapt\u0131rm\u0131\u015f, \u00e7evresindeki \u00fclkelere epey g\u00f6zda\u011f\u0131 vermeyi ba\u015farabilmi\u015fti.<\/p>\n<p>1092, Sel\u00e7uklular d\u00f6neminde S\u00fcnni ve \u015eii gerginli\u011fi hakimdi ve S\u00fcnniler di\u011fer tarikatlar \u00fczerinde toplu katliamlar ger\u00e7ekle\u015ftirerek a\u011f\u0131r bask\u0131lar yap\u0131yorlard\u0131. 16-17 ya\u015flar\u0131nda olan Hasan Sabbah, bu durumdan \u00e7ok rahats\u0131z olur ve kendi i\u00e7inde m\u00fccadeleyi ba\u015flat\u0131r. Matematik, felsefe ve din e\u011fitimi alan Sabbah, Ba\u011fdat\u2019ta \u00fcnl\u00fc medreselerde din e\u011fitimi al\u0131r, dini felsefe \u00fczerine yo\u011funla\u015f\u0131r, kendi i\u00e7ine ayd\u0131nlanma d\u00f6nemini ya\u015far. Farkl\u0131 b\u00f6lgelere giderek fikirlerini yaymaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131r, etraf\u0131na inanlar\u0131 toplar, asl\u0131nda amac\u0131 ya\u015fanan zul\u00fcmlere ve bask\u0131lara kar\u015f\u0131 durmak, bu y\u00f6nde bir hareket ba\u015flatmakt\u0131r. Bir s\u00fcre sonra Alamut Kalesinin oldu\u011fu yere gelir ve Alamut devletinin ba\u015f\u0131 Mehdi\u2019den kendisinin kabul edilmesini talep eder. Yerle\u015fti\u011fi kalede, kale askerleri aras\u0131nda taraftar bulur, onlara \u00f6\u011fretiler verir ve kale askerlerinin b\u00fcy\u00fck \u00e7o\u011funlu\u011funu kendine ba\u011flar. Mehdi\u2019nin kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131na \u00e7\u0131karak, kendisinin teslim olmas\u0131n\u0131 ister ve kaleyi kolayl\u0131kla ele ge\u00e7irir. Uyu\u015fturucu kulland\u0131rarak yaratt\u0131\u011f\u0131 tarikat, esasta zalim diktat\u00f6rlere kar\u015f\u0131 yap\u0131lan suikastlar etkili olmaya ba\u015flam\u0131\u015f ve zaman i\u00e7inde Afganistan\u2019a kadar olan b\u00f6lgede etkili olmaya ba\u015flam\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n<p>1256 y\u0131l\u0131nda, Ba\u011fdat\u2019\u0131 i\u015fgale giden Cengiz Han\u2019\u0131n torunu H\u00fcl\u00e2g\u00fb Han komutas\u0131ndaki Mo\u011fol \u0130lhanl\u0131lar ordusu Ha\u015fha\u015filer&#8217;i yok etmek amac\u0131yla Alamut kalesini ele ge\u00e7irilmi\u015f ve kalede bulunan t\u00fcm Ha\u015fha\u015filer \u00f6ld\u00fcr\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f, kale tahrip edilmi\u015f, i\u00e7inde bulunan \u00fcnl\u00fc k\u00fct\u00fcphanesi de yak\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n<p>Bir zamanlar bizde de siyasi polemik olarak \u201cHa\u015fha\u015fi\u201d kelimesi \u00e7ok kullan\u0131l\u0131r olmu\u015ftu, konunun ne oldu\u011funu, nereden geldi\u011fini belirtmek istedim.<\/p>\n<p>Kazvin, \u0130ran\u2019\u0131n \u00f6nemli \u015fehirlerinden olup 16. y\u00fczy\u0131lda Safevi devletinin de ba\u015fkenti olmu\u015ftur.<\/p>\n<p><strong><em>Kazvin Ulu Cami<\/em><\/strong> veya Cima Cami\u2019ye gidiyoruz. Ger\u00e7ekten b\u00fcy\u00fck ve anlam\u0131 olan yap\u0131lardan biri.<\/p>\n<p>\u0130ran&#8217;daki en eski tarihi Cuma camilerinden birisidir. Sasani d\u00f6nemine ait olan yap\u0131 zaman i\u00e7inde yap\u0131lan \u00e7e\u015fitli ilaveler ve onar\u0131mlarla g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcze ula\u015fm\u0131\u015f. Yap\u0131n\u0131n ilk in\u015fas\u0131 807 y\u0131l\u0131nda Abbasi Halifesi Harun Re\u015fid&#8217;in emri ile ba\u015flam\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. 1038-1194 y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131nda Sel\u00e7uklu hakimiyeti alt\u0131ndayken kuzeyine iki eyvan ilave edilen camii tu\u011fla malzemeyle in\u015fa edilmi\u015f. Caminin baz\u0131 b\u00f6l\u00fcmlerindeki kitabeler \u00e7ini plakalarla sonraki d\u00f6nemlerde kapat\u0131lm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n<p>B\u00fct\u00fcn S\u00fcnni ve \u015eii camilerinde minareler uzun sivri, selvi a\u011fac\u0131 \u015feklindedir. Selvi a\u011fac\u0131 mezarl\u0131klarda da olmas\u0131 istenen a\u011fa\u00e7 t\u00fcr\u00fcd\u00fcr. Eski inan\u0131\u015flara g\u00f6re \u00f6ld\u00fckten sonra ruhun g\u00f6ky\u00fcz\u00fcne y\u00fckselmesinde selvi a\u011fac\u0131 uzun sivri formuyla yol g\u00f6sterici olmu\u015ftur. Bu nedenle selvi a\u011fac\u0131 \u0130slam aleminde bu anlamda \u00f6nemli sembol olmu\u015ftur. Buradaki mezarl\u0131klarda da selvi a\u011fa\u00e7lar\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6rmek m\u00fcmk\u00fcn.<\/p>\n<p>\u0130pek Yolu \u00fczerindeki merkezlerde, kav\u015faklarda genelde konaklama, ticaret ve korunma ama\u00e7l\u0131 kervansaraylar bulunur. Kazvin eski d\u00f6nemlerden beri \u0130pek Yolu \u00fczerindeki \u00f6nemli merkezlerden biri olmu\u015ftur, i\u015fte buradaki kervansaraya gidiyoruz. Bug\u00fcn bu kervansaraylar, ticaret merkezi olma yani al\u0131\u015fveri\u015f yeri olarak h\u00fcviyetini halen korumaktad\u0131r. Madem b\u00f6yle bir durum var, biz de kurallara uyduk, gerekli al\u0131\u015fveri\u015fimizi tamamlad\u0131k.<\/p>\n<p>\u0130ran ekonomisine katk\u0131da bulunduktan sonra Kazvin Ali Kap\u0131ya gidiyoruz. Kap\u0131 kapal\u0131, ge\u00e7mi\u015fte sadece kraliyet ailesi mensuplar\u0131\u00a0girebiliyormu\u015f.\u00a0\u00c7ok anlatt\u0131k, biz de kral soyundan geliyoruz dedik ama bizi asalet anlam\u0131nda uygun bulmad\u0131klar\u0131 i\u00e7in kabul etmediler! Uzun zamand\u0131r kapat\u0131lm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n<p>Kazvin Koreografi M\u00fczesi, vaktiniz varsa gidebilece\u011finiz bir yer.<\/p>\n<p>Yemek sonras\u0131 ba\u015f\u015fehir Tahran&#8217;a gidiyoruz. Tahran trafik konusunda ciddi yo\u011funlu\u011fu olan bir \u015fehir.<\/p>\n<p>Ak\u015fam oldu, g\u00fcn\u00fc bitirdik gene.<\/p>\n<p>**<\/p>\n<p>18 milyonu a\u015fan n\u00fcfusu, trafik ve kar\u0131\u015f\u0131k yap\u0131lanma ile dikkati \u00e7eken ba\u015fkent Tahran, \u0130ran\u2019\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck kentidir. A\u011fa Muhammed Han, 1785&#8217;te ele ge\u00e7irdi\u011fi Tahran&#8217;\u0131 1788&#8217;de ba\u015fkent ilan eder ve bu tarihten sonra h\u0131zla geli\u015fen kent g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcze kadar da \u0130ran&#8217;\u0131n ba\u015fkenti olarak kalm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Ka\u00e7ar Hanedan\u0131&#8217;n\u0131n 1925&#8217;te devrilmesinden sonra 1941 y\u0131l\u0131nda tahta \u00e7\u0131kan R\u0131za Pehlevi\u2019nin h\u00fck\u00fcmdarl\u0131\u011f\u0131 s\u0131ras\u0131nda petrol sanayisindeki geli\u015fmenin de etkisiyle kent h\u0131zla modernle\u015fti ve b\u00fcy\u00fck \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fcde geni\u015fledi.<\/p>\n<p>Ancak 1979 y\u0131l\u0131nda \u015eah\u2019\u0131n devrilerek \u0130slam Cumhuriyeti kurulmas\u0131ndan sonra ekonomik ve siyasal sorunlar nedeniyle kent bir duraklama d\u00f6nemine girmi\u015ftir. Elburz Da\u011flar\u0131n\u0131n g\u00fcney yama\u00e7lar\u0131nda bulunan Tahran, ba\u015fkent olarak \u0130ran&#8217;\u0131n ekonomik ve sosyal ya\u015fam\u0131na y\u00f6n veren en \u00e7a\u011fda\u015f kentlerinden birisidir.<\/p>\n<p><strong><em>Tahran Ulusal Arkeoloji M\u00fczesi;<\/em><\/strong> 1937 y\u0131l\u0131nda a\u00e7\u0131lan Antik Pers eserlerinin, \u00e7\u00f6mleklerin, metal i\u015flerinin, kitaplar ve madeni paralar\u0131n sergilendi\u011fi \u0130ran\u2019\u0131n en zengin m\u00fczesi iki binadan olu\u015fmaktad\u0131r. Bir numaral\u0131 binada \u0130slamiyet \u00f6ncesi d\u00f6neme ait toplanan eserler, iki numaral\u0131 binada ise \u0130slamiyet sonras\u0131 eserler sergilenmektedir. G\u00f6r\u00fclmesi gereken yerlerden, gayet g\u00fczel ve d\u00fczenli bir m\u00fcze.<\/p>\n<p><strong><em>G\u00fclistan Saray\u0131;<\/em><\/strong> Tahran\u2019\u0131n g\u00fcneyinde, Erg Meydan\u0131&#8217;n\u0131n yak\u0131n\u0131nda eski Tahran surlar\u0131n\u0131n s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131 i\u00e7erisinde, Ka\u00e7ar Hanedan\u0131 d\u00f6nemine ait bir saray. Saray\u0131n in\u015fas\u0131na T\u00fcrk Safevi hanedan\u0131ndan olan I. Tahmasp zaman\u0131nda ba\u015flanm\u0131\u015f ve zaman\u0131nda \u0130ran T\u00fcrk hanedan\u0131, Ka\u00e7ar Hanedan\u0131\u2019n\u0131n \u015fahlar\u0131n\u0131n ikametg\u00e2h\u0131 olarak kullan\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Pehlevi Hanedan\u0131 d\u00f6neminde resm\u00ee t\u00f6renler ve yabanc\u0131 heyetlerin ikameti i\u00e7in kullan\u0131lan bu saray g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde m\u00fcze olarak kullan\u0131lmaktad\u0131r. \u015eah R\u0131za Pehlevi, Farah Diba ile burada evlenmi\u015f.<\/p>\n<p>Tahran\u2019da g\u00f6r\u00fcleceklerin aras\u0131nda en \u00f6nemli olanlardan biri. M\u00fcthi\u015f g\u00f6z kama\u015ft\u0131r\u0131c\u0131 bir yer. Unesco D\u00fcnya K\u00fclt\u00fcr Miras\u0131 Listesinde olan G\u00fclistan Saray\u0131 (Golestan Palace), Ka\u00e7ar Hanedanl\u0131\u011f\u0131\u2019n\u0131n Tahran\u2019a kazand\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131 en g\u00fczel miras olmu\u015f. Mimarl\u0131k ve el sanatlar\u0131 alanlar\u0131ndaki k\u00f6kl\u00fc Pers k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fcn bat\u0131 tekni\u011fi ve mimarisi ile birle\u015fti\u011fi bir ba\u015fyap\u0131t. Havuzlarla dolu bah\u00e7esi, i\u00e7inde ve d\u0131\u015f cephesindeki zengin 19. y\u00fczy\u0131l el i\u015f\u00e7ili\u011fi ve ihti\u015fam\u0131yla, \u00fcnl\u00fc galerileriyle do\u011funun en \u00fcnl\u00fc Saray\u0131. \u015eems-\u00fcl \u0130mare, Selam Salonu, Aynal\u0131 Salon, Taht-i Mermer Salon, Ebyez Saray\u0131, Kerim Hanl\u0131 Halvet gibi b\u00f6l\u00fcmleri olan, ger\u00e7ekten b\u00fcy\u00fck ve \u00e7ok g\u00fczel \u00e7inilerle i\u015flenmi\u015f saray. G\u00f6r\u00fclmesi gereken yerlerden.<\/p>\n<p><strong><em>Kapal\u0131 \u00c7ar\u015f\u0131;<\/em><\/strong> \u0130ran mimarisinden izler ta\u015f\u0131yan ve tarih\u00ee dokusunu h\u00e2l\u00e2 koruyan Tahran Kapal\u0131 \u00c7ar\u015f\u0131s\u0131, reng\u00e2renk d\u00fckk\u00e2nlar\u0131 ile \u015fehrin sosyal hayat\u0131n\u0131n \u00f6nemli bir par\u00e7as\u0131. \u0130ran mimarisinin nadide \u00f6rneklerinden olan \u00e7ar\u015f\u0131, tu\u011fla duvarlar\u0131, motifleri ve \u0130ran tarihini anlatan fig\u00fcrleri ile benzersiz bir mimar\u00ee dokuya sahiptir. Birbirine ge\u00e7en uzun caddelerden olu\u015fan \u00e7ar\u015f\u0131n\u0131n koridorlar\u0131n\u0131n birle\u015fti\u011fi noktalarda b\u00fcy\u00fck kubbeler yer almaktad\u0131r. Kapal\u0131 \u00c7ar\u015f\u0131\u2019ya gelip al\u0131\u015fveri\u015f yapmadan olur mu? Hi\u00e7 olmazsa hurma, \u00e7ay falan almak laz\u0131m! Biz de \u00f6yle yapt\u0131k, bir s\u00fcr\u00fc \u015feyler al\u0131nd\u0131 gene.<\/p>\n<p><strong><em>Hal\u0131 M\u00fczesi;<\/em><\/strong> \u0130ran\u2019\u0131n son Krali\u00e7esi Farah Pehlevi taraf\u0131ndan 1976 y\u0131l\u0131nda kurulmu\u015f olan m\u00fczede 18. y\u00fczy\u0131ldan g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcze t\u00fcm \u0130ran&#8217;\u0131 kapsayan \u00e7e\u015fitlilikte \u0130ran hal\u0131lar\u0131 sergilenmektedir. M\u00fczenin 3.400 metrekare sergi salonu ve yakla\u015f\u0131k 7.000 kitapl\u0131k zengin bir k\u00fct\u00fcphanesi de var. Hal\u0131 merak\u0131 olanlar i\u00e7in son derece ilgin\u00e7 bir yer.<\/p>\n<p><strong><em>Azadi Meydan\u0131, \u00d6zg\u00fcrl\u00fck Meydan\u0131; <\/em><\/strong>Tarihi Pers \u0130mparatorlu\u011fu\u2019nun 2500. y\u0131l\u0131 an\u0131s\u0131na 1971 y\u0131l\u0131nda Muhammed R\u0131za Pehlevi d\u00f6neminde H\u00fcseyin Emanet adl\u0131 bir mimar taraf\u0131ndan yap\u0131lan 48 metre y\u00fcksekli\u011findeki Azadi kulede \u0130slam \u00f6ncesi ve sonras\u0131 \u0130ran mimari \u00f6\u011feleri kullan\u0131lm\u0131\u015f ve Tahran\u2019\u0131n simgesi haline gelmi\u015ftir. Zamanla \u0130ran halk\u0131n\u0131n en de\u011fer verdi\u011fi yap\u0131lardan biri haline gelen \u00d6zg\u00fcrl\u00fck Meydan\u0131, \u00fclkede ger\u00e7ekle\u015fen bir\u00e7ok toplumsal olaylara da ev sahipli\u011fi yapmaktad\u0131r. Bu nedenle bu binan\u0131n politik a\u00e7\u0131dan da de\u011feri b\u00fcy\u00fckt\u00fcr ve \u0130ran halk\u0131n\u0131n g\u00f6z\u00fcnde milli bir de\u011feri vard\u0131r.<\/p>\n<p>**<\/p>\n<p>\u0130ran, 1970 y\u0131llar\u0131nda petrolden elde edilen gelirle ekonomisini d\u00fczeltmeye ba\u015flam\u0131\u015f ancak zenginlikler daha \u00e7ok \u015eah ve ailesi taraf\u0131ndan kullan\u0131l\u0131yor, halka \u00e7ok yans\u0131t\u0131lm\u0131yordu. O d\u00f6nemi ya\u015fayanlar an\u0131msayacaklar, \u0130ran\u2019\u0131n alt yap\u0131s\u0131 T\u00fcrkiye\u2019den daha iyiydi ve \u015eah Penhleri taraf\u0131ndan \u00e7ok g\u00f6rkemli olarak d\u00fczenlenen \u0130ran\u2019\u0131n 2500\u2019inci kutlama t\u00f6renleri \u00e7ok dikkati \u00e7ekmi\u015fti. \u00c7ok b\u00fcy\u00fck paralar harcanarak yap\u0131lan kutlamalar toplumda b\u00fcy\u00fck rahats\u0131zl\u0131k yaratm\u0131\u015f, \u00fclkede gelirden pay almayan kesimde b\u00fcy\u00fck huzursuzluk olu\u015fmu\u015f, Ali \u015eeriati \u00f6nderli\u011finde ilerici ayd\u0131n d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnceyle toplumsal hareketlenmeler ba\u015flam\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Bu d\u00f6nemde Ali \u015eeriati \u0130ngiltere\u2019ye yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 ziyarette \u00f6ld\u00fcr\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f, hemen sonras\u0131nda sol hareket yava\u015flam\u0131\u015f olarak g\u00f6sterilmeye ba\u015flanm\u0131\u015f ve bu bo\u015flukta sol hareketin devam\u0131 gibi Humeyni ortaya \u00e7\u0131km\u0131\u015ft\u0131.<\/p>\n<p>\u0130ran siyasi tarihini anlamak i\u00e7in \u00f6zellikle din sosyolojisi ve \u00e7a\u011fda\u015f \u0130slam d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcrleri aras\u0131nda \u0130ran&#8217;daki devrimci, \u0130slam&#8217;\u0131n babas\u0131, \u0130ran \u0130slam Devrimi&#8217;nin ba\u015f d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcr\u00fc olarak Ali \u015eeriati\u2019yi tan\u0131mak gerekir. Bat\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcncesinde ortaya \u00e7\u0131kan \u00e7e\u015fitli fikirlerin, \u00f6rne\u011fin baz\u0131 Marksist fikirlerin, \u0130slam&#8217;\u0131n \u00f6z\u00fcnde oldu\u011funu ve bunun farkl\u0131 bir \u015fekilde anlat\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 savunmu\u015ftur.\u00a0 Bu tarz\u0131ndan yola \u00e7\u0131karak sosyolojiyi \u0130slamla\u015ft\u0131rmaktan ziyade, \u0130slam&#8217;\u0131n sosyolojik bir yap\u0131 oldu\u011funu savunan ve \u0130slami metodik d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcncenin a\u00e7mazlar\u0131yla bo\u011fu\u015fan felsefe bilim adam\u0131d\u0131r.<\/p>\n<p>\u0130slam Devrimi s\u0131ras\u0131nda, modern \u0130ran&#8217;\u0131n en pop\u00fcler yazar\u0131 olan \u015eeriati, ders kasetleri okuma yazma bilmeyenler aras\u0131nda bile yayg\u0131n bir \u015fekilde dola\u015fan, ayd\u0131nlar aras\u0131nda \u00e7ok pop\u00fcler olan bir devrimciydi.<\/p>\n<p>Eserleri yeniden bas\u0131l\u0131yor, sloganlar\u0131 g\u00f6sterilerde s\u00f6yleniyor ve fikirleri, devrimciler ve \u00f6zellikle radikal lise \u00f6\u011frencileri taraf\u0131ndan serbest\u00e7e tart\u0131\u015f\u0131l\u0131yordu. Asl\u0131nda, onun fikirleri Ayetullah Humeyni&#8217;ninkilerden \u00e7ok daha iyi biliniyordu.<\/p>\n<p>Ders verdi\u011fi konferans salonunun SAVAK g\u00fc\u00e7lerince kapat\u0131lmas\u0131ndan sonra, \u015eeriati tutuklan\u0131p, \u201c\u0130slam Marksizm\u2019ini\u201d savunmakla su\u00e7lanarak hapse at\u0131ld\u0131. 18 ay\u0131 bir h\u00fccrede ge\u00e7irdi. 1975\u2019te ev hapsine al\u0131nan Ali \u015eeriati\u2019nin 1977\u2019ye kadar yurtd\u0131\u015f\u0131na \u00e7\u0131kmas\u0131na izin verilmedi. Daha sonra gitti\u011fi \u0130ngiltere\u2019de suikast sonucu \u00f6ld\u00fcr\u00fcld\u00fc.<\/p>\n<p>\u0130fadelerinden baz\u0131lar\u0131;<\/p>\n<p>Ali \u015eeriati&#8217;nin Bat\u0131&#8217;daki imaj\u0131n\u0131 en iyi \u00f6zetleyen s\u00f6zlerden: &#8220;Ben bir Tanr\u0131\u2019ya inanm\u0131yorum ama inansayd\u0131m e\u011fer bu \u015eeriati&#8217;nin Tanr\u0131s\u0131 olurdu.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;Dindar bir toplumu ancak din ad\u0131na, din alimleri kand\u0131rabilirdi ve \u00f6yle de oldu.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>\u201cD\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnme, itaat et diyenlere de\u011fil; d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn, sor, sorgula diyenlere kulak ver.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;Bir yerde yang\u0131n varken biri seni ibadet etmeye \u00e7a\u011f\u0131r\u0131yorsa, bil ki bu bir hainin davetidir.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>\u201cTek hurma ile beslenen peygamber ve yamal\u0131 c\u00fcbbe giyen \u00d6mer hikayeleri ile halk\u0131 kand\u0131r\u0131p, kendileri i\u00e7in saray ve villalar in\u015fa ettiler.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>**<\/p>\n<p>T\u00fcrklerin en eski \u00e7a\u011flardan beri yurt tuttu\u011fu \u0130ran, \u00e7e\u015fitli T\u00fcrk boylar\u0131n\u0131n \u00f6zellikle O\u011fuzlar\u0131n en \u00f6nemli yerle\u015fim merkezi olmu\u015ftur. \u00dczerinde az ara\u015ft\u0131rma yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f olsa da bir\u00e7ok \u00e7e\u015fitli T\u00fcrk topluluklar\u0131n\u0131n varl\u0131\u011f\u0131 ve onlar\u0131n b\u00f6lgedeki katk\u0131lar\u0131, tarihten k\u00fclt\u00fcre kadar her alanda ortaya \u00e7\u0131kmaktad\u0131r. T\u00fcrk topluluklar\u0131 i\u00e7erisinde T\u00fcrkiye\u2019den sonra otuz milyonu a\u015fk\u0131n n\u00fcfusu ile ikinci T\u00fcrk toplulu\u011fu olan \u0130ran T\u00fcrkleri, \u00e7e\u015fitli T\u00fcrk boylar\u0131ndan meydana gelmi\u015ftir.<\/p>\n<p>Ka\u015fkay T\u00fcrkleri, \u0130ran co\u011frafyas\u0131nda, \u0130ran&#8217;\u0131n \u00e7a\u011fda\u015f tarihinde \u00f6zellikle siyasi alanda \u00f6nemli bir akt\u00f6r olmu\u015ftur. 1. ve 2. D\u00fcnya Sava\u015f\u0131&#8217;nda \u0130ran&#8217;\u0131n g\u00fcneyi \u0130ngilizler taraf\u0131ndan i\u015fgal edildi\u011fi zaman Ka\u015fkay T\u00fcrkleri \u0130ngilizlerle kar\u015f\u0131 kar\u015f\u0131ya gelmi\u015flerdir.<\/p>\n<p>\u0130ran 35 y\u0131ldan beri d\u00fcnyan\u0131n uygulad\u0131\u011f\u0131 a\u011f\u0131r ambargo bask\u0131s\u0131 alt\u0131nda ya\u015fam\u0131n\u0131 s\u00fcrd\u00fcrmeye \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131yor. \u00d6nceleri siyasi ve ekonomik ambargo sonucunda \u0130ran\u2019\u0131n birka\u00e7 y\u0131l i\u00e7inde Amerika ve bat\u0131 \u00f6n\u00fcnde diz \u00e7\u00f6kecek, n\u00fckleer faaliyetlerden vazge\u00e7ece\u011fi, petrol konusunda Amerika\u2019n\u0131n kontrol\u00fcnde politika izlemeyece\u011fi bekleniyordu. Ge\u00e7en s\u00fcre i\u00e7inde ciddi yaralar ald\u0131, b\u00fcy\u00fck s\u0131k\u0131nt\u0131lar ya\u015fad\u0131 ama asla diz \u00e7\u00f6kmedi. B\u00fct\u00fcn bask\u0131lara ra\u011fmen n\u00fckleer programa mevcut \u015fartlarda devam ediyor, ihtiya\u00e7lar\u0131n\u0131 ba\u015fta \u00c7in olmak \u00fczere do\u011fu \u00fclkelerinden halletmeye \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131yor.<\/p>\n<p>**<\/p>\n<p>Son bin y\u0131ldan daha uzun bir ge\u00e7mi\u015f tarihe bakarsak, bug\u00fcn Bat\u0131 olarak tarifledi\u011fimiz \u00fclkelerin d\u00fcnyay\u0131 nas\u0131l s\u00f6m\u00fcrgele\u015ftirdi\u011fini, d\u00fcnyan\u0131n bir\u00e7ok yerindeki zenginlikleri zorbal\u0131kla, b\u00fcy\u00fck katliamlarla nas\u0131l elde ettiklerini g\u00f6r\u00fcr\u00fcz.<\/p>\n<p><strong><em>&#8220;1200\u2019l\u00fc y\u0131llardan itibaren herkes \u00f6n\u00fcnden yeseydi, bug\u00fcn d\u00fcnyan\u0131n en fakir \u00fclkesi Avrupa, en zengin \u00fclkesi Afrika olurdu.&#8221;<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Derin tarihi ve k\u00fclt\u00fcr birikimi olan farkl\u0131 boylardan T\u00fcrklerin de ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131, medeniyetler \u00fclkesi \u0130ran.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Sevgilerimle<\/p>\n<p>Hayrettin Ka\u011fn\u0131c\u0131<\/p>\n<p>Haziran 2022<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>G\u00fcneybat\u0131 Asya&#8217;da yer alan \u0130ran \u0130slam Cumhuriyeti, 84 milyon n\u00fcfusu ve 1,648,000 km2 y\u00fcz\u00f6l\u00e7\u00fcm\u00fcyle, 5000 y\u0131l ayn\u0131 topraklarda ya\u015fanan onlarca farkl\u0131 medeniyetin izlerini ta\u015f\u0131yan Ortado\u011fu b\u00f6lgesinin en \u00f6nemli \u00fclkelerinden biridir. Ba\u015fkenti Tahran, resm\u00ee dili Fars\u00e7a olan \u0130ran, g\u00fcneyde Basra K\u00f6rfezi ve Umman K\u00f6rfezi, kuzeyde ise Hazar Denizi ile \u00e7evrili olup T\u00fcrkiye, Azerbaycan, Ermenistan, Irak, Pakistan, [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":14489,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[13],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-14494","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-gezi-notlari"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v24.8.1 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Kuzey \u0130ran 2022 - Hayrettin Ka\u011fn\u0131c\u0131 Resmi Web Sitesi<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/hayrettinkagnici.com\/tr\/?p=14494\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"tr_TR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Kuzey \u0130ran 2022 - Hayrettin Ka\u011fn\u0131c\u0131 Resmi Web Sitesi\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"G\u00fcneybat\u0131 Asya&#8217;da yer alan \u0130ran \u0130slam Cumhuriyeti, 84 milyon n\u00fcfusu ve 1,648,000 km2 y\u00fcz\u00f6l\u00e7\u00fcm\u00fcyle, 5000 y\u0131l ayn\u0131 topraklarda ya\u015fanan onlarca farkl\u0131 medeniyetin izlerini ta\u015f\u0131yan Ortado\u011fu b\u00f6lgesinin en \u00f6nemli \u00fclkelerinden biridir. Ba\u015fkenti Tahran, resm\u00ee dili Fars\u00e7a olan \u0130ran, g\u00fcneyde Basra K\u00f6rfezi ve Umman K\u00f6rfezi, kuzeyde ise Hazar Denizi ile \u00e7evrili olup T\u00fcrkiye, Azerbaycan, Ermenistan, Irak, Pakistan, [&hellip;]\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/hayrettinkagnici.com\/tr\/?p=14494\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Hayrettin Ka\u011fn\u0131c\u0131 Resmi Web Sitesi\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2022-09-04T14:20:03+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2022-09-04T14:43:38+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/hayrettinkagnici.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/1-80-\u0130RAN-TAHRAN-\u00d6ZG\u00dcRL\u00dcK-MEYDANI-IRAN-TEHRAN-SQUARE-OF-FREEDOM.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"1619\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"1080\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Hayrettin Ka\u011fn\u0131c\u0131\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Yazan:\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Hayrettin Ka\u011fn\u0131c\u0131\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Tahmini okuma s\u00fcresi\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"59 dakika\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/hayrettinkagnici.com\/tr\/?p=14494\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/hayrettinkagnici.com\/tr\/?p=14494\",\"name\":\"Kuzey \u0130ran 2022 - 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