{"id":13856,"date":"2022-01-06T17:15:51","date_gmt":"2022-01-06T14:15:51","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/hayrettinkagnici.com\/?p=13856"},"modified":"2022-01-09T14:12:34","modified_gmt":"2022-01-09T11:12:34","slug":"ozbekistan-2021-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/hayrettinkagnici.com\/tr\/ozbekistan-2021-2\/","title":{"rendered":"\u00d6zbekistan 2021"},"content":{"rendered":"

\u00d6ZBEK\u0130STAN CUMHUR\u0130YET\u0130<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u00d6zbekistan\u2019\u0131n co\u011frafi durumunu yani haritadaki yerini biliyoruz ama gene de k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir hat\u0131rlatma ile ba\u015flayal\u0131m; Kuzeyde Kazakistan, kuzeydo\u011fuda K\u0131rg\u0131zistan, g\u00fcneydo\u011fuda Tacikistan, g\u00fcneyde Afganistan ve g\u00fcneybat\u0131da T\u00fcrkmenistan ile kom\u015fu olan yedi ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131z T\u00fcrk devletinden biridir.<\/p>\n

Resmi dili T\u00fcrk dillerinden Uygur grubuna ait \u00d6zbek\u00e7edir ve n\u00fcfusun %74’\u00fc bu dili konu\u015fur. 2002 y\u0131l\u0131ndan itibaren Kiril alfabesinden Latin alfabesine ge\u00e7ilmi\u015f ancak Kiril alfabesi de yayg\u0131n olarak kullan\u0131lmaktad\u0131r. N\u00fcfusun b\u00fcy\u00fck \u00e7o\u011funlu\u011fu Rus\u00e7a bilir ve konu\u015fur.<\/p>\n

449 bin km2<\/sup> y\u00fcz \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fcml\u00fc,\u00a035 milyon n\u00fcfuslu Orta Asya\u2019n\u0131n \u00f6nemli \u00fclkelerinden \u00d6zbekistan\u2019\u0131n ba\u015fkenti Ta\u015fkent, 2000 y\u0131l\u0131ndan itibaren b\u00fcy\u00fck bir de\u011fi\u015fime u\u011fram\u0131\u015f, ba\u015fta T\u00fcrk firmalar\u0131 olmak \u00fczere pek \u00e7ok firma b\u00fcy\u00fck yat\u0131r\u0131mlar yapm\u0131\u015flard\u0131r. \u00c7ok katl\u0131 binalar, al\u0131\u015fveri\u015f merkezleri, yeni konutlar\u0131 ile 2 milyon n\u00fcfuslu modern \u015fehir durumundad\u0131r. Ta\u015fkent, parklar\u0131, m\u00fczeleri, binalar\u0131 ile h\u0131zla de\u011fi\u015fen ve geli\u015fen b\u00fcy\u00fck bir \u015fehir halini alm\u0131\u015f, yeni binalar\u0131n in\u015fas\u0131 s\u00fcrerken, \u015fehrin tarihi g\u00f6r\u00fcnt\u00fcs\u00fcn\u00fcn korunmas\u0131na da \u00f6nem verilmektedir.<\/p>\n

Lihten\u015ftayn ile birlikte d\u00fcnyada denize k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131 olmayan \u00fclkelere s\u0131n\u0131r kom\u015fusu olan iki \u00fclkeden biridir. \u00d6zbekistan n\u00fcfusunun %88’i M\u00fcsl\u00fcman, %9’u ise Ortodoks’tur.<\/p>\n

**<\/p>\n

\u00d6zbekistan\u2019a, Tacikistan taraf\u0131ndaki s\u0131n\u0131r kap\u0131s\u0131ndan giriyoruz. Buraya en yak\u0131n, tarihi \u0130pek Yolu\u2019nun \u00f6nemli kav\u015faklar\u0131ndan, \u00d6zbekistan\u2019\u0131n 1 milyon n\u00fcfuslu, \u00f6nemli tarihi kenti Semerkant\u2019a gidiyoruz.<\/p>\n

Semerkant \u015fehri;<\/strong> \u00d6zbekistan’\u0131n 12 vilayetinden biri olan Semerkant vilayetinin idari merkezidir ayr\u0131ca Zeref\u015fan Nehri Vadisi\u2019nde, n\u00fcfus a\u00e7\u0131s\u0131ndan en b\u00fcy\u00fck ikinci, tarihi ve sosyo-k\u00fclt\u00fcrel a\u00e7\u0131dan da en \u00f6nemli \u015fehridir. 2500 sene \u00f6ncesine dayanan tarihiyle d\u00fcnyan\u0131n en eski \u015fehirleri aras\u0131nda yer alan Semerkant, \u0130pek Yolu’nun \u00f6nemli kav\u015fak noktas\u0131 olmas\u0131 nedeniyle tarih boyunca siyasi, ekonomik ve k\u00fclt\u00fcrel a\u00e7\u0131dan \u00f6nemli bir yerle\u015fim yeri olmu\u015f, bu nedenle de bir\u00e7ok \u00e7at\u0131\u015fmalara sahne olmu\u015ftur.<\/p>\n

M\u00d6 329’da B\u00fcy\u00fck \u0130skender taraf\u0131ndan ele ge\u00e7irilen \u015fehir, Helenistik d\u00f6nemde geli\u015fmeye devam etti. 711’de M\u00fcsl\u00fcman Araplar taraf\u0131ndan fethedildikten sonra \u0130slam medeniyetinin \u00f6nemli \u015fehirlerinden biri haline geldi. \u0130slam co\u011frafyac\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131n yan\u0131 s\u0131ra do\u011fulu ve bat\u0131l\u0131 seyyahlar taraf\u0131ndan da \u0130sl\u00e2m\u2019\u0131n kubbesi ve d\u00fcnya cennetlerinin en \u00f6nde geleni \u015feklinde tan\u0131mland\u0131.<\/p>\n

Semerkant’a muazzam g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcn\u00fc veren tarihi yap\u0131lar\u0131n bulundu\u011fu Registan Meydan\u0131 bug\u00fcnk\u00fc \u015feklini 17. y\u00fczy\u0131lda, Buhara Hanl\u0131\u011f\u0131 d\u00f6neminde alm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. 1924 y\u0131l\u0131nda kurulan \u00d6zbekistan Sovyet Sosyalist Cumhuriyeti’nin ba\u015fkenti oldu. Semerkant\u2019\u0131n \u00f6nemli tarihi miras\u0131 Registan Meydan\u0131, her \u015feyi ile g\u00f6r\u00fclmeye de\u011fer yerlerdendir.<\/p>\n

2001 y\u0131l\u0131nda Unesco D\u00fcnya Miras Alanlar\u0131 Listesi’ne eklenmi\u015ftir.<\/p>\n

**<\/p>\n

\u00d6nce, Timur’un mozolesine, an\u0131t mezar\u0131na gidiyoruz.<\/p>\n

Timur Malik Mozolesi; <\/em><\/strong>Tarihte \u00f6nemli komutanlardan biri olan Timur, \u00d6zbekistan\u2019\u0131n milli kahramanlar\u0131ndand\u0131r. Babas\u0131 Mo\u011fol, annesi T\u00fcrk olarak bilinen Timur, genelde \u00d6zbek olarak bilinir. Sava\u015fta aya\u011f\u0131ndan yaralan\u0131p aksak y\u00fcr\u00fcd\u00fc\u011f\u00fc i\u00e7in “Aksak Timur” olarak ge\u00e7er ancak\u00a0bu ifade burada pek sevilmez, hafif a\u015fa\u011f\u0131lanma olarak kabul edilir ve “Amir Timur”, \u201cTimur Malik\u201d veya \u201cEmir Timur\u201d olarak an\u0131l\u0131r.<\/p>\n

Timur’un veliaht tayin etti\u011fi torunu Muhammed Sultan Mirza taraf\u0131ndan 1399 y\u0131l\u0131nda ba\u015flat\u0131lan yap\u0131n\u0131n in\u015fas\u0131, Muhammed Sultan Mirza’n\u0131n \u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcn\u00fcn ard\u0131ndan Timur taraf\u0131ndan 1404 y\u0131l\u0131nda tamamlanm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Tamamland\u0131ktan k\u0131sa bir s\u00fcre sonra, 18 \u015eubat 1405’te \u00f6len Timur bu yap\u0131ya defnedilmi\u015ftir. Bu tarihten sonra k\u00fclliye Gur-i Emir ad\u0131yla an\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. \u201cGur-i Amir\u201d, Fars\u00e7a “Kral\u0131n Mezar\u0131” anlam\u0131ndad\u0131r.<\/p>\n

Masmavi kubbeli bu mimari kompleks, Timur soyunun aile kabristan\u0131 haline gelmi\u015f ve hanedan \u00fcyelerinin \u00f6nemli \u00fcyeleri bu t\u00fcrbeye defnedilmi\u015ftir. T\u00fcrbede Timur’un torunlar\u0131ndan Muhammed Sultan Mirza, Pir Muhammed Mirza, Ulu\u011f Bey ve Timur’un o\u011fullar\u0131ndan Miran\u015fah Mirza ve \u015eahruh Mirza defnedilmi\u015ftir. T\u00fcrbede hanedandan olmayan tek ki\u015fi ise Timur’un hocas\u0131 olan Seyyid Bereke’dir.<\/p>\n

Amir Timur;<\/em><\/strong> \u00d6zbekistan\u2019\u0131n unutulmaz milli kahraman\u0131d\u0131r.\u00a01336 tarihinde \u00d6zbekistan’\u0131n Ke\u015f \u015fehrinde do\u011fan, Orta Asya co\u011frafyas\u0131n\u0131n en \u00f6nemli askeri ve siyasi dehalar\u0131ndan biri olarak kabul edilen Mo\u011fol as\u0131ll\u0131 Timur, sa\u011f aya\u011f\u0131 aksak \u015fekilde y\u00fcr\u00fcd\u00fc\u011f\u00fc i\u00e7in Fars\u00e7a \u201cTimurlenk\u201d T\u00fcrk\u00e7e olarak ise \u201cAksak Timur\u201d olarak bilinir.<\/p>\n

Timur \u0130mparatorlu\u011fu’nun kurucusu ve ilk h\u00fck\u00fcmdar\u0131 olan Amir Timur, 1370\u2019ten itibaren d\u00fczenledi\u011fi seferlerle g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczdeki Orta Asya, Rusya, \u0130ran, Hindistan, Afganistan, Kafkasya, Orta Do\u011fu ve Anadolu’nun b\u00fcy\u00fck bir b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcn\u00fc ele ge\u00e7irmi\u015ftir.<\/p>\n

Timur’un d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcncesi, Cengiz Han’\u0131n \u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcnden sonra par\u00e7alanan ve onun torunlar\u0131 taraf\u0131ndan kurulan \u00c7a\u011fatay Hanl\u0131\u011f\u0131, \u0130lhanl\u0131lar ve Alt\u0131n Orda Devleti Han\u0131 Toktam\u0131\u015f kal\u0131nt\u0131lar\u0131 \u00fczerinde kurulan Cengiz \u0130mparatorlu\u011fu\u2019nu tek bir siyasi \u00e7at\u0131 alt\u0131nda yeniden aya\u011fa kald\u0131rmakt\u0131. Seferleri de bu d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcncesini do\u011frular niteliktedir ve saltanat\u0131n\u0131n sonuna do\u011fru bunu b\u00fcy\u00fck \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fcde ba\u015farm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. \u00d6nce yeniden birle\u015ftirdi\u011fi \u00c7a\u011fatay ulusunun ba\u015f\u0131na ge\u00e7ti. Ard\u0131ndan bat\u0131da H\u00fclag\u00fb Han topraklar\u0131n\u0131 kendi h\u00fck\u00fcmdarl\u0131\u011f\u0131na katt\u0131ktan sonra kuzeye y\u00f6nelip, Alt\u0131n Orda Hanl\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u00fczerinde egemenlik sa\u011flad\u0131. Ancak 1405 y\u0131l\u0131nda \u00c7in’i fethetmek \u00fczere d\u00fczenledi\u011fi seferde yolda hastalanarak vefat etti. Timur, hayat\u0131 boyunca Cengiz Han\u2019\u0131 \u00f6rnek alm\u0131\u015f, onun yasalar\u0131na \u00e7ok \u00f6nem vermi\u015fti. Cengiz Han soyundan Kazan Han’\u0131n k\u0131z\u0131 Saray M\u00fclk Han\u0131m’\u0131 nik\u00e2h\u0131na alarak Mo\u011folca damat anlam\u0131na gelen K\u00fcregen lakab\u0131n\u0131 ta\u015f\u0131maya hak kazanm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Cengiz Han’\u0131n soyundan gelmedi\u011fi i\u00e7in “Han” unvan\u0131 yerine “Emir” unvan\u0131n\u0131 kullanm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n

Timur, bir yandan Cengiz yasas\u0131n\u0131n uygulay\u0131c\u0131s\u0131 olurken di\u011fer taraftan kendine \u0130slam\u2019\u0131n K\u0131l\u0131c\u0131 yak\u0131\u015ft\u0131rmas\u0131 ile fetihlerini me\u015frula\u015ft\u0131rmak amac\u0131yla \u0130slami semboller kullanm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. 1398’de Hindistan’da Delhi Sultanl\u0131\u011f\u0131, 1401’de Suriye’de Memluk Devleti ve 1402’de Ankara Sava\u015f\u0131’nda Osmanl\u0131 Devleti’ne kar\u015f\u0131 kazand\u0131\u011f\u0131 zaferlerden sonra \u0130slam d\u00fcnyas\u0131ndaki en b\u00fcy\u00fck g\u00fc\u00e7 konumuna gelmi\u015fti.<\/p>\n

Registan Meydan\u0131, Semerkant\u2019\u0131n en \u00f6nemli yelerindem.<\/p>\n

Registan Meydan\u0131;<\/em><\/strong> Registan, Orta Asya T\u00fcrk \u0130slam mimarisinin nadir \u00f6rneklerinden biridir. XV. as\u0131rda Emir Timur\u2019un torunu Ulu\u011f Bey taraf\u0131ndan yapt\u0131r\u0131lan muhte\u015fem renkli mozaikler ile kaplanm\u0131\u015f \u00fc\u00e7 ayr\u0131 medresenin bir arada bulundu\u011fu meydan, Semerkant’\u0131n merkezindedir.<\/p>\n

Registan Meydan\u0131 \u00fc\u00e7 ayr\u0131 medreseden olu\u015fur.<\/p>\n

Ulu\u011f Ney Medresesi<\/em><\/strong>; \u201cKum \u00fclkesi\u201d anlam\u0131nda olan Registan Meydan\u0131\u2019nda, Astrolog, Matematik\u00e7i, Bilim Adam\u0131 Ulu\u011f Bey taraf\u0131ndan yapt\u0131r\u0131lan ilk medresede fen bilimlerine, \u00f6zelikle matematik, fizik, astronomi gibi bilimlere a\u011f\u0131rl\u0131k verilmesi istenmi\u015ftir. \u0130lk medresenin kurulu\u015fuyla birlikte, b\u00fct\u00fcn bayramlar, festivaller ve pazar g\u00fcn\u00fc pazar\u0131 da burada kurulmaya ve kutlanmaya ba\u015flam\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Medrese, \u0130slam dininin y\u00fcksek okullar\u0131 say\u0131l\u0131r. Ulu\u011f Bey Medresesi, 1417-1420 tarihlerinde Ulu\u011f Bey taraf\u0131ndan kurulmu\u015f ve bizzat kendisi burada, \u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcne kadar matematik ve astronomi dersleri vermi\u015ftir.<\/p>\n

\u015eir-Dor Medresesi;<\/em><\/strong> Ulu\u011f Bey\u2019in \u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcnden 200 y\u0131l sonra, Semerkant\u2019\u0131n y\u00f6neticisi olan Yalangtu\u015f Bahadur\u2019un emriyle birinci medresenin bir kopyas\u0131 olarak, ikinci bir medrese yapt\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f ve \u015eir-Dor Medresesi ad\u0131 verilmi\u015ftir. Aralar\u0131ndaki tek fark yeni medresede k\u0131\u015f aylar\u0131nda kullan\u0131lmak \u00fczere haz\u0131rlanm\u0131\u015f fazladan iki tane e\u011fitim hol\u00fc olmas\u0131d\u0131r. Bunun d\u0131\u015f\u0131ndaki ana yap\u0131 birinci medrese ile ayn\u0131d\u0131r. Ulu\u011f Bey Medresesi’nin tam kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131nda yer alan medrese, 1619-1635 y\u0131llar\u0131nda in\u015fa edilmi\u015ftir.<\/p>\n

Tilla-Kar\u0131 Medresesi;<\/em><\/strong> Bundan birka\u00e7 y\u0131l sonra, tekrar ayn\u0131 y\u00f6neticinin emriyle \u00fc\u00e7\u00fcnc\u00fc medrese, Tilla-Kar\u0131 yapt\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Ulu\u011f Bey Medresesi ile \u015eir-Dor Medresesi aras\u0131nda 1647-1659 y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131nda in\u015fa edilen medresedir. D\u0131\u015ftan g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fc di\u011fer iki medreseye benzemekle birlikte bu medresenin i\u00e7 yap\u0131s\u0131 biraz farkl\u0131d\u0131r. Medreseler benzer planda in\u015fa edilmi\u015ftir. D\u00f6rt k\u00f6\u015feli bir bah\u00e7e, d\u00f6rt teras ve \u00e7evre boyunca s\u0131ralanm\u0131\u015f odalar. Oda kap\u0131lar\u0131 \u0130slam dininde \u00f6nemli bir \u00f6zellik olan sayg\u0131 ve al\u00e7ak g\u00f6n\u00fcll\u00fc\u011f\u00fc vurgulamak i\u00e7in \u00f6zellikle al\u00e7ak yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Kap\u0131lardan girerken ve \u00e7\u0131karken mutlaka ba\u015f\u0131n\u0131z\u0131 e\u011fmeniz gerekir.<\/p>\n

Sadece Tilla-Kari Medresesi, medrese olarak yap\u0131lmas\u0131na kar\u015f\u0131n minareleriyle, \u00e7o\u011funlukla cami olarak kullan\u0131ld\u0131. 17. y\u00fczy\u0131lda Tilla-Kari Semerkant\u2019taki en b\u00fcy\u00fck cami idi. 19. y\u00fczy\u0131la kadar cami ve medrese olarak kullan\u0131lan yap\u0131lar, 20. y\u00fczy\u0131l\u0131n ba\u015f\u0131ndan itibaren tarihi eser olarak korunmaya al\u0131nm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n

\u00dcst katlar\u0131 yatakhane olan, alt katlar\u0131nda e\u011fitim yap\u0131lan medreselerde s\u0131navla al\u0131nan paras\u0131z yat\u0131l\u0131 y\u00fczlerce \u00f6\u011frenci, ba\u015fta Ulu\u011f Bey medresesi olmak teoloji, astronomi ve felsefe \u00fczerine dersler al\u0131yordu. 15. y\u00fczy\u0131lda Orta Asya\u2019n\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck e\u011fitim kurumuydu ve verilen e\u011fitimin kalitesiyle \u00fcn salm\u0131\u015ft\u0131.<\/p>\n

Ulu\u011f Bey, Buhara\u2019da daha m\u00fctevazi bir medrese yapt\u0131rm\u0131\u015f, kap\u0131lar\u0131n \u00fczerine \u201cAkl\u0131n\u0131 ayd\u0131nlatmak her M\u00fcsl\u00fcman erkek ve kad\u0131n\u0131n g\u00f6revidir.\u201d<\/em><\/strong> yazd\u0131rm\u0131\u015ft\u0131.<\/p>\n

Ulu\u011f Bey Medresesi\u2019nin iki kap\u0131s\u0131 vard\u0131r ve her ikisinin de \u00fczerinde “Bilim \u00c7in\u2019de de olsa, k\u0131z veya erkek gidin, bulun.”<\/em><\/strong> yaz\u0131yor. Medresenin bu \u015fekilde e\u011fitiminden rahats\u0131z olan din adamlar\u0131 medreseleri kapatt\u0131rmak isterler ama g\u00fc\u00e7leri pek yetmeyince Ulu\u011f Bey’in \u00f6ld\u00fcr\u00fclmesi i\u00e7in u\u011fra\u015f verirler.<\/p>\n

1449 y\u0131l\u0131nda Belh’te bulunan o\u011flu Abd\u00fcllatif’in kendine sefer d\u00fczenleyece\u011fi haberi \u00fczerine Ulu\u011f Bey kar\u015f\u0131 harekete ge\u00e7er ve Ceyhun k\u0131y\u0131lar\u0131nda kar\u015f\u0131la\u015fan kuvvetler aras\u0131nda k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck \u00e7apl\u0131 \u00e7arp\u0131\u015fmalar olur. Ayn\u0131 zamanda Semerkant’ta da Ulu\u011f Bey\u2019e kar\u015f\u0131 isyan ba\u015flar, geri d\u00f6n\u00fcp isyan\u0131 bast\u0131ran Ulu\u011f Bey tekrar sava\u015f alan\u0131na d\u00f6ner ve o\u011flu Abd\u00fcllatif ile \u00e7at\u0131\u015fma sonucunda, Semerkant yak\u0131nlar\u0131ndaki D\u0131ma\u015fk k\u00f6y\u00fc yak\u0131nlar\u0131nda o\u011fluna yenik d\u00fc\u015fer. Bir s\u00fcre ka\u00e7t\u0131ktan sonra Semerkant’a d\u00f6nerek teslim olur. Teslim olduktan sonra Hacca gitmek i\u00e7in o\u011flunun iznini alan Ulu\u011f Bey, yolda o\u011flunun adamlar\u0131 taraf\u0131ndan \u00f6ld\u00fcr\u00fcl\u00fcr.<\/p>\n

Bilin\u00e7siz dindarl\u0131\u011f\u0131n yaratt\u0131\u011f\u0131 yobazl\u0131k b\u00f6yle bir \u015fey, o\u011ful ile babay\u0131 bile birbirlerine d\u00fc\u015fman eder.<\/p>\n

Hz. Muhammed’in de bu anlamda s\u00f6z\u00fc vard\u0131r,\u00a0“B\u00fct\u00fcn g\u00fcn ibadet edece\u011fine 2 saat bilimle u\u011fra\u015f.” \u00a0Anlayana.<\/p>\n

Depremler sonucunda zarar g\u00f6ren tarihi yap\u0131lar, yap\u0131lan g\u00fc\u00e7lendirme \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmalar\u0131 ile depreme kar\u015f\u0131 dayan\u0131kl\u0131 hale getirilmi\u015ftir.<\/p>\n

Semerkant, tarih boyunca pek \u00e7ok sava\u015f ve y\u0131k\u0131m g\u00f6rm\u00fc\u015f, pek \u00e7ok kere de yeniden in\u015fa edilmi\u015ftir. Semerkant\u2019\u0131n tarihi boyunca \u00fc\u00e7 b\u00fcy\u00fck trajedi ya\u015fanm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n

    \n
  1. \u0130lk trajedi milattan \u00f6nce 329 y\u0131l\u0131nda \u015fehrin B\u00fcy\u00fck \u0130skender\u2019e ge\u00e7mesi s\u0131ras\u0131nda ya\u015fanm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. \u015eehir tamamen y\u0131k\u0131lm\u0131\u015f ve \u015fehir halk\u0131 yok edilmi\u015ftir. Daha sonra \u015fehir Do\u011fu ve Yunan tarz\u0131 yap\u0131larla tekrar kurulmu\u015ftur.<\/li>\n
  2. \u0130kinci ciddi de\u011fi\u015fiklik 8. y\u00fczy\u0131lda Araplar\u0131n b\u00f6lgeyi istilas\u0131yla ya\u015fanm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Farkl\u0131 inan\u00e7lardan \u00e7ok say\u0131da insan\u0131n \u00f6ld\u00fcr\u00fclmesi ile b\u00f6lge tamamen \u0130slam dinine ge\u00e7mi\u015ftir.<\/li>\n
  3. \u00dc\u00e7\u00fcnc\u00fc b\u00fcy\u00fck trajedi, 13. y\u00fczy\u0131lda Cengiz Han\u2019\u0131n b\u00f6lgeyi istilas\u0131d\u0131r. B\u00f6lgedeki pek \u00e7ok yerler gibi Semerkant da tamamen y\u0131k\u0131lm\u0131\u015f ve harabeye d\u00f6nm\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcr.<\/li>\n
  4. y\u00fczy\u0131lda Timur, \u015fehrin y\u00f6netimini devral\u0131ncaya kadar bu \u015fekilde kalan \u015fehir, \u00f6zellikle Timur \u0130mparatorlu\u011fu\u2019nun ba\u015fkenti olmas\u0131 sebebiyle de yeniden imar edilmi\u015ftir. Timur, ele ge\u00e7irdi\u011fi \u00fclkelerden getirdi\u011fi bilim adamlar\u0131 ve mimarlar ile \u015fehrin farkl\u0131 k\u00fclt\u00fcrlerden izler ta\u015f\u0131yan mimarisini olu\u015fturmu\u015f, matematik\u00e7i, astronom, m\u00fczisyenler ile de Semerkant\u2019\u0131n bir bilim ve k\u00fclt\u00fcr merkezi olmas\u0131n\u0131 sa\u011flam\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

    Semerkant tarihindeki en h\u0131zl\u0131 geli\u015fmeyi Timur\u2019un 35 y\u0131ll\u0131k imparatorlu\u011fu s\u0131ras\u0131nda ya\u015fam\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n

    **<\/p>\n

    \u201cY\u00fczy\u0131llar \u00f6ncesinde k\u00e2\u011f\u0131t nas\u0131l yap\u0131l\u0131rd\u0131?\u201d diye merak ettik ve nas\u0131l yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 \u00f6\u011frenmek i\u00e7in her taraf\u0131ndan sular akan geni\u015f arazi \u00fczerinde dut yapra\u011f\u0131ndan k\u00e2\u011f\u0131t yap\u0131lan yere gidiyoruz. Dut a\u011fac\u0131n\u0131n ince dallar\u0131n\u0131 iyice d\u00f6vd\u00fckten sonra kaynat\u0131p i\u00e7indeki sel\u00fclozu i\u015flemlerden ge\u00e7irip y\u00fczeyi d\u00fczg\u00fcn iki ta\u015f aras\u0131nda s\u0131k\u0131\u015ft\u0131r\u0131l\u0131p kurutularak elde edilen k\u00e2\u011f\u0131t, olduk\u00e7a dayan\u0131kl\u0131 olmas\u0131 sebebiyle uzun y\u0131llar belge ve evraklar\u0131n yaz\u0131m\u0131nda kullan\u0131lm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

    Bibi Hatun Cami;\u00a0<\/em><\/strong>yap\u0131m\u0131 Timur\u2019un \u00f6mr\u00fcn\u00fcn son y\u0131llar\u0131nda ba\u015flam\u0131\u015ft\u0131. 1399\u2019da Hindistan seferinden zaferle d\u00f6nen Timur, bu camiyi, g\u00f6zde, ba\u015f han\u0131m anlam\u0131nda Bibi Hatun ad\u0131yla Mo\u011fol k\u00f6kenli e\u015fi Saray M\u00fclk Han\u0131m\u2019a adam\u0131\u015ft\u0131.<\/p>\n

    Timur, Bibi Han\u0131m Cami\u2019nin \u0130ranl\u0131 mimar\u0131ndan, caminin yap\u0131m\u0131 bir y\u0131lda tamamlans\u0131n istemi\u015f, in\u015fas\u0131 1404 y\u0131l\u0131nda tamamlanan caminin ta\u00e7 kap\u0131s\u0131 Timur taraf\u0131ndan fazla dar bulununca y\u0131k\u0131l\u0131p yeniden yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Cuma Camii olarak in\u015fa edilen ve ta\u00e7 kap\u0131 y\u00fcksekli\u011fi 40 m, geni\u015fli\u011fi 46 m olarak yeniden yap\u0131lan Bibi Hatun Cami, Timur\u2019un \u00f6ld\u00fc\u011f\u00fc y\u0131l olan 1405 y\u0131l\u0131nda tamamlanm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n

    Bibi Hatun T\u00fcrbesi de caminin tam kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131nda yer almaktad\u0131r.<\/p>\n

    H\u0131z\u0131r Camii<\/em><\/strong>;<\/strong> Efrasiyab Tepesi\u2019nin \u00fczerine in\u015fa edilen H\u0131z\u0131r Cami, Semerkant\u2019\u0131n en eski camisidir. XIII. y\u00fczy\u0131l\u0131n ba\u015f\u0131nda, Mo\u011fol istilas\u0131nda Cengiz Han’\u0131n askerleri taraf\u0131ndan y\u0131k\u0131lm\u0131\u015f, 1854 y\u0131l\u0131nda Buhara Emiri Muzafferi Khan\u2019\u0131n emriyle Semerkant mimarlar\u0131 ve m\u00fchendisleri taraf\u0131ndan eski temelleri \u00fczerine yeniden in\u015fa edilmi\u015ftir. Sefere \u00e7\u0131kan veya seferden d\u00f6nenler \u00f6nce bu camiye u\u011fray\u0131p \u015f\u00fck\u00fcr namaz\u0131 k\u0131larlarm\u0131\u015f. Eski ba\u015fkanlardan \u0130slam Kerimov \u00f6l\u00fcnce, kendisinin vasiyeti \u00fczerine buraya g\u00f6m\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f. Bundan sonra buran\u0131n ziyaret\u00e7isi \u00e7ok artm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

    Cami Unesco taraf\u0131ndan D\u00fcnya Miras\u0131 Listesi’ne al\u0131nm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n

    Alp Er Tunga M\u00fczesi;<\/em><\/strong> Alp Er Tunga, M\u00d6 7. yy.da T\u00fcrk soyu olan devletlerin ortak birli\u011fi olan Turan Devleti\u2019nin h\u00fck\u00fcmdar\u0131 olarak kabul edilir. Alp; cesur, kahraman, Er; erkek, Tunga; kaplan anlam\u0131na gelir. Yani isminin anlam\u0131 “Cesur erkek kaplan” anlam\u0131ndad\u0131r. Alp Er Tunga, T\u00fcrklerin ortak atas\u0131 say\u0131l\u0131r. Buhara \u015fehrini kurdu\u011fu, orada ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131 ve burada \u00f6ld\u00fc\u011f\u00fc, mezar\u0131n\u0131n da Buhara\u2019da oldu\u011fu tahmin edilen Alp Er Tunga\u2019n\u0131n mezar yeri halen tam olarak bilinmemektedir. O d\u00f6neme ait bilgi ve kal\u0131nt\u0131lar\u0131n sergilendi\u011fi enteresan bir m\u00fcze.<\/p>\n

    \u015eah-\u0131 Zinde;<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0Hz. Muhammed’in amcas\u0131n\u0131n o\u011flu Kusem b. Abbas\u2019\u0131n, M\u00fcsl\u00fcmanl\u0131\u011f\u0131 yaymak i\u00e7in geldi\u011fi Semerkant\u2019ta \u015fehit edildi\u011fi yerde yap\u0131lan t\u00fcrbesi etraf\u0131nda zamanla di\u011fer t\u00fcrbelerin de ilave oldu\u011fu an\u0131t mezarlar mek\u00e2n\u0131. \u00d6zbekistan\u2019da en \u00e7ok ziyaret edilen 2. yerdir.\u00a0 Kusem b. Abbas\u2019\u0131n kabri \u201cya\u015fayan sultan\u201d anlam\u0131nda olan \u201c\u015e\u00e2h-\u0131 Zinde\u201d diye an\u0131lm\u0131\u015f ve b\u00f6lgede zamanla ayn\u0131 isimle an\u0131l\u0131r olmu\u015f.<\/p>\n

    1220\u2019de Cengiz Han kumandas\u0131ndaki Mo\u011follar taraf\u0131ndan tahrip edilen eski Semerkant \u015fehriyle birlikte mezarl\u0131k ve mezarl\u0131ktaki t\u00fcrbeler de tahrip edilmi\u015f, k\u0131smen kurtulmu\u015f olan Kusem b. Abbas T\u00fcrbesi, Mescit ve \u00e7evresi 1335\u2019ten itibaren yeniden d\u00fczenlenmeye ba\u015flanm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n

    Semerkant ge\u00e7mi\u015fte bir\u00e7ok medeniyetin ya\u015fand\u0131\u011f\u0131 yerlerden, her yer tarih konuyor. B\u00f6yle olunca bolca t\u00fcrbe, medrese ve hepsinin de hikayesi var. Genelde hepsi geleneksel \u00d6zbek mimarisi \u00fczerine in\u015fa edilmi\u015f.<\/p>\n

    Geleneksel k\u0131yafetlerle y\u00f6resel danslar\u0131n yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 ak\u015fam g\u00f6sterisi sonras\u0131 g\u00fcn tamamland\u0131. Bug\u00fcn, uzun bir g\u00fcn oldu.<\/p>\n

    **<\/p>\n

    Burada arabalar\u0131n b\u00fcy\u00fck \u00e7o\u011funlu\u011fu beyaz renkli ve \u00e7o\u011funlukla da Chevrolet. Bu, Chevrolet \/ Amerika firmas\u0131n\u0131n ve buradaki sat\u0131c\u0131n\u0131n ba\u015far\u0131s\u0131, b\u00fcy\u00fck pazar yaratm\u0131\u015flar ve\u00a0neredeyse geleneksel hale gelmi\u015f. Beyaz olmas\u0131, g\u00fcne\u015fte fazla \u0131s\u0131nmas\u0131n, s\u0131cak olmas\u0131n diye.<\/p>\n

    Pamuk \u00d6zbekistan\u2019da ger\u00e7ekten beyaz alt\u0131n gibi, her yerinden istifade ediliyor. Bitkinin sap\u0131ndan, sunta benzeri s\u0131k\u0131\u015ft\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f ah\u015fap malzemeler, yakacak, \u00e7ekirde\u011finden de barut yap\u0131l\u0131yor.\u00a0Ger\u00e7i g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde barut farkl\u0131 \u015fekilde yap\u0131l\u0131yor olsa da ge\u00e7mi\u015fte bu yolla elde ediliyordu. Her \u015feyinden istifade edildi\u011fi i\u00e7in beyaz alt\u0131n deniyor.\u00a0Pamuk, \u00fclke kalk\u0131nmas\u0131nda ana hedef olarak g\u00f6r\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f ve pamuk \u00fcretimine yat\u0131r\u0131m yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. \u00d6zbekistan d\u00fcnya pamuk \u00fcretiminde bir numarad\u0131r.<\/p>\n

    Pamuk \u00e7ok \u00e7ok su isteyen bir bitkidir. Bu nedenle \u00fclkenin en b\u00fcy\u00fck su kayna\u011f\u0131 Aral G\u00f6l\u00fc\u2019n\u00fcn sular\u0131 kanallar ile bir\u00e7ok tar\u0131m b\u00f6lgesine ta\u015f\u0131nm\u0131\u015f. Pamuk yeti\u015ftirmek i\u00e7in gerekli su Aral G\u00f6l\u00fc\u2019nden \u00e7ekilmeye ba\u015flan\u0131nca gol\u00fcn sular\u0131 y\u0131llar i\u00e7inde giderek azalmaya ba\u015flam\u0131\u015f ve bug\u00fcn Aral G\u00f6l\u00fc\u2019ndeki su seviyesi eskiye g\u00f6re %5 seviyelerinde. Yani koca Aral G\u00f6l\u00fc\u2019n\u00fcn suyu bitmi\u015f pamuk u\u011fruna.\u00a0Pamuk ne yap\u0131l\u0131yor, genelde ham olarak ihra\u00e7 ediliyor, yani kayma\u011f\u0131n\u0131 ba\u015fkalar\u0131 yiyor. \u015eimdi politikada de\u011fi\u015fiklik yap\u0131lmaya ba\u015flanm\u0131\u015f, katma de\u011fer ilave ederek yani pamu\u011fu i\u015fleyerek, kuma\u015f veya ip olarak ihra\u00e7 etmek i\u00e7in yat\u0131r\u0131mlar yap\u0131lmaya ba\u015flanm\u0131\u015f. Biraz ge\u00e7 olmu\u015f gibi sanki. Bu kadar b\u00fcy\u00fck alanlara ekilen pamuk, end\u00fcstriyel olarak yap\u0131lmazsa, hasat zaman\u0131 pamu\u011fu toplayacak adam bulamazs\u0131n, tarlada kal\u0131r, hele bir de ya\u011fmuru yerse \u00fcr\u00fcn mahvolur. Burada b\u00fct\u00fcn araziler devlete ait ve k\u00f6yl\u00fcler devlet ad\u0131na ekip bi\u00e7iyor. Bu nedenle hasat zaman\u0131 b\u00fct\u00fcn devlet memurlar\u0131, \u00f6\u011fretmenler, askerler, yani devletten maa\u015f alan herkes ve de \u00f6\u011frenciler pamuk hasad\u0131 i\u00e7in \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmak zorunda, herhangi bir sebepten \u00f6t\u00fcr\u00fc toplama i\u015fine kat\u0131lamaz ise yerine birini bulmak zorunda.<\/p>\n

    Ak\u015fam bir eve davetliyiz, \u00d6zbek pilav\u0131n\u0131n nas\u0131l yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u00f6\u011frenece\u011fiz, be\u011fenirsek yiyece\u011fiz, bakal\u0131m ne olacak?<\/p>\n

    Sonu\u00e7, gayet g\u00fczel oldu, hepsini yedik yuttuk, yemesi yapmas\u0131ndan daha keyifli geldi.<\/p>\n

    **<\/p>\n

    Buhara\u2019ya gidiyoruz, yolumuz \u00fczerinde \u00e7ok \u00f6nemli yerlerden \u015eahr-i Sabz.<\/p>\n

    \u015eahr-i Sabz;<\/em><\/strong> Kelime anlam\u0131 olarak \u015fehir ve sebze kelimelerinin birle\u015fmesi, ancak sebze burada ye\u015fil, ye\u015fillik anlam\u0131nda yani ye\u015fil \u015fehir anlam\u0131nda. Burada t\u00fcrbeden bol bir \u015fey yok.\u00a0Timur\u2019un birinci derece yak\u0131nlar\u0131n\u0131n t\u00fcrbeleri burada. 2,700 y\u0131l \u00f6nce kurulmu\u015f, Asya’n\u0131n en eski \u015fehirlerinden biri \u015eahr-i Sabz.<\/p>\n

    \u015eehrin eski yerle\u015fim b\u00f6lgesinde bir\u00e7ok kutsal t\u00fcrbelerin oldu\u011fu kompleks bulunuyor. Tarihi alanlar 2000 y\u0131l\u0131nda Unesco taraf\u0131ndan bir D\u00fcnya Miras\u0131 olarak ilan edilmi\u015f, 2016 y\u0131l\u0131nda da turistik olarak a\u015f\u0131r\u0131 geli\u015fiminden dolay\u0131 b\u00f6lge, tehlike alt\u0131ndaki D\u00fcnya Miraslar\u0131 Listesi\u2019ne eklemi\u015ftir.<\/p>\n

    \u00d6nemli t\u00fcrbelerden Dorol Tilavet ve Dorol Saadet\u2019i ziyaret ediyoruz. T\u00fcrbe deyince, cami, d\u00fckkanlar, ziyaret alanlar\u0131 gibi birimlerin oldu\u011fu kocaman yerler. Cuma Camii ve Amir Timur\u2019un \u00f6ld\u00fckten sonra g\u00f6m\u00fclmek istedi\u011fi mezar\u0131 da burada.<\/p>\n

    Timur\u2019un mezar odas\u0131<\/em><\/strong>;<\/em> 1960 y\u0131l\u0131nda k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir k\u0131z \u00e7ocu\u011funun Timur Mozolesi yak\u0131nlar\u0131nda oynarken \u00fczerine bast\u0131\u011f\u0131 topra\u011f\u0131n \u00e7\u00f6k\u00fcp a\u00e7\u0131lan \u00e7ukura d\u00fc\u015fmesiyle varl\u0131\u011f\u0131 bilinen ama daha \u00f6nce bulunamayan, Timur\u2019un gizli mezar odas\u0131 ortaya \u00e7\u0131kar. Devasa bir lahit ve duvar\u0131ndaki yaz\u0131tta Timur\u2019un mezar odas\u0131 oldu\u011fu kay\u0131tl\u0131yd\u0131. A\u011f\u0131rl\u0131\u011f\u0131 nedeniyle lahdin kapa\u011f\u0131 zorlukla a\u00e7\u0131labilmi\u015f ve i\u00e7inin bo\u015f oldu\u011fu g\u00f6r\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f. Asya gelene\u011finde, kaanlar, hanlar, h\u00fck\u00fcmdarlar genelde \u00f6ld\u00fckten sonra mezar yerlerinin bilenmesini istemezlerdi. H\u00fck\u00fcmranl\u0131k d\u00f6nemlerinde can\u0131n\u0131 yakt\u0131klar\u0131 insanlar\u0131n mezarlar\u0131n\u0131 da\u011f\u0131tmas\u0131ndan veya mezar ba\u015f\u0131nda beddua edilmesinden korkarlard\u0131. Bu, o d\u00f6nem Asya\u2019da, ge\u00e7mi\u015fte h\u00e2kim olan pagan inan\u00e7lar\u0131n\u0131n etkisiyle, ruhlar\u0131n\u0131n azap i\u00e7inde olacaklar\u0131 inanc\u0131yd\u0131.\u00a0 Bug\u00fcn, Cengiz Han\u2019\u0131n mezar yeri halen bilinmemektedir.<\/p>\n

    Ak Saray;<\/em><\/strong> \u00c7in s\u0131n\u0131r\u0131ndan Ege Denizi\u2019ne kadar, o g\u00fcnk\u00fc co\u011frafyan\u0131n b\u00fcy\u00fck b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcn\u00fc ele ge\u00e7irmesine ra\u011fmen, Timur do\u011fdu\u011fu yer \u015eahr-\u0131 Sabz ile ba\u011flant\u0131s\u0131n\u0131 koparmad\u0131. Bug\u00fcn b\u00fcy\u00fck bir b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fc y\u0131k\u0131lm\u0131\u015f olan yazl\u0131k konutu Ak Saray\u2019\u0131 yapt\u0131rd\u0131. Bug\u00fcn \u00e7ok az b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fc ayakta kalsa da Ak Saray\u2019\u0131n b\u00fcy\u00fck bah\u00e7esi \u00fczerinde, sava\u015f\u00e7\u0131 k\u0131yafeti i\u00e7inde b\u00fcy\u00fck heykeli bulunur. Bu an\u0131t\u0131n \u00e7evresi, \u00d6zbek halk\u0131 i\u00e7in \u00f6nemli mek\u00e2nlardand\u0131r. Yeni evlenenlerin ilk ziyaret yeridir, bayramlarda aileler, \u00e7ocuklar\u0131na en iyi elbiselerini giydirerek buraya getirirler.<\/p>\n

    Saray\u0131n yap\u0131m\u0131na 1380 y\u0131l\u0131nda ba\u015flanm\u0131\u015f ve neredeyse h\u00fck\u00fcmdar\u0131n \u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcne kadar 24 y\u0131l s\u00fcrm\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcr. Saray, alt\u0131n, masmavi ve renkli \u00e7inilerle zengin bir \u015fekilde dekore edilmi\u015f ya\u015fam alanlar\u0131na sahip birka\u00e7 avludan olu\u015fmakta ve zemin beyaz \u00e7inilerle d\u00f6\u015fenmi\u015f. Bug\u00fcn, g\u00f6rkemli yap\u0131dan yaln\u0131zca etkileyici boyutta olan giri\u015f partal\u0131n\u0131n s\u00fctunlar\u0131 ayakta kalm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Bir zamanlar Orta Asya’n\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fc\u011f\u00fc olan kap\u0131n\u0131n kemeri, neredeyse 300 y\u0131l \u00f6nce \u00e7\u00f6km\u00fc\u015f. Saray\u0131n ayakta kalan yerleri, restore edilerek, k\u00fclt\u00fcrel e\u011flence ve insanlar\u0131n dinlenmesi i\u00e7in bir park yeri olarak d\u00fczenlendi. Burada her yerde \u00d6zbeklerin k\u00fclt\u00fcrel miras\u0131n\u0131 sergiledikleri \u00e7e\u015fitli sanat festivalleri d\u00fczenleniyor. Ak-Saray Saray\u0131, Unesco D\u00fcnya Miras\u0131 Listesi’nde yer al\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

    Her \u015feyin en b\u00fcy\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn\u00fc yapma tutkusu. Hem en b\u00fcy\u00fc\u011f\u00fc olsun hem \u00e7ok \u00e7abuk olsun, olmuyor, dayan\u0131ks\u0131z oluyor. Muhte\u015fem yap\u0131dan \u00e7ok az b\u00f6l\u00fcm, hasarl\u0131 vaziyette ayakta.<\/p>\n

    Devam ediyoruz yolumuza Buhara\u2019ya do\u011fru, yolda her taraf alabildi\u011fine pamuk tarlas\u0131, bu kadar mahsul makinalar olmadan nas\u0131l toplan\u0131r, \u00e7ok kolay de\u011fil. Dald\u0131k pamuklar\u0131n i\u00e7ine, ba\u015flad\u0131k pamuk toplamaya. Bast\u0131\u011f\u0131n yerler sulama kanallar\u0131ndan gelen sularla \u00e7amurla\u015fm\u0131\u015f, pamuklar\u0131 toplayal\u0131m dedik her taraf\u0131m\u0131za dikenler batt\u0131, kibar olal\u0131m, iki parmakla nazik\u00e7e toplayal\u0131m dedik kopmuyor, sa\u011flam yakalamak gerekiyor. Bu i\u015fi yapanlara kolayl\u0131k diledik, dualar\u0131m\u0131z onlara olsun. Anlad\u0131k ki \u00f6yle uzaktan bakarak ahkam kesmekle olmuyor bu i\u015fler.<\/p>\n

    Hava kararm\u0131\u015ft\u0131, Buhara’ya geldik.\u00a0Ak\u015fam buran\u0131n yerlisi bir ailenin evine misafir olduk.<\/p>\n

    **<\/p>\n

    Buhara, gezinin \u00f6nemli duraklar\u0131ndan, bug\u00fcn g\u00fczel ve uzun olacak, ba\u015fl\u0131yoruz antik kenti bir ba\u015ftan bir ba\u015fa dola\u015fmaya.<\/p>\n

    Buhara,<\/em><\/strong> tarihi \u0130pek Yolu\u2019nun \u00f6nemli kav\u015faklar\u0131ndan ve \u00d6zbekistan\u2019\u0131n en \u00f6nemli k\u00fclt\u00fcr merkezi. Ge\u00e7mi\u015fin, tarihin tam ortas\u0131nday\u0131z, etkilenmemek m\u00fcmk\u00fcn de\u011fil. Otelimiz tam eski \u015fehrin merkezinde. \u015eehre yukar\u0131dan bak\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 zaman \u015fehrin s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131 aynen deve kafas\u0131 gibi g\u00f6z\u00fckt\u00fc\u011f\u00fc i\u00e7in \u015fehrin sembol\u00fc “deve kafas\u0131” olmu\u015f.<\/p>\n

    Zeref\u015fan Nehri havzas\u0131nda b\u00fcy\u00fck bir vahada yer alan Buhara\u2019da, her k\u00f6\u015fe ba\u015f\u0131nda \u0130slam tarihi ve k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcne ait k\u0131ymetli bir esere rastlamak m\u00fcmk\u00fcn. \u00d6zbekistan’\u0131n di\u011fer bir\u00e7ok \u015fehri gibi Buhara\u2019da da bir d\u00f6nemin T\u00fcrk-\u0130slam mimarisinin en g\u00fczel \u00f6rneklerini, ihti\u015faml\u0131 camileri, y\u00fcksek minareleri, mavinin farkl\u0131 tonlar\u0131n\u0131n kullan\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 kervansaraylar\u0131 ve \u00e7inilerle kapl\u0131 medreseleri g\u00f6rebilirsiniz. \u015eehirde, as\u0131rlard\u0131r din adamlar\u0131n\u0131 yeti\u015ftiren baz\u0131 medreseler, g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde de eskiden oldu\u011fu gibi dini e\u011fitimlere devam ediyorlar. T\u00fcrk \u0130slam d\u00fcnyas\u0131n\u0131n \u00f6nemli bilginlerinin yeti\u015fti\u011fi Buhara, \u0130slamiyet\u2019in, Mekke ve Kud\u00fcs\u2019ten sonra gelen \u00fc\u00e7\u00fcnc\u00fc \u00f6nemli \u015fehri durumundad\u0131r.<\/p>\n

    Y\u00fczy\u0131llar boyunca kervanlar\u0131n ge\u00e7ti\u011fi \u00f6nemli ticaret yollar\u0131na ev sahipli\u011fi yapan Buhara, bu \u00f6zelli\u011fiyle farkl\u0131 dinlere mensup insanlar\u0131n yollar\u0131n\u0131n kesi\u015fti\u011fi en kadim \u015fehirlerden biridir. \u00c7e\u015fitli d\u00f6nemlerde Zerd\u00fc\u015ftler, Budistler, Hristiyanlar, Yahudiler ve M\u00fcsl\u00fcmanlara ev sahipli\u011fi yapan \u015fehrin k\u00fclt\u00fcrel ge\u00e7mi\u015finin 2 bin 500 y\u0131l \u00f6ncesine dayand\u0131\u011f\u0131, fakat buradaki ilk insan yerle\u015fimlerinin \u00e7ok daha eskiye uzand\u0131\u011f\u0131 biliniyor.<\/p>\n

    \u015eehir, \u00d6zbekistan topraklar\u0131nda 1599’dan 1920’ye kadar h\u00fck\u00fcm s\u00fcren en b\u00fcy\u00fck 3 hanl\u0131ktan biri olan Buhara Hanl\u0131\u011f\u0131na da ba\u015fkentlik yapm\u0131\u015f. 20’nci y\u00fczy\u0131l\u0131n ba\u015f\u0131na kadar bu hanl\u0131\u011f\u0131n ba\u015fkenti Buhara\u2019yd\u0131, 1920’deki Sovyet i\u015fgali s\u0131ras\u0131nda b\u00fcy\u00fck y\u0131k\u0131m ya\u015fad\u0131 ve \u00e7ok say\u0131da tarihi yap\u0131 hasar g\u00f6rd\u00fc. \u015eehir, modern t\u0131bb\u0131n temel ta\u015flar\u0131n\u0131 koyan, t\u0131p, fizik ve felsefe gibi alanlarda \u00e7ok say\u0131da kitap yazan \u0130bn-i Sina’n\u0131n do\u011fup b\u00fcy\u00fcd\u00fc\u011f\u00fc ve \u00f6nemli \u0130slam alimlerinden \u0130mam Buhari’nin yeti\u015fti\u011fi yerdir.<\/p>\n

    Buhara denince akla ilk gelen yap\u0131 ve bir\u00e7ok dergi, kitaba kapak olan “\u00c7ar Minor”, \u201cD\u00f6rt Minareli Cami”. Orta Asya \u0130slam co\u011frafyas\u0131nda camiler tek minareli olur, bu ender \u00f6rneklerden biridir.<\/p>\n

    \u00c7ar Minor;<\/em><\/strong> Halife Niyaz-kul Medresesi olarak da bilinen, d\u00f6rt minare anlam\u0131nda olan \u00c7ar Minor, g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde mevcut bulunmayan y\u0131k\u0131lm\u0131\u015f bir medrese i\u00e7in in\u015fa edilmi\u015f tarihi bir binad\u0131r. Yap\u0131, 19. y\u00fczy\u0131lda Buhara Hanl\u0131\u011f\u0131 h\u00fck\u00fcmdarl\u0131\u011f\u0131 alt\u0131nda T\u00fcrkmen k\u00f6kenli zengin bir Buharal\u0131 olan Halife Niyaz-kul taraf\u0131ndan yapt\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. D\u00f6rt kuleli yap\u0131n\u0131n arkas\u0131nda bulunan medreselerin kap\u0131lar\u0131ndan biri oldu\u011fu d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fclse de \u00c7ar Minor asl\u0131nda ibadet ve bar\u0131nma olmak \u00fczere iki i\u015flevi olan bir bina kompleksidir. Buhara mimarisinde benzeri olmayan yap\u0131n\u0131n ne ama\u00e7la yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 hakk\u0131nda farkl\u0131 rivayetler vard\u0131r. Ola\u011fan d\u0131\u015f\u0131 d\u0131\u015f g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fc\u015f\u00fcne ra\u011fmen Orta Asya camilerinde tipik olarak g\u00f6r\u00fclen bir i\u00e7 mek\u00e2na sahiptir. Binan\u0131n kubbesi sayesinde y\u00fcksek akustik \u00f6zelliklere sahiptir, bu nedenle ge\u00e7mi\u015fte, Kur\u2019an, ilahi ve enstr\u00fcmantal m\u00fczik dinletilerinin yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u201czikirhane\u201d olarak da kullan\u0131l\u0131rd\u0131.<\/p>\n

    K\u00fclt\u00fcrel miras an\u0131t\u0131 olarak korunan yap\u0131 ayn\u0131 zamanda D\u00fcnya Miras Alan\u0131 Buhara Tarihi Merkezi’nin bir par\u00e7as\u0131d\u0131r.<\/p>\n

    Havuz Camii;<\/em><\/strong> B\u00fcy\u00fck bir havuzun kenar\u0131nda oldu\u011fu i\u00e7in bu isimle an\u0131lmaktad\u0131r. \u0130lk yap\u0131l\u0131\u015f tarihine ili\u015fkin kesin bilgi yoktur. 20. y\u00fczy\u0131lda kapsaml\u0131 bir tadilat ge\u00e7irerek bug\u00fcnk\u00fc halini alm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Normalde bu camide yirmi ah\u015fap s\u00fctun bulunmaktad\u0131r. Caminin giri\u015findeki yirmi s\u00fctun, cami \u00f6n\u00fcndeki havuz suyundaki yans\u0131malarla b\u00fct\u00fcnle\u015fip, k\u0131rk s\u00fctun gibi g\u00f6z\u00fckt\u00fc\u011f\u00fc i\u00e7in halk aras\u0131nda “k\u0131rk s\u00fctunlu cami” olarak da bilinmektedir.<\/p>\n

    Buhara’ya y\u0131llar \u00f6nce gelmi\u015ftim, buradaki en g\u00fczel \u015fehirlerdendir, gezilecek g\u00f6r\u00fclecek \u00e7ok \u00e7ok yer var.<\/p>\n

    Buhara\u2019da 300 cami, 130 medrese var.\u00a0\u00d6zbekistan\u2019da toplamda 2000 cami bulunuyor.\u00a0\u00d6zbekistan\u2019da imamlar maa\u015f almazlar, yap\u0131lan yard\u0131mlarla ya\u015farlar.\u00a0Halk da bunu bilir, i\u015finde g\u00fcc\u00fcnde ba\u015far\u0131l\u0131 olana paray\u0131 esirgemez.\u00a0Sadece hat\u0131rlatma olsun diye, T\u00fcrkiye\u2019de 90 bin cami, 120 bin imam var ve bunlar\u0131n ortalama maa\u015f\u0131 5-6 bin lira civar\u0131nda olup bir\u00e7ok yerde de camilerin lojmanlar\u0131 vard\u0131r. B\u00f6yle olunca para kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131 din \u00f6\u011fretisi yapmaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015fanlar, iyilik ve ahlakl\u0131 olma yolunda ak\u0131l verenler, camilerde siyasi irade taraf\u0131ndan ellerine verilen metni okurlar ve insanlar\u0131 da bu y\u00f6nde etkilemeye \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131rlar. Yani din, iktidar\u0131n sesi olur.<\/p>\n

    \u0130smail Somali T\u00fcrbesi;<\/em><\/strong> Somali Devleti\u2019ni kuran \u0130smail Somali’nin t\u00fcrbesi, 10. y\u00fczy\u0131lda, erken \u0130slam mimarisinin ikonik \u00f6rneklerinden biridir ve Orta Asya mimarisinin en eski mezar binas\u0131 olarak bilinir.<\/p>\n

    MS 900’den 1.000’e kadar h\u00fck\u00fcm s\u00fcren g\u00fc\u00e7l\u00fc ve etkili \u0130slami Samani Aile Hanedanl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131n mezar alan\u0131 olarak in\u015fa edilmi\u015ftir. Ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131klar\u0131n\u0131 Ba\u011fdat merkezli Abbasi Halifeli\u011finden kazanan Samaniler, bug\u00fcnk\u00fc Afganistan, \u0130ran, \u00d6zbekistan, Tacikistan ve Kazakistan’\u0131 kapsayan co\u011frafyaya h\u00fckmetmi\u015flerdir. M\u00fckemmel simetrik, boyutu a\u00e7\u0131s\u0131ndan karma\u015f\u0131k, ancak yap\u0131s\u0131 ile an\u0131tsal olan t\u00fcrbe, So\u011fd, Sasani, Fars ve Klasik gibi farkl\u0131 k\u00fclt\u00fcrlerin \u00e7izgilerini ta\u015f\u0131maktad\u0131r. Ayn\u0131 zamanda yenilik\u00e7i kubbe destek sistemi ve geleneksel orta \u00e7a\u011f \u0130slami bina \u00f6zelliklerini, dairesel kubbe ve mini kubbeler, sivri kemerler, ayr\u0131nt\u0131l\u0131 kap\u0131lar, s\u00fctunlar ve karma\u015f\u0131k geometrik tasar\u0131mlar\u0131 da yans\u0131tmaktad\u0131r. Plan, malzeme ve s\u00fcsleme bak\u0131m\u0131ndan olduk\u00e7a \u00f6nemli bir yere sahip olan yap\u0131 hem Karamanl\u0131 D\u00f6nemi hem B\u00fcy\u00fck Sel\u00e7uklu D\u00f6nemi hem de Anadolu Sel\u00e7uklu D\u00f6nemi t\u00fcrbelerinin \u00f6zelliklerini ta\u015f\u0131maktad\u0131r.<\/p>\n

    Orta Asya\u2019n\u0131n uyan\u0131\u015f d\u00f6nemi olarak kabul edilen 9-10 y\u00fczy\u0131llar\u0131nda da Zerd\u00fc\u015ft geleneklerine g\u00f6re in\u015fa edilmi\u015f ve Cengiz Han istilas\u0131nda y\u0131k\u0131lm\u0131\u015f \u00fc\u00e7 yerden biridir.<\/p>\n

    Buhara Kale;<\/em><\/strong> \u0130lk olarak MS 5. y\u00fczy\u0131lda in\u015fa edilmi\u015f b\u00fcy\u00fck bir kaledir. Askeri bir yap\u0131 olmas\u0131n\u0131n yan\u0131 s\u0131ra, kalenin tarihi boyunca, Buhara’y\u0131 \u00e7evreleyen b\u00f6lgede h\u00e2kim olan \u00e7e\u015fitli kraliyet ailelerinin ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131 bir kasaba durumundayd\u0131. Ark Kale olarak da bilinen Buhara Kale, 1920’de Rusya taraf\u0131ndan ele ge\u00e7irilene kadar kale olarak kullan\u0131ld\u0131. Bug\u00fcn Buhara\u2019n\u0131n en g\u00f6zde yerlerinden olup, tarihi anlatan k\u00fclt\u00fcr merkezi ve m\u00fcze olarak kullan\u0131lmaktad\u0131r.<\/p>\n

    Kalenin giri\u015finde mimari olarak 18. y\u00fczy\u0131ldan kalma iki kule bulunmaktad\u0131r ve bu kulelerin \u00fcst k\u0131s\u0131mlar\u0131 galeri, odalar ve teraslarla birbirine ba\u011flanm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Kademeli olarak y\u00fckselen bir rampa, vin\u00e7le kald\u0131r\u0131lan bir kap\u0131dan sonra Cuma Camisi\u2019ne uzanan uzun bir koridor bulunmaktad\u0131r. Kapal\u0131 bir koridor, depolara ve hapishane h\u00fccrelerine eri\u015fim sa\u011flar. Kalenin merkezinde b\u00fcy\u00fck bir bina kompleksi bulunur, bu binalar\u0131n biri i\u015fkence g\u00f6ren ve bir kuyuya at\u0131lan k\u0131rk k\u0131z efsanesi ile ili\u015fkili Ul’dukhtaron Camii’dir.<\/p>\n

    D\u00f6rt hektarl\u0131k bir tepe \u00fczerine in\u015fa edilen Buhara Kale\u2019nin \u00f6n\u00fcndeki b\u00fcy\u00fck meydan, ge\u00e7mi\u015fte toplant\u0131lar\u0131n, bulu\u015fmalar\u0131n, resm\u00ee a\u00e7\u0131klamalar\u0131n, idamlar\u0131n yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 yer olarak kullan\u0131l\u0131yordu. \u00d6zbekistan kad\u0131nlar\u0131 ge\u00e7mi\u015fte pe\u00e7e tak\u0131yorlard\u0131, 1927 y\u0131l\u0131nda bu meydanda toplanan kad\u0131nlar b\u00fcy\u00fck bir ate\u015f yak\u0131p pe\u00e7elerini ate\u015fe atarak bir m\u00fccadele ba\u015flatt\u0131lar ve kad\u0131nlar o zamandan beri pe\u00e7e takm\u0131yorlar. 1924 y\u0131l\u0131nda Sovyetlerin K\u0131z\u0131l Ordu\u2019su taraf\u0131ndan bombalanan kale, daha sonra yap\u0131lan restorasyonlar ile yenilenmi\u015ftir.<\/p>\n

    **<\/p>\n

    \u00d6zbekistan topraklar\u0131, \u0130slamiyet\u2019in Orta Asya\u2019da ilk olarak yay\u0131lmaya ba\u015flad\u0131\u011f\u0131, Araplarla b\u00fcy\u00fck sava\u015flar\u0131n ya\u015fand\u0131\u011f\u0131 yerlerdir. Bu nedenle bu co\u011frafyada \u0130slam yap\u0131lanmas\u0131 gere\u011fi bolca cami, medrese, t\u00fcrbe gibi \u0130slam dinine uygun yap\u0131lar bulunur. Biz de bu anlamdaki \u0130slami tarihi eserleri ziyaret etmeye devam ediyoruz.<\/p>\n

    Buhara\u2019da \u00f6nemli yerlerden Poli Kalon K\u00fclliyesi\u2019ne gidiyoruz.<\/p>\n

    Poli Kalon K\u00fclliyesi;<\/em><\/strong> Buhara\u2019n\u0131n tarihi kesiminde yer alan k\u00fclliye, 713’te Ark Kalesi\u2019nin yak\u0131n\u0131ndaki alana birka\u00e7 cami ve medreseden olu\u015fan kompleks olarak in\u015fa edildi. Buhara ku\u015fatmas\u0131 s\u0131ras\u0131nda Cengiz Han taraf\u0131ndan yak\u0131lan bu k\u00fclliyelerden biri, 1121 y\u0131l\u0131nda Karahanl\u0131 h\u00fck\u00fcmdar\u0131 Arslan Han taraf\u0131ndan yeniden yapt\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. “Ulu’nun Aya\u011f\u0131\u201d anlam\u0131nda olan Poli Kalon k\u00fclliyesi, Kalon Minaresi ve \u00e7evresi ile ge\u00e7mi\u015fte b\u00f6lgenin \u0130slami\u00a0merkez durumunda oldu\u011fu yerdi.<\/p>\n

    Kalon Minare;<\/em><\/strong> halk aras\u0131nda Min\u00e2ra-i Kal\u00e2n “B\u00fcy\u00fck Minare” olarak da bilinen minare, ge\u00e7mi\u015fte y\u00fczy\u0131llar boyunca, su\u00e7lular yukardan at\u0131larak \u00f6ld\u00fcr\u00fcld\u00fc\u011f\u00fc i\u00e7in \u201c\u00f6l\u00fcm kulesi\u201d olarak da bilinir. Kentin tarihi merkezine h\u00e2kim bir konumda yer alan, dikey s\u00fctun \u015feklinde olan minare, k\u00fclliyenin en \u00fcnl\u00fc k\u0131sm\u0131d\u0131r. Geleneksel minare boyutlar\u0131n\u0131n d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda, daha \u00e7ok kule \u015feklinde olup, geleneksel ve dekoratif g\u00f6rselli\u011fe sahiptir.<\/p>\n

    1127 y\u0131l\u0131nda Karamanl\u0131 Arslan Han\u00a0taraf\u0131ndan yapt\u0131r\u0131lan, 47 metre y\u00fcksekli\u011finde, 10 metre temel derinli\u011fi olan, 14 farkl\u0131 deseni olan tu\u011flalar\u0131n kullan\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 Minareyi Kalon, meydanda en fazla dikkat \u00e7eken yap\u0131d\u0131r. K\u0131z\u0131l Ordu, 1920\u2019lerde buray\u0131 da y\u0131kmaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015fm\u0131\u015f ama y\u0131kamam\u0131\u015f.\u00a0Rivayet odur ki, Cengiz Han buralar\u0131 istila edince bu minareyi g\u00f6r\u00fcr ve hayranl\u0131kla yak\u0131ndan incelemek ister. Minarenin en \u00fcst noktas\u0131na bakmak i\u00e7in kafas\u0131n\u0131 iyice geri at\u0131nca ba\u015f\u0131ndaki mi\u011ffer yere d\u00fc\u015fer ve e\u011filerek al\u0131r. Hi\u00e7bir h\u00fck\u00fcmdar veya han, her ne sebepten olursa olsun halk\u0131n \u00f6n\u00fcnde e\u011filerek yerden bir \u015fey almaz. \u0130stemeden yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 bu davran\u0131\u015f i\u00e7in, minareye hayranl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 belli etmek ve e\u011fildi\u011finin ifadesi olarak minarenin onar\u0131larak koruma alt\u0131na al\u0131nmas\u0131n\u0131 emreder.<\/p>\n

    Kalon Camii;<\/em><\/strong> 1514\u2019te Buhara H\u00fck\u00fcmdar\u0131 Arslan Han taraf\u0131ndan yapt\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Semerkant’taki Bibi Han\u0131m Cami ile ayn\u0131 b\u00fcy\u00fckl\u00fcktedir. Her ikisi de cami olmas\u0131na ra\u011fmen, mimari tarzlar\u0131 \u00e7ok farkl\u0131d\u0131rlar. B\u00fcy\u00fck mavi \u00e7inili bir kubbesi olan caminin i\u00e7 avlusunu \u00e7evreleyen galerilerin \u00e7at\u0131s\u0131nda 208 s\u00fctun \u00fczerine oturan 288 kubbe vard\u0131r. Avluya bakan, ana dua salonuna giri\u015f k\u0131sm\u0131nda uzun bir kiremitli eyvan portal\u0131 yer al\u0131r.<\/p>\n

    Buras\u0131 koca bir avlusu olan, kocaman bir cami, y\u0131lda sadece iki kez bayram namazlar\u0131 k\u0131l\u0131n\u0131yor, Hani, \u201citibardan tasarruf olmaz” diyoruz ya, i\u015fte o zamanda varm\u0131\u015f!<\/p>\n

    Mir-i Arab Medresesi;<\/em><\/strong> 1535-1536 y\u0131llar\u0131nda yap\u0131lan medrese, Yemen’deki \u015eeyh Abdullah Yamani’ye atfedilir. \u015eeyh Abdullah Yamani, Mir-i-Arab olarak bilinen Ubeydullah Han ve o\u011flu Abdul-Aziz-Han’\u0131n manevi ak\u0131l hocas\u0131 olarak kabul edilirdi. A\u015f\u0131r\u0131 dindar olan Ubeydullah Han, \u0130ran’a kar\u015f\u0131 yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 sava\u015fta, \u00e7ok say\u0131da esir ve ganimetlerden elde etti\u011fi parayla Mir-i-Arab Medresesi’ni yapt\u0131rm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. 1630’lara gelindi\u011finde egemenler art\u0131k kendileri ve akrabalar\u0131 i\u00e7in g\u00f6rkemli t\u00fcrbeler in\u015fa etmeyi b\u0131rakt\u0131lar. \u015eeybani Hanedan\u0131’n\u0131n hanlar\u0131, Kur\u2019an geleneklerini uygulamaktayd\u0131. \u015eeriat kurallar\u0131n\u0131n ge\u00e7erli oldu\u011fu d\u00f6nemde, Ubeydullah Han gibi \u00fcnl\u00fc bir han bile medresesindeki ak\u0131l hocas\u0131n\u0131n yan\u0131na defnedildi. Mir-i-Arab Medresesi’nin ortas\u0131nda Ubeydullah Han’\u0131n ah\u015fap mezar\u0131, yan\u0131nda ise ak\u0131l hocas\u0131 Mir-i-Arab’\u0131n mezar\u0131 bulunmaktad\u0131r.<\/p>\n

    Buralarda bulunan cami, medrese, t\u00fcrbe, \u00e7o\u011funu tamamlad\u0131k, kendimi ar\u0131nm\u0131\u015f, hafiflemi\u015f hissediyorum.<\/p>\n

    Nasreddin Hoca heykeli burada da kar\u015f\u0131m\u0131za \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131 ve \u00d6zbekler hocay\u0131 kendilerine mal etmi\u015fler. Heykeli var, hem de e\u015fe\u011fe ters binmi\u015f vaziyette. Peki, e\u015fe\u011fe neden ters bitmi\u015f diye soruldu\u011funda, “Buradan g\u00f6t\u00fcr\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f ama akl\u0131, g\u00f6z\u00fc hep burada.” diye a\u00e7\u0131klama yap\u0131l\u0131yor, tam Nasreddin Hoca cevab\u0131! Buralarda Nasrettin Hoca\u2019n\u0131n kimli\u011fi, akl\u0131 ile zenginden al\u0131p fakire da\u011f\u0131tan \u015feklinde.<\/p>\n

    Ak\u015fam gece g\u00f6steri sonras\u0131 gene bir \u00d6zbek evine yeme\u011fe misafir oluyoruz, \u00d6zbek pilav\u0131na devam.<\/p>\n

    **<\/p>\n

    Yolumuz uzun, Hiva\u2019ya<\/strong> gidiyoruz, ayr\u0131ca yakla\u015f\u0131k ilk y\u00fcz km. yol da bozuk.\u00a0Hiva, \u00fclkenin bat\u0131s\u0131nda, Harazm eyaletinde, T\u00fcrkmenistan s\u0131n\u0131r\u0131na yak\u0131n bir yer. \u00d6zbekistan\u2019\u0131n b\u00fcy\u00fck bir k\u0131sm\u0131 \u00e7\u00f6l, biz de \u00e7\u00f6l\u00fcn ortas\u0131ndan gidiyoruz, yolumuzun \u00fczerinde Harazm \u015fehrine geldik. Buras\u0131 ge\u00e7mi\u015fte Zerd\u00fc\u015ftl\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn ilk ortaya \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131 yer. Sonunda \u00e7\u00f6l\u00fcn ortas\u0131nda, minareler \u015fehri diye bilinen 2500 y\u0131ll\u0131k Hiva\u2019ya geldik, tarihi doku i\u00e7inde kendimi y\u00fczy\u0131llar \u00f6ncesine ait film platosunda gibi hissediyorum.<\/p>\n

    \u015eehir, \u0130\u00e7 Kale ve D\u0131\u015f Kale olarak ayr\u0131lm\u0131\u015f durumdad\u0131r. Sadece 3000 ki\u015finin ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131 surlarla \u00e7evrili \u0130\u00e7 Kale, eski Hiva yerle\u015fim b\u00f6lgesi olup her taraf\u0131 binlerce y\u0131l \u00f6ncesinden gelen tarh\u0131 dokular\u0131n oldu\u011fu yer. \u0130\u00e7 Kale\u2019de evlerin plan \u015fekli, kap\u0131dan girince do\u011frudan oturma mek\u00e2n\u0131 olacak \u015fekilde, bu, \u00e7\u00f6l hayat\u0131ndaki \u00e7ad\u0131r ya\u015fam\u0131ndan gelen al\u0131\u015fkanl\u0131k.<\/p>\n

    Surlar\u0131n \u00fczerine \u00e7\u0131k\u0131p Hiva\u2019y\u0131 y\u00fcksekten seyrediyoruz, y\u00fczy\u0131llar \u00f6ncesinde bir zaman yolculu\u011funa \u00e7\u0131km\u0131\u015f gibiyiz. G\u00fcne\u015fi buradan bat\u0131r\u0131yoruz, turuncunun, sar\u0131n\u0131n b\u00fct\u00fcn tonlar\u0131 ile yaratt\u0131\u011f\u0131 muhte\u015fem g\u00fczelli\u011fi seyrediyoruz.<\/p>\n

    \u0130lk olarak Hiva\u2019n\u0131n sembol yap\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131n ba\u015f\u0131nda gelen Muhammed Emin Han Medrese ve minaresi ile ba\u015fl\u0131yoruz gezimize.<\/p>\n

    Muhammed Emin Han Medresesi;<\/strong> Hiva\u2019n\u0131n sembol yap\u0131lar\u0131ndan biri olan yap\u0131, 1851 y\u0131l\u0131nda d\u00f6nemin Hiva Emiri Muhammed Emin Han taraf\u0131ndan yapt\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f, zemin katta iki b\u00fcy\u00fck odas\u0131 ve birinci kattaki odalar\u0131n d\u0131\u015far\u0131 bakan pencereleri ile Hiva ve Orta Asya\u2019da ilk yap\u0131lan en b\u00fcy\u00fck ve en konforlu iki katl\u0131 medresedir. Hiva’n\u0131n simgesi olan 26 metre y\u00fcksekli\u011finde olan kule, buran\u0131n en g\u00fczel yap\u0131lardan biridir. Bug\u00fcn otel olarak kullan\u0131lan medrese, ge\u00e7mi\u015fin b\u00fct\u00fcn \u00e7izgilerini, tarihini yans\u0131t\u0131yor. Burada hik\u00e2yeler \u00e7ok. 1851 y\u0131l\u0131nda Hiva Kral\u0131 Muhammed \u00c2min Han taraf\u0131ndan yapt\u0131r\u0131lan, ger\u00e7ekten muhte\u015fem kule, asl\u0131nda 70 metre olarak planlanm\u0131\u015f ancak 26 metrede kalm\u0131\u015f.\u00a0Kuleyi yapan ustaya ba\u015fka bir yerden daha y\u00fcksek bir kule yapmas\u0131 i\u00e7in teklif gelir, bunu duyan kral\u00a0yapt\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131 kuleden daha y\u00fcksek bir kule yap\u0131lmas\u0131ndan rahats\u0131z olaca\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in, kule tamamlan\u0131nca ustay\u0131 \u00f6ld\u00fcrtmeyi planlar.\u00a0Durumu fark eden usta da kuleyi tamamlamadan ka\u00e7ar, bu nedenle olmas\u0131 gerekenden 44 metre k\u0131sad\u0131r. Bir ba\u015fka hik\u00e2ye de Emir\u2019in 1855 y\u0131l\u0131nda \u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcn\u00fcn ard\u0131ndan 26 metre y\u00fcksekli\u011fe ula\u015fan minarenin in\u015fas\u0131 durdurulmu\u015f.<\/p>\n

    Bu nedenle buras\u0131n\u0131n ad\u0131, \u201ck\u0131sa minare\u201d veya \u201ceksik minare” anlam\u0131nda \u201cKalta Minor\u201d olarak da s\u00f6ylenir.\u00a0Minare \u00fczerindeki mavi ve ye\u015fil \u00e7iniler, bu bozk\u0131r toprak \u00fczerinde sa\u011flad\u0131\u011f\u0131 kontrast ile g\u00f6z kama\u015ft\u0131rmaya, ge\u00e7en y\u00fczy\u0131llardan beri ilgi \u00e7ekmeye devam etmektedir.<\/p>\n

    Medresenin giri\u015finde \u201cBu medrese, sonsuza dek bu topraklarda do\u011facak olan insanlar\u0131 mutlu edecektir\u201d yazmaktad\u0131r.<\/p>\n

    Muhammed Rahim Han Medresesi,<\/strong> \u0130\u00e7 Kale\u2019nin i\u00e7inde yer alan Kukhna Ark\u2019\u0131n hemen yan\u0131nda olan medrese, ad\u0131n\u0131 da veren Muhammed Rahim Han taraf\u0131ndan 1871-1876 y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131nda in\u015fa ettirilmi\u015f olan iki katl\u0131 yap\u0131da 76 oda bulunuyor. G\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde, Hiva Hanl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131n tarihinin sergilendi\u011fi bir m\u00fcze olarak kullan\u0131lan medresenin en \u00f6nemli mimari \u00f6zelli\u011fi, ana kap\u0131s\u0131n\u0131n bir avlu i\u00e7erisinde olmas\u0131d\u0131r. Bunun nedeni olarak da hemen kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131nda yer alan Kukhna Ark\u2019a kar\u015f\u0131 bir mahremiyet yaratmak g\u00f6sterilmektedir.<\/p>\n

    Muhammed Rahim Han Medresesi\u2019nin hemen kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131nda 17 yy.da in\u015fa edilmi\u015f olan Hiva Hanlar\u0131n\u0131n ikametgah\u0131 ve \u015fehri y\u00f6nettikleri yap\u0131 kompleksi bulunuyor. Bu avlular\u0131n birisinin i\u00e7erisinde yer alan \u00e7inili cami ise olduk\u00e7a etkileyici.<\/p>\n

    Cuma Camii; <\/strong>Hiva\u2019n\u0131n eski \u015fehir b\u00f6lgesi olan \u0130\u00e7 Kale\u2019nin tam ortas\u0131nda, mimari olarak farkl\u0131 bir yap\u0131ya sahip olan cami, 18. yy.\u0131n sonlar\u0131nda in\u015fa edilmi\u015f. \u0130badet alan\u0131 yakla\u015f\u0131k 45\u00d755 metre boyutlar\u0131nda, 2500m2<\/sup> bir alan olup, \u00fczerindeki \u00e7at\u0131 210 tane a\u011fa\u00e7 kolon \u00fczerine oturtulmu\u015f. Cami kendisinden daha eski olan bir ibadethanenin yerine in\u015fa edilmi\u015f oldu\u011fu i\u00e7in, bu yap\u0131da eskiye ait bir\u00e7ok eski yap\u0131 elemanlar\u0131 da kullan\u0131lm\u0131\u015f ve bu ah\u015fap kolonlardan baz\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131n da 10 yy.dan kald\u0131\u011f\u0131 tespit edilmi\u015f. \u0130badet alan\u0131n\u0131n hemen yan\u0131ndan \u00e7\u0131k\u0131labilen 33 metre y\u00fcksekli\u011findeki minareden de \u015fehrin g\u00fczel manzaras\u0131n\u0131 izleme f\u0131rsat\u0131 bulabilirsiniz.<\/p>\n

    \u0130\u00e7 Kale i\u00e7erisindeki Bat\u0131 Kap\u0131 ile Do\u011fu Kap\u0131 aras\u0131ndaki ana yolda Cuma Cami\u2019ye gelmeden hemen \u00f6nce ye\u015fil kubbeli Pehlivan Mahmut T\u00fcrbesi bulunuyor.<\/p>\n

    Pehlivan Mahmut T\u00fcrbesi;<\/strong> \u0130ranl\u0131 bir \u015fair ve g\u00fcre\u015f\u00e7i olan Pehlivan Mahmut\u2019u, d\u00f6nemin han\u0131 Muhammed Rahim Han, \u015fehrin koruyucusu olarak g\u00f6revlendirmi\u015f ve kendi mezar\u0131n\u0131n da bu t\u00fcrbe i\u00e7erisinde yap\u0131lmas\u0131n\u0131 istemi\u015f. Binaya girdi\u011finizde ana hol\u00fcn hemen kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131nda Muhammed Rahim Han\u2019\u0131n mozolesi ve onun yan\u0131mda Pehlivan Mahmut\u2019un mozolesi bulunmaktad\u0131r.<\/p>\n

    \u0130smail Hoca Medresesi ve Minaresi; <\/strong>1864-1910 y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131nda Hiva Hanl\u0131\u011f\u0131 h\u00fck\u00fcmdar\u0131 olan II. Muhammed Rahmi Bahadur taraf\u0131ndan 1908 ila 1910 y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131nda yapt\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f, 45 metre y\u00fcksekli\u011finde mimarisi olan bu medreseye de b\u00fcy\u00fck kuzeni \u0130slam Hoca\u2019n\u0131n ad\u0131n\u0131 vermi\u015f. \u0130smail Hoca, Hiva\u2019ya hastane, telgraf ofisi ve okullar yapt\u0131rm\u0131\u015f ancak 1913 y\u0131l\u0131nda b\u0131\u00e7aklanarak \u00f6ld\u00fcr\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f.<\/p>\n

    Abdullah Han Medresesi; <\/strong>medrese, g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde T\u00fcrkmenistan s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131 i\u00e7erisinde kalan b\u00f6lgede Kutlug Murat Han\u2019\u0131n 17 ya\u015f\u0131ndaki o\u011flu Abdullah Han\u2019\u0131n \u00f6ld\u00fcr\u00fclmesinden sonra, Kutlu\u011f Murat Han\u2019\u0131n e\u015fi ve Abdullah Han\u2019\u0131n annesi taraf\u0131ndan o\u011flunun ad\u0131n\u0131n ya\u015fat\u0131lmas\u0131 amac\u0131 ile 1855 y\u0131l\u0131nda yapt\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. G\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde tabiat m\u00fczesi olarak kullan\u0131lmaktad\u0131r. Kutlug Murat Han, Hiva Hanl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131n 3. Han\u0131 Alla Kuli Han\u2019\u0131n amcas\u0131yd\u0131. Bir hik\u00e2yeye g\u00f6re Hiva\u2019da sur d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda \u00f6len birinin sur i\u00e7erisine g\u00f6m\u00fclmemesi gerekti\u011fi gibi bir inan\u0131\u015f vard\u0131. Alla Kuli Han, amcas\u0131n\u0131n surlar\u0131n d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda \u00f6lmesi sonras\u0131nda amcas\u0131n\u0131 surlar i\u00e7ine g\u00f6mebilmek i\u00e7in surlar\u0131n bir k\u0131sm\u0131n\u0131 y\u0131km\u0131\u015f ve 1804 ile 1812 y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131nda bu medreseyi surlar\u0131n i\u00e7inde kalacak \u015fekilde in\u015fa ettirmi\u015f.<\/p>\n

    G\u00f6r\u00fcld\u00fc\u011f\u00fc gibi buralar\u0131n ne medresesi ne de t\u00fcrbesi bitmez. Hepsinin farkl\u0131 hikayesi var, hepsi de buralar\u0131n tarihine imza atm\u0131\u015f olanlar.<\/p>\n

    Kutlug Murad Han Medresesinden sonra 17. yy.da in\u015fa edilmi\u015f olan, etraf\u0131 sundurmal\u0131, kubbeli bir mimari yap\u0131s\u0131 olan Ak Cami, di\u011fer ismi ile Beyaz Camii ve Ta\u015f Avlu Camii\u2019ne do\u011fru devam ediyoruz.<\/p>\n

    Ta\u015f Avlu Saray\u0131;<\/strong> 19. yy\u2019da in\u015fa edilmi\u015f, \u0130\u00e7 Kale\u2019nin do\u011fu k\u0131sm\u0131nda yer alan, y\u00fcksek surlar ile \u00e7evrili Ta\u015f Avlu Saray, labirent gibi biraz kar\u0131\u015f\u0131k koridorlardan ge\u00e7ilen ilgin\u00e7 bir yap\u0131. 1830 y\u0131l\u0131nda, d\u00f6nemin Han\u2019\u0131 Alla Kulik Han taraf\u0131ndan yap\u0131m\u0131na ba\u015flanan saray, hemen yan\u0131nda ayn\u0131 ismi ta\u015f\u0131yan kervansaray ile birlikte 8 y\u0131lda tamamlanm\u0131\u015f. Kervansaray, gelen kervanlardan al\u0131nan mallar ve kervanc\u0131lara Hiva\u2019ya \u00f6zg\u00fc mallar\u0131n sat\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u00f6nemli pazar durumundayd\u0131. Bug\u00fcn hediyelik e\u015fyalar\u0131n sat\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u00e7ar\u015f\u0131 olarak kullan\u0131l\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

    Alla Kuli Han Medresesi<\/strong>, Alla Kuli Han taraf\u0131ndan 1912 y\u0131l\u0131nda in\u015fa ettirilmi\u015f, matematik, tarih ve Rus\u00e7a lisan\u0131 konusunda \u00f6nemli e\u011fitim kurumu olarak hizmet vermi\u015f. Bina \u015fu an Hiva\u2019ya foto\u011fraf\u00e7\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131 ilk getiren Devenov\u2019un foto\u011fraflar\u0131n\u0131n ve ekipmanlar\u0131n\u0131n sergilendi\u011fi bir m\u00fcze olarak kullan\u0131l\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

    \u0130\u00e7 Kale i\u00e7inde fazla say\u0131da medrese, t\u00fcrbe ve camilerin \u00e7o\u011fu g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde m\u00fcze olarak ziyarete a\u00e7\u0131k.<\/p>\n

    Hiva, ge\u00e7mi\u015fin en \u00f6nemli k\u00f6le ticaretinin yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 yerdir. \u00c7evre b\u00f6lgelerden toplanan esirler burada sat\u0131l\u0131rd\u0131, en \u00e7ok para eden k\u00f6leler ise daha becerikli olduklar\u0131 i\u00e7in Rus k\u00f6lelerdi.<\/p>\n

    Ak\u015fam oldu, hava serinlemeye ba\u015flad\u0131, ortal\u0131kta kimse yok, herkes erkenden evine \u00e7ekildi, gece de ayd\u0131nlat\u0131lm\u0131\u015f olarak bir ba\u015fka\u00a0g\u00fczel. \u0130\u00e7 Kale genelde yerle\u015fim olmayan, turistik bir b\u00f6lge.<\/p>\n

    Asl\u0131nda \u00e7\u00f6l\u00fcn ortas\u0131nday\u0131z, bu nedenle geceleri so\u011fuk, g\u00fcnd\u00fcz de s\u0131cak. B\u00f6yle olunca sabah da so\u011fu\u011fun keskin oldu\u011fu zaman. Sabah kat kat giyiniyoruz, ama \u00f6\u011fleye do\u011fru yava\u015f yava\u015f soyunma seans\u0131 ba\u015fl\u0131yor, b\u00f6yle bir durum. \u00c7\u00f6l topra\u011f\u0131 ve yeralt\u0131 sular\u0131 ciddi derece tuzlu, bu nedenle su sorunu var b\u00f6lgede.<\/p>\n

    \u00c7evreyi dola\u015f\u0131yoruz, \u0130\u00e7 Kale fazla turistik bir yer, surlar\u0131n d\u0131\u015f\u0131na \u00e7\u0131k\u0131nca manzara biraz farkl\u0131.\u00a0Kar\u0131\u015f\u0131k ve bozuk yollar yani biraz m\u00fctevazi ya\u015fam durumlar\u0131 hemen g\u00f6ze \u00e7arp\u0131yor.\u00a0Burada T\u00fcrklere \u00f6zel bir sempati var, bir\u00e7ok ki\u015fi T\u00fcrk\u00e7e konu\u015fabiliyor. Yani burada T\u00fcrk\u00e7e bilirseniz i\u015finizi halledebilirsiniz.<\/p>\n

    **<\/p>\n

    Orta Asya Cumhuriyetleri, yap\u0131lanmas\u0131 ve ge\u00e7mi\u015fleri ile farkl\u0131 \u00f6zellikler g\u00f6sterir.<\/p>\n

    1920 y\u0131llar\u0131na kadar Sovyetler Birli\u011fi s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131 i\u00e7indeki farkl\u0131 etnik guruplar, 1924 y\u0131l\u0131ndan itibaren Stalin taraf\u0131ndan belirlenen s\u0131n\u0131rlar i\u00e7inde k\u0131sm\u0131 \u00f6zerk cumhuriyet olarak devletle\u015fmeye ba\u015flad\u0131lar. Bu \u00fclkelerin s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131n\u0131n belirlenmesi anlam\u0131ndayd\u0131. Ancak s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131n belirlenmesi baz\u0131 ince hesaplar\u0131 i\u00e7eriyordu. Stalin, d\u00f6neminde Sovyetler i\u00e7indeki etnik gruplar\u0131n s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7izerken, o toplum i\u00e7in kutsal veya tarihsel kimlik anlam\u0131nda olan b\u00f6lgeleri di\u011fer kom\u015fu \u00fclke s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131 i\u00e7inde b\u0131rakm\u0131\u015ft\u0131. \u00d6nceleri \u00f6zerk cumhuriyet olma heyecan\u0131 ile bu incelik \u00e7ok fark edilmedi. Ancak sonralar\u0131 bu durum kom\u015fu \u00fclkeler aras\u0131nda ciddi s\u0131n\u0131r gerginlikleri ya\u015fanmas\u0131na yol a\u00e7t\u0131. \u00d6rne\u011fin baz\u0131 kom\u015fu \u00fclkelerin fazlaca olan su kaynaklar\u0131na kar\u015f\u0131n di\u011fer \u00fclkede ciddi su sorunu olabiliyor, kutsal ve dini de\u011ferleri olan mekanlar di\u011fer \u00fclke topraklar\u0131nda b\u0131rak\u0131lm\u0131\u015f, yer alt\u0131 ve maden kaynaklar\u0131 adaletli de\u011fildi. Bu durum k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck manip\u00fclasyonlarla \u00fclkeleri \u00e7at\u0131\u015fma noktas\u0131na getirebilecekti. Bunun sonucunda kom\u015fu olan \u00fclkeler her ne kadar benzer veya ayn\u0131 soydan gelseler de baz\u0131 konularda anla\u015fabilirlerdi ama hi\u00e7bir zaman tek v\u00fccut olarak kal\u0131c\u0131 hareket edemeyeceklerdi. Asl\u0131nda benzer davran\u0131\u015f Sovyetlerin i\u00e7inde sanayi ve \u00fcretim modelleri i\u00e7in de uygulanm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. \u00d6rne\u011fin u\u00e7ak motoru, ba\u015fka bir \u00f6zerk cumhuriyette yap\u0131l\u0131rken g\u00f6vde ve di\u011fer aksamlar farkl\u0131 cumhuriyetlerde yap\u0131l\u0131yordu. Dolay\u0131s\u0131yla hi\u00e7biri tek ba\u015f\u0131na bir b\u00fct\u00fcn\u00fc tamamlayam\u0131yordu.<\/p>\n

    \u00d6zbekistan\u2019\u0131n, b\u00f6lgenin en verimli yerleri olan Fergana Vadisi\u2019nde, Fergana vilayetine ba\u011fl\u0131 topraklar\u0131 bulunmaktad\u0131r ve bu yerlerin tamam\u0131 Suga il\u00e7esi diye bilinir. Ancak Suga il\u00e7esi t\u00fcm\u00fcyle K\u0131rg\u0131zistan s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131 i\u00e7inde b\u0131rak\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Yani \u00d6zbekistan vatanda\u015f\u0131n\u0131n, kendi topra\u011f\u0131 olan Suga\u2019ya gitmek i\u00e7in K\u0131rg\u0131zistan topraklar\u0131ndan ge\u00e7mesi gerekir.<\/p>\n

    **<\/p>\n

    Cami, medrese, t\u00fcrbeler, here yerde dualar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 ettik, tamamd\u0131r. Sabah erken \u00d6zbekistan\u2019\u0131n ba\u015fkenti Ta\u015fkent’e gidiyoruz.<\/p>\n

    Ta\u015fkent, \u00d6zbekistan\u2019\u0131n kuzey do\u011fusunda, n\u00fcfusu 3 milyondan fazla, ticaretin, ekonominin, politikan\u0131n, y\u00f6netimin merkezi durumunda. Geni\u015f caddeler, marka ma\u011fazalar, \u00e7ok katl\u0131 binalar son derece modern \u015fehir g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcnde, tabii ki merkezde olan durum b\u00f6yle. Caddelerin biraz arkalar\u0131nda \u00e7ok farkl\u0131 bir ya\u015fam \u015fekli var. \u0130lk g\u00f6ze \u00e7arpan, her tarafta b\u00fcy\u00fck in\u015faat faaliyetleri var. \u00d6\u011frendik ki b\u00fcy\u00fck \u00e7o\u011funluk T\u00fcrk firmalar\u0131, akl\u0131 bizden alm\u0131\u015f gibiler, onlar da konut in\u015faat\u0131 yaparak ekonomik kalk\u0131nma modeli icat etme pe\u015findeler belli ki!<\/p>\n

    \u0130slam Kerimov d\u00f6neminde, ikametg\u00e2h olarak kay\u0131tl\u0131 oldu\u011funuz yerin d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda herhangi bir yere gitmek i\u00e7in izin alman\u0131z gerekirdi. Yani kalaca\u011f\u0131n\u0131z ve gidece\u011finiz yer belli olmal\u0131, uygun ise izin veriliyordu. 1990\u2019dan sonraki y\u0131llarda bu izinler kald\u0131r\u0131ld\u0131 ve b\u00fcy\u00fck \u015fehirlere h\u00fccum ba\u015flad\u0131.\u00a0Bu s\u00fcre\u00e7 beraberinde b\u00fcy\u00fck \u00e7arp\u0131k yap\u0131la\u015fmaya yol a\u00e7m\u0131\u015f. Beklemiyordum bu kadar \u00e7ok T\u00fcrk ma\u011fazalar\u0131 oldu\u011funu, T\u00fcrk restoranlar\u0131, kebap\u00e7\u0131lar, T\u00fcrk marka giyim, beyaz e\u015fya hepsi var, aferin, valla vatanda\u015f yurt d\u0131\u015f\u0131na a\u00e7\u0131l\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

    1966 y\u0131l\u0131nda meydana gelen 8,1 \u015fiddetindeki deprem ile Ta\u015fkent b\u00fcy\u00fck hasar alm\u0131\u015f. O d\u00f6nem y\u00f6netimi, her kadar fazla bir \u015fey olmad\u0131 \u015feklinde a\u00e7\u0131klamalar yapt\u0131ysa da on binlerce \u00f6l\u00fc ve yaral\u0131, neredeyse b\u00fct\u00fcn \u015fehir yerle bir olmu\u015f. Bu tarihten itibaren Ta\u015fkent, yeniden yap\u0131lanma s\u00fcrecine girmi\u015f. Tabii ki b\u00f6yle durumlar s\u0131n\u0131f fark\u0131 olu\u015fmas\u0131, bir anda b\u00fcy\u00fck zenginler ortaya \u00e7\u0131kmas\u0131 i\u00e7in f\u0131rsatlar yarat\u0131r, \u00f6yle de olmu\u015f. F\u0131rsat yaratanlar, y\u00f6netime yak\u0131n olan insanlarda h\u0131zl\u0131 zenginle\u015fme, b\u00fcy\u00fck s\u0131n\u0131f farkl\u0131l\u0131klar\u0131 olu\u015fmu\u015f. 100 metre y\u00fcksekli\u011finde, Orta Asya’n\u0131n en y\u00fcksek binas\u0131 yap\u0131l\u0131yor, a\u00e7\u0131l\u0131nca haberimiz olur, duyar\u0131z bir \u015fekilde.<\/p>\n

    \u00d6\u011flen yeme\u011fi i\u00e7in buran\u0131n en me\u015fhur Ta\u015fkent pilav\u0131n\u0131 yemeye gidiyoruz. Mutfak k\u0131sm\u0131na girdik, zaten a\u00e7\u0131k,\u00a0bu kadar me\u015fhur pilav nas\u0131l, nerde pi\u015fiyor g\u00f6relim dedik, 5 tane 800 kiloluk kazanlarda, yetmemi\u015f 1.5 tonluk kazan daha ilave yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f,\u00a0rakamlar yanl\u0131\u015f de\u011fil, yani her g\u00fcn 5.5 ton pilav ve yan\u0131nda et, salata, tur\u015fu, tatl\u0131 falan. B\u00fcy\u00fck bir mek\u00e2n ama yer ay\u0131rmazsan\u0131z zorlanabilirsiniz yer bulmakta, b\u00f6yle bir durum. Keramet neresinde bilmem ama yedi\u011fim en g\u00fczel etli pilav. Patlama noktas\u0131nday\u0131m ama koca tabak bitti. Muhte\u015fem lezzet, pirin\u00e7 pilav\u0131n\u0131n bu kadar lezzetli pi\u015firilebilece\u011fini bilmezdim.<\/p>\n

    Amerikan politikas\u0131 veya emperyalizmi i\u00e7in kullan\u0131lan ifade vard\u0131r “Sam Amca” diye, hafiften a\u015fa\u011f\u0131lamay\u0131 ve kar\u015f\u0131 duru\u015fu tarif eder. Benzer anlam ve tav\u0131r i\u00e7in “Jo Amca” ifadesi kullan\u0131l\u0131yor buralarda, kastedilen ge\u00e7mi\u015fin sert diktat\u00f6r\u00fc Stalin.<\/p>\n

    **<\/p>\n

    Bir \u015fehir veya co\u011frafya hakk\u0131nda do\u011fru bilgiler edinmek istiyorsan\u0131z, oran\u0131n k\u00fclt\u00fcr ve geleneklerinin birikti\u011fi eski yerle\u015fim yerini g\u00f6rmek gerekir. Biz de Ta\u015fkent\u2019te \u201ceski \u015fehre\u201d gidiyoruz.<\/p>\n

    Hz. \u0130mam<\/strong> isimli b\u00f6lgeye gidiyoruz, ad\u0131n\u0131 burada bulunan Hz. \u0130mam K\u00fclliyesi\u2019nden alm\u0131\u015f. B\u00fcy\u00fck bir cami, tabii ki yan\u0131nda t\u00fcrbeler, hediyelik e\u015fya satan bir s\u00fcr\u00fc d\u00fckk\u00e2nlar. Her taraf\u0131n\u0131 geziyoruz, temiz, bak\u0131ml\u0131 bir yer. B\u00fcy\u00fck bir odada, camekan i\u00e7inde, k\u00fbfi yaz\u0131 ile yaz\u0131lm\u0131\u015f b\u00fcy\u00fck boyutta bir Kur\u2019an sergileniyor, Kur’an’\u0131n ilk yaz\u0131lan be\u015f kopyas\u0131ndan biri oldu\u011fu s\u00f6ylendi.<\/p>\n

    Yerel olarak Barak Han Medresesi olarak da bilinen k\u00fclliye, \u00d6zbekistan Cumhurba\u015fkan\u0131 \u0130slam Karimov\u2019un iste\u011fi \u00fczerine in\u015fa edilen Ta\u015fkent\u2019in en b\u00fcy\u00fck mimari eserlerinden biridir. Muyi M\u00fcbarek Medresesi, Keffal \u015ea\u015fi T\u00fcrbesi, Tila \u015eeyh Camii ve Hast\u2019i \u0130mam Camii, hepsi ayn\u0131 k\u00fclliyede. \u0130slam d\u00fcnyas\u0131n\u0131n ilk bilginlerinden olan \u0130mam Ebu Bekir Kaffal E\u015f-\u015ea\u015fi \u015ferefine, Hz. \u0130mam Camii olarak adland\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Hz. \u0130mam Camii, ayn\u0131 anda 5000 ki\u015finin namaz k\u0131labilece\u011fi, 77 metre boyunda, 22 metre eninde orta alan\u0131 ve 35×25 metre boyutlar\u0131nda sa\u011f ve sol kanatlar\u0131 olan, sadece Cuma namazlar\u0131n\u0131n k\u0131l\u0131nd\u0131\u011f\u0131 b\u00fcy\u00fck bir cuma cami. D\u0131\u015f\u0131nda, sa\u011f ve sol tarafta 2 adet 57 metrelik minaresi olan caminin, sa\u011f taraftaki minaresi Harezmli ustalar, soldaki ise Semerkantl\u0131 ustalar taraf\u0131ndan yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Biri 28 g\u00fcnde, \u00f6b\u00fcr\u00fc 29 g\u00fcnde tamamlanm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. 2007 y\u0131l\u0131nda in\u015faat bitti\u011finden sonra bah\u00e7eye d\u00fcnyan\u0131n farkl\u0131 yerlerinden getirilen 3600 adet dekoratif a\u011fa\u00e7 dikilmi\u015ftir.<\/p>\n

    Eski \u015fehirde her birinin kendine g\u00f6re farkl\u0131 hikayesi olan, eski ve yeni bir\u00e7ok t\u00fcrbe, medrese, dini yap\u0131lar var. \u00d6zellikle kamuya ait yeni yap\u0131larda dini k\u00fclt\u00fcre uygun g\u00f6rseller de yap\u0131l\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

    Buran\u0131n tarihini anlamak kolay de\u011fil, bitmeyen sava\u015flar sonucu hakimiyetler hep de\u011fi\u015fmi\u015f, y\u00f6netim ve topraklar farkl\u0131 hanl\u0131klar taraf\u0131ndan sahiplenilmi\u015f. B\u00f6yle olunca, her d\u00f6nem farkl\u0131 h\u00fck\u00fcmdarlar taraf\u0131ndan topraklar i\u015fgal edilmi\u015f, gelen eskisini y\u0131km\u0131\u015f yeni yapmak istemi\u015f, baz\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131n \u00f6mr\u00fc yetmemi\u015f tamamlamaya.<\/p>\n

    Ge\u00e7mi\u015f d\u00f6nemlerde burada bulunan kilise nedeniyle “Kilise Meydan\u0131” olarak bilinen, bug\u00fcnk\u00fc ad\u0131 ile Ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131k Meydan\u0131, s\u00f6nmeyen ate\u015fin oldu\u011fu \u015fehitler abidesi ile\u00a0Ta\u015fkent\u2019in en b\u00fcy\u00fck meydan\u0131. 1990\u2019den itibaren, 33 metre y\u00fcksekli\u011findeki heykelin \u00f6n\u00fcnde milli g\u00fcnlerde anma t\u00f6renleri, toplant\u0131lar yap\u0131l\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

    **<\/p>\n

    Fergana Vadisi\u2019ne gidiyoruz;<\/p>\n

    Buras\u0131 Seyhun ve Ceyhun Nehirleri aras\u0131nda kalan, Mavera\u00fcnnehir diye bilinen bu co\u011frafyan\u0131n en verimli topraklar\u0131. Asl\u0131nda bir ba\u015fka konudur ama, 6. yy.da Arap istilac\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131n \u0130slamiyet\u2019i yaymak ad\u0131na buralara gelip talan etmelerinin sebeplerinden biridir bu bereketli topraklar. Fergana vilayetine ba\u011fl\u0131 Fergana \u015fehrindeyiz, geni\u015f, modern binalar, gayet g\u00fczel bir \u015fehir. Fergana Vadisi etraf\u0131 y\u00fcksek da\u011flarla \u00e7evrili 77.000 km2<\/sup> bir alan, en verimli 17 bin km2<\/sup>si \u00d6zbekistan s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131 i\u00e7inde.<\/p>\n

    \u00d6nceki y\u0131llarda geldi\u011fimde, yol \u00fcst\u00fcnde \u00f6n di\u015flerinin neredeyse tamam\u0131 alt\u0131n veya alt\u0131n benzeri maden olan, y\u00f6resel renkli k\u0131yafetler i\u00e7inde ekmek satan kad\u0131nlar olurdu.\u00a0Her birinin ekme\u011finin hem tad\u0131 hem de g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fc farkl\u0131yd\u0131. \u00c7ok keyifli bir durumdu ama buralara yeni yollar yap\u0131l\u0131nca g\u00fczerg\u00e2h de\u011fi\u015fmi\u015f, ekmek\u00e7i kad\u0131nlar da yok art\u0131k. Yerine ba\u015fka ekmek\u00e7iler gelmi\u015f. \u00d6zbekistan\u2019da ekmek bolca yendi\u011fi i\u00e7in yeni ekmek\u00e7iler t\u00fcremi\u015f. Yan yana biti\u015fik vaziyete b\u00fcy\u00fck tand\u0131r f\u0131r\u0131nlar\u0131 i\u00e7inde ate\u015f yan\u0131yor alev alev, \u00e7al\u0131\u015fanlar haz\u0131rlanm\u0131\u015f ekme\u011fi f\u0131r\u0131n\u0131n duvar\u0131na yap\u0131\u015ft\u0131r\u0131yor, \u00fc\u00e7 dakikada sonra ramazan pidesi boyutunda mis kokulu ekmek haz\u0131r. Tad\u0131 nas\u0131lm\u0131\u015f vay anas\u0131na, falan derken nerdeyse ki\u015fi ba\u015f\u0131 yar\u0131m ekmekten fazla yedik. Asl\u0131nda yeme\u011fe gidiyorduk, bu yemek \u00f6ncesi at\u0131\u015ft\u0131rmal\u0131k gibi oldu. Neyse, bence de\u011fdi, \u00e7ok g\u00fczeldi hani.<\/p>\n

    Ge\u00e7mi\u015fin \u00f6nemli yerlerinden Kokand \u015fehrindeyiz;<\/p>\n

    Di\u011fer Orta Asya Cumhuriyetlerinde oldu\u011fu gibi buralarda da \u00e7ok hanlar gelmi\u015f, b\u00fcy\u00fck \u00e7at\u0131\u015fmalar olmu\u015f. 18. yy. sonuna kadar 170 y\u0131l i\u00e7inde 21 farkl\u0131 hanl\u0131k buralarda h\u00fck\u00fcm s\u00fcrm\u00fc\u015f, bunlar\u0131n en uzun s\u00fcreli olan\u0131 Timur\u2019dan sonra 30 y\u0131l h\u00fck\u00fcmranl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 devam ettiren H\u00fcdayar Han olmu\u015f.\u00a0\u0130\u015fte bu hanl\u0131klar\u0131n ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131, buran\u0131n \u00f6nemli tarihi yap\u0131lar\u0131ndan olan, 7 b\u00fcy\u00fck kabul salonu, 114 odas\u0131 olan, b\u00fcy\u00fck bir alan \u00fczerine in\u015fa edilmi\u015f\u00a0O’rdo Saray\u0131\u2019nday\u0131z. Bu kadar \u00e7ok sava\u015f olunca b\u00fcy\u00fck k\u0131sm\u0131 tahrip olmu\u015f saray\u0131n, bizde ayakta kalan yerleri geziyoruz. Tavan i\u015f\u00e7ili\u011fi, boyama sanat\u0131 avlular\u0131yla ger\u00e7ekten g\u00fczel bir saray. Bug\u00fcn m\u00fcze olarak ziyarete a\u00e7\u0131k, o d\u00f6neme ait bulunan bir\u00e7ok e\u015fya da sergileniyor.<\/p>\n

    Cuma Camii\u2019ne gidiyoruz. \u0130slamiyet\u2019in yayg\u0131n oldu\u011fu bir\u00e7ok yerle\u015fim yerlerinde Cuma Camii vard\u0131r ve oran\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck camisidir, vakit namazlar\u0131 daha k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck olan di\u011fer cami ve mescitlerde k\u0131l\u0131n\u0131r. Sadece bayram namazlar\u0131 ve cuma namazlar\u0131 bu camilerde k\u0131l\u0131n\u0131r, di\u011fer zamanlar kapal\u0131d\u0131r. Asl\u0131nda, merkezi yerlerde olan cuma camileri bir anlamda toplanma yeridir. B\u00fct\u00fcn yak\u0131n yerle\u015fim yerlerinden insanlar cuma g\u00fcnleri burada toplan\u0131rlar hem ibadet hem birbirlerini g\u00f6rme f\u0131rsat\u0131 olur. Di\u011fer \u00f6nemli olan ise, y\u00f6netim taraf\u0131ndan yap\u0131lacak olan a\u00e7\u0131klamalar, yeni kararlar buradan duyurulur. Yani bir anlamda genel toplanma ve bilgilenme yeridir. Fergana Vadisi\u2019nin en b\u00fcy\u00fck cuma camisi de buras\u0131. Kocaman avlu i\u00e7inde b\u00fcy\u00fck bir minare ve 98 ah\u015fap s\u00fctunlu bir cami.\u00a0Geleneksel el i\u015f\u00e7ili\u011fi ile yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f ah\u015fap s\u00fctunlar, boyama ve el sanatlar\u0131n\u0131n oldu\u011fu cami halen cuma g\u00fcnleri aktif olarak kullan\u0131l\u0131yor.\u00a0Orta Asya co\u011frafyas\u0131nda minareler camiye biti\u015fik de\u011fil ayr\u0131 yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015flard\u0131r.<\/p>\n

    Fergana vilayeti i\u00e7inde, Fergana \u015fehrine gidiyoruz, K\u0131rg\u0131zistan s\u0131n\u0131r\u0131na \u00e7ok yak\u0131n b\u00f6lge, b\u00f6yle olunca s\u0131n\u0131r\u0131n bu taraf\u0131nda epey K\u0131rg\u0131z vatanda\u015f\u0131 ya\u015f\u0131yor.\u00a0Yolumuzun \u00fczerinde bir K\u0131rg\u0131z evine u\u011framak istedik. Geleneksel hal\u0131c\u0131k yap\u0131yorlar, babadan o\u011fula, anadan k\u0131za ge\u00e7en gelenekler.<\/p>\n

    **<\/p>\n

    Bir ba\u015fka \u00f6nemli yerlerden biri de \u00f6nemli Margilon \u015fehri.<\/p>\n

    \u0130pek dokuma merkezlerinden olan Margilon\u2019da \u015fehir tan\u0131ma turlar\u0131, ge\u00e7erken g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm\u00fcz bir ipek ma\u011fazas\u0131na giriyoruz, \u00d6zbek ekonomisine katk\u0131da bulunma \u00e7abas\u0131 i\u00e7indeyiz! Bir g\u00f6z atal\u0131m diye girdik, iki saat s\u00fcrd\u00fc g\u00f6z atma i\u015flemi. Buras\u0131 \u00d6zbekistan\u2019da ipek b\u00f6ce\u011fi yeti\u015ftirmenin yani ipek\u00e7ili\u011fin ba\u015flad\u0131\u011f\u0131 yer. \u00d6\u011frendik,\u00a0T\u00fcrk firmas\u0131 burada lokum ve baklava imal ediyor ve de epey me\u015fhurmu\u015f, konu olunca davet ald\u0131k, biz de icabet ettik, ikramlar\u0131n\u0131 yedik. Gayet de g\u00fczel, yok sat\u0131yor,\u00a0bravo do\u011frusu, kolay i\u015f de\u011fil.<\/p>\n

    Ki\u015fton \u015fehri de \u00e7\u00f6mlek\u00e7ilikte iyiymi\u015f, oray\u0131 da ziyaret ediyoruz. Son g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcz, program tamamlan\u0131nca \u015fehir \u015fehir dola\u015f\u0131yoruz. Ak\u015fam trenle Ta\u015fkent\u2019e gidece\u011fiz sonra da eve d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f heyecan\u0131.<\/p>\n

    **<\/p>\n

    \u00d6zbekistan\u2019\u0131n k\u0131sa ge\u00e7mi\u015fine bakarsak;<\/p>\n

    \u00dclke tarih\u00ee \u00f6nemi ve stratejik konumu nedeniyle zengin bir k\u00fclt\u00fcrel mirasa sahiptir. 19. y\u00fczy\u0131lda Orta Asya Rus \u0130mparatorlu\u011fu’nun kontrol\u00fcne ge\u00e7er ve Ta\u015fkent bu d\u00f6nemde Rus T\u00fcrkistan\u2019\u0131n\u0131n ba\u015fkenti olur. 1924’te Sovyetler Birli\u011fi b\u00f6lgeyi kontrol\u00fcne al\u0131r ve \u00d6zbekistan Sovyet Sosyalist Cumhuriyeti kurulur. Sovyetler Birli\u011fi’nin da\u011f\u0131lmas\u0131n\u0131n ard\u0131ndan 1991’de \u00d6zbekistan ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131z Cumhuriyetini ilan eder.<\/p>\n

    \u00d6zbekistan d\u00fcnyan\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck pamuk ihracat\u00e7\u0131lar\u0131ndan biridir. Sovyet D\u00f6nemi’nden kalan dev enerji \u00fcretim tesisleri ve do\u011fal gaz kaynaklar\u0131 \u00fclkenin Orta Asya’daki en b\u00fcy\u00fck elektrik \u00fcreticisi olmas\u0131n\u0131 sa\u011flam\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. \u00dclkenin \u00fc\u00e7te ikisi bozk\u0131r ve kurak alanlardan olu\u015fmaktad\u0131r. Alt\u0131n ve do\u011falgaz rezervleriyle \u00fcnl\u00fc K\u0131z\u0131lkum \u00c7\u00f6l\u00fc \u00fclke s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131 i\u00e7indedir.<\/p>\n

    \u00d6zbekistan\u2019\u0131n ana ihra\u00e7 \u00fcr\u00fcnleri pamuk, tekstil ara mamul ve tekstil mamulleri, petrol, do\u011falgaz, g\u0131da \u00fcr\u00fcnleri, k\u0131ymetli metaller ve kimyasal \u00fcr\u00fcnlerdir. Ana ithal mallar\u0131 ise makine ve ekipmanlar\u0131, g\u0131da \u00fcr\u00fcnleri ve kimyasal \u00fcr\u00fcnlerdir. \u00d6zbekistan, hali haz\u0131rda d\u00fcnyan\u0131n be\u015finci b\u00fcy\u00fck pamuk \u00fcreticisi ve ikinci b\u00fcy\u00fck pamuk ihracat\u00e7\u0131s\u0131d\u0131r. Halk aras\u0131nda \u201cbeyaz alt\u0131n\u201d denilen pamuk, maden kaynaklar\u0131 ve petrol ile birlikte ekonominin temel ta\u015flar\u0131ndand\u0131r.<\/p>\n

    \u00d6zbekistan\u2019da, Semerkant, \u015eehr-i Sabz, Buhara, Hiva \u0130\u00e7 Kale Unesco D\u00fcnya Miras\u0131 Listesinde olan yerler, buralar\u0131 olabildi\u011fince gezdik, g\u00f6rd\u00fcklerimi, \u00f6\u011frendiklerimi sizlerle payla\u015ft\u0131m.<\/p>\n

    Sevgilerimle<\/p>\n

    Hayrettin Ka\u011fn\u0131c\u0131<\/p>\n

    Ekim 2021<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

    \u00d6ZBEK\u0130STAN CUMHUR\u0130YET\u0130 \u00d6zbekistan\u2019\u0131n co\u011frafi durumunu yani haritadaki yerini biliyoruz ama gene de k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir hat\u0131rlatma ile ba\u015flayal\u0131m; Kuzeyde Kazakistan, kuzeydo\u011fuda K\u0131rg\u0131zistan, g\u00fcneydo\u011fuda Tacikistan, g\u00fcneyde Afganistan ve g\u00fcneybat\u0131da T\u00fcrkmenistan ile kom\u015fu olan yedi ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131z T\u00fcrk devletinden biridir. Resmi dili T\u00fcrk dillerinden Uygur grubuna ait \u00d6zbek\u00e7edir ve n\u00fcfusun %74’\u00fc bu dili konu\u015fur. 2002 y\u0131l\u0131ndan itibaren Kiril alfabesinden […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":13861,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[13],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-13856","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-gezi-notlari"],"yoast_head":"\n\u00d6zbekistan 2021 - Hayrettin Ka\u011fn\u0131c\u0131 Resmi Web Sitesi<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/hayrettinkagnici.com\/tr\/?p=13856\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"tr_TR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"\u00d6zbekistan 2021 - Hayrettin Ka\u011fn\u0131c\u0131 Resmi Web Sitesi\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"\u00d6ZBEK\u0130STAN CUMHUR\u0130YET\u0130 \u00d6zbekistan\u2019\u0131n co\u011frafi durumunu yani haritadaki yerini biliyoruz ama gene de k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir hat\u0131rlatma ile ba\u015flayal\u0131m; Kuzeyde Kazakistan, kuzeydo\u011fuda K\u0131rg\u0131zistan, g\u00fcneydo\u011fuda Tacikistan, g\u00fcneyde Afganistan ve g\u00fcneybat\u0131da T\u00fcrkmenistan ile kom\u015fu olan yedi ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131z T\u00fcrk devletinden biridir. 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